V8KILR

I thought the UK Spec 6spd TT diff is the B03D diff, which is the 3.266 ratio, the same as Jap spec? The USA 6spd TT is 3.133 ratio.

Here's a 12 page 1996 Supra options brochure which you may find of interest. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/options1996.htm

Worldwide yes, but a very different story for the UK spec. For the 673 production RHD Europe Supra, 3 were 5 speed NA (probably special order), 209 were 6 speed TT and 461 were automatic TT.

Your chart just needs the 29 pre-production cars made in 1992 added to it to get the correct total of 45,230 cars. That shouldn't spoil the nice shape of the graph too much.

There were 673 production RHD Europe spec Supras (aka UK Spec) made, with 3 others that are unknown if LHD or RHD. There were also 10 pre-production Europe spec that are unknown if LHD or RHD. http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/specs.htm#PRODUCTION I have details on each car if anyone is interested in year, transmission or color breakdowns.

Unfortunately there is no plug-in for the VVTi Supra's. However, all of the wire-in Link G4+ range can run the VVTi.

The AdrenalinR mufflers allow for big power and are also very quiet. I run a 3.5" setup with 760whp and a mate runs a 4.0" setup with similar power. Both are very quiet. Run the biggest AdrenalinR mufflers that will fit like I did. http://www.adrenalinr.com/products.php?pCategory=mufflers

Here's my race against a stock 2008 GTR. Wasted him off the line using MT ET Streets.

There were 10 pre-production EUROPE spec Supras made, which the UK spec is part of. Not sure how many would be RHD, but based on EUROPE model production percentages, probably around 4 of them are RHD (aka UK spec).

I also have the same combo and I find it to be a great setup for road and the track.

The reason I know they do crack is that mine did so between the front head bolt hole and the closest water jacket hole. I swapped to another block, but the block was welded up and used in a lower power setup with no issues. Might have been okay for me, but I didn't want to take the chance. Yours may just be lifting the head, so it may be time for bigger and/or stronger head studs, unless Titan studs are already the best you can get?

Yes, blocks do crack. Check for cracks around water holes in the block once head removed.

If that's not the issue, then check for a dragging clutch as that can make reverse hard to engage and will eventually wear out all your synchros.

If you want to run a single turbo, the best functionality (but highest cost) is provided by the wire-in Link ECUs. In order of best functionality for the wire in ones are: Thunder, Fury, G4+, G4 However, the PNP will work out cheaper after all labour charges, it is simpler to install and can easily be removed and changed back to the stock ECU if selling the car. When I bought mine the best wire-in was the G4. Personally I will be upgrading from my Link PNP to a Thunder at some stage, but only because I want the high speed ABS capable sensors it has for setting up traction control. The PNP does everything else I need for the street and the drag strip.

Regarding traction control, you can just use frequency dividers (use divide by 4) to get ABS signal to a usable range for Link ECUs other then the Thunder, which has high speed sensors. Way easier then trying to change the tooth count of the ABS.

With my PNP Link ECU, I use the external Knock Link unit with the factory knock sensors. Without the external knock unit I think you can just log knock (don't quote me), but not use it to limit the engine which mine can do. I have fuel pressure limiting the engine. It uses a digital fuel pressure signal and a spare ECU map to limit the engine, if fuel pressure drops too low. I have staged fuel pumps as well with second one kicking in at 15 psi boost. You could also do the same with oil pressure as well. If you swap to a 2 wire ISCV, you can free up at least 2 inputs (outputs?) as the mkiv ISCV uses 4 wires. There is no traction control with the Link PNP, you would need the Fury or Thunder (better option as has high speed sensors that can be used with ABS without needing a signal divider). The Link PNP does not have VE tuning, but that is available on some later model Link ECU's. e.g. G4+, Fury, Thunder

Mine has low fuel pressure protection, over-boost protection and knock sensor protection. I could also set up low oil pressure protection if I wanted to, but have not done so yet.

It is based on the Storm. I use one of these in my Supra and it does a great job. Fine for a street car or low budget racer.

I have used the Link plugin ECU (no wiring needed) for some time now. It's a very good ECU, but does not run the sequential turbos. The two latest Link ECUs are awesome. These are the Link Fury and the Link Thunder. I'll be upgrading to the Link Thunder this year as it can do ABS sensor based traction control as well as all the other bells and whistles.

These two links have lots of mk4 Supra manuals available for download. http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/18643-supra-manuals-diagrams-and-ecu-pinouts/ http://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/75714-exclusive-jdm-supra-jza80-mkiv-wiring-diagrams/

I run the 3.538 diff with my V161 gearbox. I did it to get better acceleration with the 1/8th and 1/4 mile racing I do. As the ratio difference is only 8.3%, the fuel economy does not change much but theoretically gives me 8.3% more torque at the wheels. I'm happy with the 3.538 ratio and have no plans to change back to my 3.266 diff any time soon.

All the knowledgeable sources I have read say this: Forged crank & rods. Pistons are high silicon cast (hypereutectic).

The stock crank has been used up to 2000 bhp in the NZ Rayglass Celica drag car (low 6 sec 1/4 mile) so it is extremely strong, whatever it is made from. Edit: I'm pretty sure the crank is forged.

The TRD internals are discontinued worldwide. There may be a few sitting on shelves somewhere so good luck finding one.

Good plan.