Adam W

Summer's here, and this beautiful set of shiny wheels is still sitting in my garage instead of being attached to someones car and sparkling in the sunshine. BUMP!

This is sold, just got collected, cheers for the joyride mate

Sorry Paul, someone beat you to it but if the sale doesn't go through you are second in line.

Gauges now sold and paid for, thanks for all the interest guys!

Greddy electronic EGT and boost gauges with peak hold and warning. These come with the sensors, the cabling and the box of electronics. 60mm diameter, black faces with green illumination to match the standard Supra dashboard. They have a button you can press to make the display the peak value reached since you last reset it, and a red LED that flashes a warning when a user-adjustable level is reached. Full working order, these cost £130 each when new, you can have the pair for £100 All these parts are in North Herts, but can be posted if neccessary. Recorded post will be about £7 on these I think.

I have a Coolingmist methanol/water injection kit for sale. I bougyht it for my supra, and by the time it was delivered I had time to use it once (one tank of 50% methanol) and then the winter set in and I put the car in storage. This is the kit I bought, mine has a 500cc/min nozzle fitted. http://www.coolingmist.com/detailmain.aspx?pid=250PSIStandardTM I paid $360 for it, plus $40 shipping, plus VAT (gits!). It has all the bits and pieces you need to install it, piping, check valve, straps, instructions, you will just need basic electrical connectors and away you go. (Only three wires to hook up I think!) I'm asking £150 for it and I reckon it would be about £11 to post it recorded delivery (first class). If you can come and collect this week, (from Letchworth, Hertfordshire) I will throw in a 25 litre drum of pure methanol at no extra charge. (Can't post the meth, sorry!)

I've changed the host of that picture to photobucket (like all the others) now, thatnks for the heads up.

Gaz - very funny, hadn't spotted that! James - not sure what you mean, I just clicked on it and got . . . a bigger picture of the car? If there's a problem I will rehost the image.

Hi dudes, I am back from the dead to flog a set of wheels (Don't worry, I have signed up and paid my dues!) These are a full set of UK 17" alloys which I bought off Terminator years ago. I then spent a whole lot of money getting them mirror polished, and bought matching centre caps from the USA to go with them. The fronts are fitted with 235 S02PPs, and the rears are fitted with 255 Eagle F1GSD3's. (I can't remember the profiles but they are the stock MkIV sizes.) Some of the best road tyres you can get for the Supra, and these tyres have done less than 1000 miles. All four still have masses of tread remaining, not rounded off on the edges or anything. There must be four hundred quids worth of rubber on these wheels! The wheels are straight and easy to balance with no buckling or anything. The polished finish is very easy to maintain, they can be washed just like a normal wheel when you wash the car and then polished every couple of months or so to keep the shine up - it takes me about 45 mins to do all four by hand. No worries about flaking etc like you get with chrome wheels. Would prefer cash-on-collection on these, (I'm in Letchworth, Herts, postcode is SG6) but I can accept paypal if you want to arrange a courier and pay the 4% fee. I might also be able to deliver within a 40mile radius. £350 for a quick sale Heres a piccie on my car (changed image host so no surprises!)

Nice work Alex, just spotted this. Good to see you back in a proper car!

I do a 70 mile round trip to work which is a complete hoot in the supra, and pretty dull in the diesel shitter. I can get two weeks commuting out of a full tank in the mondeo though, and two days out of a full tank in the supra The open wastegate sounds sooooo good I just can't keep my foot off the floor

It will interpolate between sites but it seems to get confused at idle pretty easily, probably because the pulsewidths are so tiny. If the MAP sensor is not what it's supposed to be then that would definitely explain the problem! Have they given you a 5 bar sensor instead?

Tony, I'll try and have a look at the maps tonight (no AEM software on this machine) but it sounds a bit odd. Do the two sensors read the same load when the engine is idling, or has it moved to a different load site? Where are the "crosshairs" sitting that tell you how close to the center of the loadsite you are? I had similar problems on my cal when I rescaled the load axis and the idle was sitting on the border of two cells and bouncing between them. What happens if you try and drive the car? Is this an idle only problem or does the car run badly when you try and drive it as well?

