Polo

Iv blown 4 r154s to bits this year!!! And keep shattering the thrust washers!! IM getting sick or changing the damn things lol. Also the 6spd ratios will be much better suited to my diff ratio. Bumping this again guys as the winter is here and i want to crack on with the winter build.

Was missing some thing! Got it, cheers.

I don't have a vin number to go by. I'm doing a manual conversion on a aristo, they don't have a v160 as stock lol. Unless I'm missing some thing on that site?

Hi guys, need a bit of help with part numbers. I only have a phone to use Internet at the mo or I'd try a little harder to find them. I need the part numbers for the following two parts: -Front crank oil seal -clutch release bearing C clip. (the one that holds the bearing to the carrier, not the one that holds the bearing in the pressure plate. For 2jzgte 6spd v160. If not part numbers, can some one pm me a vin and model number of a Uk car as Toyota are less than helpful! Thanks Paul

mate, do you relise how many more updates there wer after this 5 pages!! other forums wer up to 25 pages lol. When i get a tad more time il sort some thing out made 607hp and 615ftlb bty, thats at only 1.6bar boost and 6200rpm limit. Other wise look here http://www.driftworks.com/forum/drift-car-projects-builds/124180-team-falken-uk-650hp-v35-skyline-g35.html

wah wo wah!!! just paid up for the 20 years!!! Sorry i didnt do it sooner guys, but i ran out of time to update this!!! Car was finished on time and iv been using it since april every other week!! Im guessing those at japfest would have seen it??

Aftert he following bits, no masive rush, its for my competition drift car so its for the winter build. Need the following: V160 gearbox Slave cylinder, propshaft and gear stick to suit Long shot but centre hub to suit v160 and OSgiken tripple plate clutch Cams: ideally 264 in and ex with highest lift poss, but open to what you have, In and Ex cam pulleys, Uprated valve springs and retainers. Willing to PX stock twin turbos and/or R154 gearboxs.

Little update Pulled all the front suspension off to seam weld and clean the inner wings After some cleaning, wire brush, rags and thinners Then a coat of white stone chip

Cheers Ash. Just thoght id post up that i orderd the turbo today Its a Garrett 35r, 1.06 t4 exhaust with 86mm billit HTA comp wheel and WRC bearing case, not the bigest but should be very responsive and crack the 650hp mark

Thanks for the comments Could a mod please change the name of the thread to "Team Falken UK 650hp V35 Skyline (G35) " bit of an update, not got alot done this week, lost a bit of motivasion tbh!! Parts arived over the week 1000cc bosch injectors and pig tails Mocal 24 row engine oil cooler with -12 fittings Mocal sandwich plate with -12 fittings 13 row cooler for gearbox cooling system, iv also got a remote filter and big Mocal oil pump for the system. low mile s14 diff cooler to be used to cool power steering fluid And iv got on with some of the seam welding, the welding its self takes hardly any time, its the cleaning the paint and sealer that takes ageees!! Also had time between jobs in the day to trim the dash and see how it fits around the dash

Thanks guys!! Bit of an update!!! Sound proofing is finaly out and most the prep for seam welding done!!!! you think an s14 is bad!! try one of these!! Iv spent 4-5 nights, my bro and my girlfriend a day each and a mate 2 hole days!!!! Got some good second hand Cobra seats and some new rails, and made some cross rails to hold the seat in, still need to do the other side, but that does not need to be in any particular posision, Then got on with some of the seam welding and sealing some of the un-needed holes in the bulk head,

Not really alot to update, Seing as its and auto shell and its going to be manual, a little work is needed in this area. I managed to get a manual brake and clutch pedal from some one on another forum, but there was no where to really mount it like on s-bodies, also, i could not find a slave for a 350gt or z so im using an s14 one, so................. Holes line up but itl put the cylinder on the piss, Welded in a spreader plate as the bulk head is soo flexable welded in some studs to make fitting easier In the car Managed to pic up this accusump and a load of -12 fittings for pennies, i done the sums and new this lot is very close to £1k!!!! then got on with getting the shite proofing out!!!

Cheers. Guys, wondering if any of you have got a slave cylinder and release bearing carrier for sale? If not where can i get one?? Cheers

Little update, Finished the engine and gearbox mounts

Iphone 4 here and its fine

Been at it again today, got the sump prety much finished! Left on of the sides open until iv made the new pick up, to make it easier. Also need to do a leak test on it once the welding is finished. Phase two, make it hold 5ltrs again, So i got the engine back out to sort the trany tunnel, slight bodding needed to clear the bellhousing. Thats as far as i got! My angle grinder died so need a new one of them befor i continue, next it to trianglate the engine and gear box mounts. Then get the rest of the sound proofing out and start the seam welding.

etc etc Gearbox mount Neither the engine or gearbox mounts are finished yet, just fitted for now until iv made the sump, then once i take the motor back out to do the rest of the shell prep il finish the bracing on the mounts. Started to make the sump, mesured it takes 5ltrs, so once im done i want it to hold as close to that as poss again.

