j.oe

I'll takte it. PMd

Not yet, will go for a dyno when i have installed my VVTi head

My favorite now is a billet converted S366, made by The Turbo Engineers. Base is a BWS366, but equipped with a 1.00 A/R T4 divided exhaust housing. TTE modifies the turbine wheel as well as they put in a billet 71 mm compressor wheel. The compressor housing totally was modified on their NC mill. The result is a 71 mm billet turbo with 1000 hp flow capacity that spools amazingly and makes 1 bar @ 3450 rpm only. On my heavily upgraded engine with 2 mm oversized valve seats and portet inlets it easily pulls 2 bar of boost up to 8500 rpm with a back pressure to boost rate of only 1.15:1 Makes the same torque @ 1.5 bar like a BL S366 @ 1.8 will do. The S366 w. 1.00 A/R T4 is available at Full-Race US. 71 mm conversion is approx. 700 GBP. Incerdible power and spool for an affordable turbo. Second pic shows the BL S366 wheel in comparison to the built in 71 mm billet wheel.

The kit shown wouldn't be my choice. It's a undivided exhaust system. With a divided exhaust housing and properly made manifold you will gain another 500 rpm of low end spool. Better watch out for a twin scroll kit.

Stock genuine Toyota oil pump, preferably a new one. Always remember: Those parts are up to 20 years worn out. I rised the oil pressure a little bit at mine. Simply add a M6 washer to the pressure regulating spring, that adds 0.5 to 1 bar tho the oil pressure. You find it by opening the hexagonal screw at the upper side. Be aware of the pre loaded spring, when you unbolt !

+1 Luc, exactly the same behaviour as mine. My BL upgraded S366 makes 0,15 bar @1900rpm. At 2300 yet it pulls lile a stock j-spec twin setup, with even more than that from 2600 up. At 3500 approx it feels like kicking in fully to the 1bar spring pressure i run at the moment. And there's no noticeable loss of torque even behind 8k. From 6k to 8k5 it flys like a 600cc motorcycle engine in high revs :-) Thanks to Paul Whiffin, he upgraded my S366 0.91A/R to the BL billet compressor. Great street turbo with lots of low end grunch along with incredible top end. Seeing that i'd never like to change to a bigger one while giving up 1000 rpm in low end response.

+1 Luc, exactly the same behaviour as mine. My BL upgraded S366 makes 0,15 bar @1900rpm. At 2300 yet it pulls lile a stock j-spec twin setup, with even more than that from 2600 up. At 3500 approx it feels like kicking in fully to the 1bar spring pressure i run at the moment. And there's no noticeable loss of torque even behind 8k. From 6k to 8k5 it flys like a 600cc motorcycle engine in high revs :-) Thanks to Paul Whiffin, he upgraded my S366 0.91A/R to the BL billet compressor. Great street turbo with lots of low end grunch along with incredible top end. Seeing that i'd never like to change to a bigger one while giving up 1000 rpm in low end response.

Hi Luc Really great results, my congrats too from south GER. I was very courious to see your dyno, because Paul upgraded my S366 .91A/R twinscroll to a BL compressor this year as well. At my cyl. head we enlarged the valve ducts by 2mm in diameter while keeping the stock valves. Then we ported the inlet and outlet ducts of my head and smoothened and curved all the edges along the ducts and inside the combustion chamber. In combination with my homemade power intake plenum with short runners, intake funnels and an 80 mm throttle body, the engine now revs up behind 6k rpm like a turbine :-) . I also upgraded to bc625 rods with arp rod bolts and head studs. My rev limit now is 8k5. So i'm very curious what numbers my engine pulls when i finished mapping it well to 2bar of boost. Are there any engine mods done to your setup yet, while you achieve amazing 750 hp at 1,5 bar only ? Jürgen, 40 km in the west of Munic

The problem should relate to the 1,1 mm gap those plugs originally have. Gap them to 0,6 mm and all will be fine. Had the same issue on mine.

They're known to be difficult to get them out. If too much force is applied, they brake and are trash. What i did: I pressed them out from the inner side of the wheel hub. Therefore i took a 12mm 1/4" nut, held it to the inner side of the sensor. Then i used a piece of metal i held to the nut's end long enough to reach 5 mm close to the opposite side of the hub. There i rhythmically and carefully leveraged with a flat screwdriver. It takes one or two minutes and the sensor starts moving an pops out without having been damaged. By no means you may try to turn them in their seat. If done so, they'll break. This method worked fine on two totally corroded j-spec wheel hubs.

Hi Paul Primarily there's no certain fwhp goal, however 800+ would'nt be bad too. And i know a billet upgraded S366 can do that. My head's inlets/outlets will be machined this march, whereby the stock valves will be kept. And i'll manufacture a higher flowing inlet manifold by myself + 80 mm thbdy. Therefor i'd like to add some flow capacity to my turbo as well. So the actual consideration is giving an upgrade to my S366 or better spending the money for a new and slightly bigger one (and selling mine). But i don't want to give up conspicuous low end response, i'd hate a turbo that doesn't kick in below 4500 or 5000. Cheers Jürgen

I'm considering wether to upgrade my BW S366 91/80 .91 A/R by a billet comp. wheel or better to buy a new billet S372. So has anybody here an idea how much later a S372 1.10 A/R or 1.00 A/R will spool up compared to my S366. Now the S366 makes 1bar@3400. Would hate to loose 1k rpm or more in spool. Any information appreciated. Cheers Jürgen

There only are 3"and 3,5" available regularly. What kind of v-band-junction do you need those for ? An option would be to try a 3,5", they're 15 GBP only.

For the V160 Gearbox Castrol Transmax Z should be fine. Be careful with the gearbox oil. Only a few oil types mix well with the gb internals. Jürgen

Hi Tim I also already did so. But first it's hard to melt a weld bed to the end of a thin cross section. And although @ my tuned diesel car the hoses always slipped of, 'til i took a hammer and forged a flange to each end rising 3mm at least. Cheers Jürgen