I ran around with no cats, silencer anything, just an open pipe for over a year. Bloody noisy but never ever got pulled or had MOT trouble.

That whole thing sounds completely fantastic, I'm sure the police escort will make the convoys to Bolney, Billing etc look silly in comparison

Interesting question! I don't think you need to worry about the valves closing, I thought about upgrading the valve springs on mine but when you look at the surface area of the valves and the standard spring pressures, it became a non-issue in my case as I am keeping the standard rev limit. Whoever said that revs kill engines much quicker than boost was dead right, I think the real issue is the heat build up. The peak cylinder pressure will (I think . . .) be pretty much the same in your examples, although they will occur at different points in the rev range. I think peak cylinder pressure is directly related to torque, which obviously gives you your horsepower figure through a factor of rpm. If you ran the 30psi engine on higher octane fuel than the 20psi engine you could conceivably use a very similar amount of ignition advance for both both boost levels, so it's possible you wouldn't have too much of a problem with high EGT's. The air going into the cylinder would start off hotter in the high boost engine though. A smaller compressor wheel making 30psi will generate more heat that a biggun at 20psi, even though they're flowing the smae amount of air. With good intercooling this effect is obviously going to get less pronounced, I don't know how significant it would be to the overall picture. Back pressure could also be a variable as well if the turbos have different sized exhaust housing or turbine wheels. So the short answer is "umm, I dunno".

What are you planing on *doing* at 30psi? The loads imposed by a ten second dragstrip blast or a 4th gear dyno run are way less than a track day or a full-boost top speed pull. What turbo are you running? That sort of boost on gasoline (even race fuel) is like running a blowtorch over your pistons, they get hotter and hotter until something gives (or you lift off). Detonation is a lot more dramatic, like hitting them really hard with a hammer, but both can cause problems. Not sure about the head lifting off, but peoples experience in the states suggest that it won't be a problem.

I would say . . . yeeeessss, but only for drag racing/dyno pulls where the heat doesn't build up in the engine too much. And you wouldn't expect 150,000 miles out of it either! You could quite easily blow up an engine hewn out of forged kryptonite at 10psi if you had rampant detonation; although a stock bottom end isn't going to be as strong as a built one, that strength difference is less important than the way it is tuned. Lots of octane, maybe water injection to try and keep the temperatures down, and a well tuned ignition map would be key. You will reach a certain point where the stock rods can't handle the horsepower, ie the compressive loads on them at each power stroke will be too great and they'll bend. That's not really a boost-related issue though, its to do with peak cylinder pressures, ie torque/horsepower.

Before I bought my turbo I spent a fair few hours looking at turbo compressor maps, working out my air requirements, all sorts of lovely sums In the end though, I bought one that the yanks recommended after I told them when I wanted to hit full boost. I know Chris is pulling a face at this point but there are enough Supras out there with upgraded turbo(s) to figure out which combinations work well with a good degree of accuracy. I checked the unit they recommended against my sums, it all looked sensible, and the turbo works beautifully on my engine. No surge problems at all, boost comes on right where I planned it.

I thought the Chertsey day WAS a saturday? Can someone confirm the date, this thread is so long now it's hard to sift through!

The limit will be how much boost you can run on pump fuel, not how much boost the turbo will handle. Is yours the 2.5 litre? I just put a big single on one of the 2.0L turbos (RB20), it was about twice that size (not kidding). Ended up being 1mm clearance between the inner wing and the compressor housing, god alone knows what his turbo lag will be like but the customer is always right

It is undergoing a continuing upgrade program I've put about 500 miles on it in the last month though in between spells of "improvement"

It will probably go the same way as the cosworths and the Mk3; prices drop way down, people buy them as cheap speed; they mod them with mega-miles without a thought for reliability, then they blow up, then they get scrapped because an engine rebuild is three times what the car cost to buy. But then good examples become rarer, prices go up, and they fall back into the hands of people with enough money to look after them properly

Sorry guys, only just finished on the car hence my no-show. Hope you didn't miss me too much

I'm trying to get my wiring loom put back together right at this moment, hopefully I will make it!