Ok, time for an update, cast is off my arm now and feels loads better so its full steam ahead!!! So got the car int he back of the workshop jacked up and sat level. Front wings off ready for seam welding Next was to get the right bellhousing on the box, get the box mounted to the motor and get the motor in the final posision! This took a good few maybe 4 hours to get right!! Why it took so long was due to having to take in to account clearance on clutch master, steering colomn, sump, subframe, inlet and exhast manifolds. Managed to get it quite far back, front pulley is flush with the front of the front wheels and the ARB (note back on the 1st few pages this is where the vq35 sat too. And that 3 cylinders shorter) The bigest prob was the sump, this is how its going to sit, so im having to prety much make a new sump and modifie the pick up. Got some steel bits from MrSteveo to make the mounts So drilled a hole in the hoky pucks and got some washers to suite

Yes mate, and what ever else i can stretch to. In 2009 i managed to compete in 4 differant championships, not all rounds of every one but still, i competed 17 times that year, all over europe! This year iv had such a crap year with crash's, fuel pumps dying, starting my own business and braking my Scaphoid bone, i only managed 5-6 comps and one demo in Germany.

Hi, It because of the way the tyre is constructed, most directional tyres tend to delaminate when drifting. If you run them the "correct" way if they delaminate they peel from the centre out. Where as if you run them the "rong" way they dont and it reduces delamination drematicly! The best way to get into it is get any car thats rear wheel drive that your not worried about damaging, a bmw E36 is a good base as cheap and they drift well. Dont use your supra if your worried about the paint work. There are a few drift supras about but to get them up to a good competition standard alot of work is needed, infact the two high end supras i know of both have nissan steering racks in. S13 and s14 are your best bet thogh, they both drift just aswell, your mates must have just had better setup than your s13. S13 with out rust is hard to find these days unless you get an import, you get and extra bonus then as they come with the sr20det, which is a much better engine than the UKs13, but youl pay the price for one of these. You can pick up a half decent s14 with basic mods for £1.5k these days. The sr20det is and extreamly reliable engine, just as much as the JZ's, people prefer the JZ's due to the torque and high power on farly stock engines. Iv ran an sr for the last 6 years, 4 of them years over 400hp and the last year 500hp, out of a 2ltr thats prety impresive and was super reliable. A stock sr will cope with 400hp no problems, but you wont need any more than 300hp while your learning. Id get a good year of practice days under your belt befor you try to go for competition.

Hi, It because of the way the tyre is constructed, most directional tyres tend to delaminate when drifting. If you run them the "correct" way if they delaminate they peel from the centre out. Where as if you run them the "rong" way they dont and it reduces delamination drematicly! The best way to get into it is get any car thats rear wheel drive that your not worried about damaging, a bmw E36 is a good base as cheap and they drift well. Dont use your supra if your worried about the paint work. There are a few drift supras about but to get them up to a good competition standard alot of work is needed, infact the two high end supras i know of both have nissan steering racks in. S13 and s14 are your best bet thogh, they both drift just aswell, your mates must have just had better setup than your s13. S13 with out rust is hard to find these days unless you get an import, you get and extra bonus then as they come with the sr20det, which is a much better engine than the UKs13, but youl pay the price for one of these. You can pick up a half decent s14 with basic mods for £1.5k these days. The sr20det is and extreamly reliable engine, just as much as the JZ's, people prefer the JZ's due to the torque and high power on farly stock engines. Iv ran an sr for the last 6 years, 4 of them years over 400hp and the last year 500hp, out of a 2ltr thats prety impresive and was super reliable. A stock sr will cope with 400hp no problems, but you wont need any more than 300hp while your learning. Id get a good year of practice days under your belt befor you try to go for competition.

Will he make me a custom length? for my 2jz powered G35?

We run them backwards for a reason you will notice most drift cars using directional tyres run them in reverse Not for the same reason the Katerham cup run them backwards on the front. lol

Sorry iv not updated this, iv been away and so has the car having the cage done. Not alot other than the cage, nothing interesting really, just stripping sound proofing!!! Cars back from having cage fitted by Nickson Motorsport!

No chance on this earth!! To show standard you need £30-40k on most Jap cars to build, you wont sell any over £20k. Only way iv made profit from building cars is A) if iv been paid to do so or B) had loads of parts in stock that have owed me nothing from cars iv broke, parts iv swapped or collected. Still once you take in to the equasion how many hours you spend doing the job, its not really much of a profit, just paying for your hours and getting rid of a pile of bits.