MC_Bob

Thanks Guys, The water pipe, are you talking about the rubber ones I guess? Always a bit sceptical about those, theyre nigh on impossible to alter once fitted!! :o Motor mounts are vibratechnics and in good nick. I'll do rear seal and cam covers. I dont think there is any head gasket fault, as on inspection most of the oil is quite low down. Ive noticed the front crank pulley has a crack in the rubber, is that a failure point? Will be removing to inspect the front crank seal regardless but I know theyre not cheap either. Cambelt isn't old but will do whilst its off.

Hi guys, Ive just pulled the motor (2JZGTE VVTI) to carry out some work, and mostly fix oil leaks that have plagued it since buying 5 years ago. I'll be doing valve cover and sump gasket, but theres so much on the engine its hard to trace. Ive seen front and rear crank seals are common places to leak? After pulling the trans there is wet on the rear seal, I assume this should be pretty much bone dry? I havent pulled front crank pulley yet to inspect the front of the engine. Im single turbo so that area is quite easy to check, and will be redoing the oil drain plumbing just to be sure. Any other reccomendations to do at the same time? Ill be doing the valve stem seals, so almost tempted to pull the head off..? All help appreciated!!

If you can get a bleed machined into the top that'll do. Ports on top will self bleed. Ports on side, hot in should be at the bottom, out at the top to self bleed.

The Aristo autobox is 12. I had a trigger wheel made up for the diff when went manual.

Hi guys, Anybody know where to get replacement bushing from? Its from a JZX so has the extended tripod shifter assembly. Thanks

Too many variables. Ultimate budget of 5-8k. But it would have to be a well setup for that if it still has no engine/trans/ecu etc.

Hello! Have done, too late!! Too many vultures have picked off the parts

Hi there, After, ideally, a shell registered as a turbo and manual. Must be a rolling, would like as much interior as possible. Does not need an engine, diff or trans, or ecu. Doesnt need wheels but would like it to have brakes and hubs etc. Ideally southern england but happy to travel for the right car. Thanks!

So are the subframes the same? I was wanting to buy an NA shell and drop all my gear into that. Cheers guys

Thanks buddy. Thats great! It is the furthest shifter you can get from toyota i think. although it does need reconditioning.. Since it all runs off syvecs I dont think the loom will be much of an issue either. Still cant find if engine mounts etc are the same.

Thanks mate, Do you know about the gearbox shifter assembly? I think mine is 4-6 inches farthar back than a normal r154. Are there much I need to worry about on certain supras? Like are the N/A ones kitted out with low spec rear brakes etc? I think the LS400 brakes should fit as the supras fit the aristo too.

Hi guys. Looking for a bit of advice. I currently have a good spec aristo, but Ive always wanted a supra. Ive had it for 5 years now, and will include a list of parts below. In my mind, can I buy a NA, auto Supra, and make it manual and single with my parts? Do I need to change the sump? This list I think definately all will bolt up? 2JZ GTE VVTI Vibratechnic engine mounts. HX35 Manifold Wastegate Syvecs S6 Stand alone management Big case Carbonetics diff 2way But then..: JZX90 MKII R154 Gearbox with extended shifter mount LS400 front brake setup Id really appreciate any help given. Nathan

Batteries float and take a while to show idle voltage. Its an alternator fault. It should regulate to max of 14-15v regardless of sensor wire.

Remember to check your breathers are working. When lamps cool they'll pull in moisture from the small porous points if the little filter thing is blocked.

People do it, realise it sounds gash, then refit resonators.

Without a pipe I think you'll get the exhaust gases scattering willy nilly. Not straight out. Which is why I'd channel it with a bit of pipe.. However, I have seen people do as you want before, just doesn't seem right.

Just put a bit of pipe on it. I'd want as much heat away from the valve and diaphragm as possible.

So fitting an R154 box that has a 3 pin VSS. Ground, power and signal output. Existing box has 2 pin VSS (abs sensor type) AC Signal. This : http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=126/category_id=311/home_id=59/mode=prod/prd126.htm May possibly do what I want, but ive been looking so long for something idk what I really need. That just has a single output but it does say calibrated AC signal output, but only one not two cables? Help..!

How comes you had to go standalone mate? Thanks,

Bump.

Bump.

Hi guys. Im an aristo driver having an r154 conversion from autobox. Ive searched but ive still got some questions I cant find the answer to. I know Ive gotta make the car think its in park or neutral to start, but im still not sure how I get my speedo signal from the box to the car, and also to make the car think its in drive so it doesnt cut power at 5k onwards. All help appreciated. Thanks

Lol, I shall look at the first opputunity I get. I had a quick search on ClubAristo but got more results here.. Confuzzled about the VVTI not needing it. I suppose I better get googling some more..

Ah, I thought it was definately needed once decatted otherwise the boost would rise uncontrollably. I will get under there, thanks for the quick response!!

Picked up a car couple weeks back. 2JZ-GTE VVTI Spec as far as im aware from seller..! Double Decat Pipe. 3" Catback. Never mentioned were Restrictor rings or fuel pumps. Boost gauge reads circa .8bar, car feels progressive to drive, not a BPU feel. There arent any FCDs anywhere, so assuming the decat pipe is in place, should I be looking for a restrictor ring in the downpipe? I thought they were 1 bar minimums? Thanks!