Yakky

Enrichen the "Injector adjustment" - because the "acceleration injectors" maps are for TP-in, dumping a little extra during throttle position delta. Auto-tune is a fuelsaver/dynotime saver when setting up a "base" map for then tweaking. There's little hope that your global adjustments will be right for all load points. Without auto-tune, you'd be brave to map on public roads from scratch - know what I'm meaning?

999 and 999 will be same as 0 and 0. Global zero effect. Tuner is probably using maps only to tune - which is fine if maps are good. Be careful using his maps and then changing to 440-550 global resize. The injector Before and After is just an educated guess to start tuning from (when used). Use Emanage "Auto-tune" for good results like others. Look it up if you don't know what I mean. In regard to lag - this will be very sensitive at idle conditions as Ricky moots. If the injectors are OEM, then look them up. It won't make much difference at boost though unless crazy values. Lag left at zero-zero will mean no effect - quite safe usually if injectors are similar lag.

Hey Dan Does she drive a white GT4?

Fuel consumption over a tank worth is mostly closed loop, especially if you drive carefully. Open-loop (at full throttle) is where *your* car is over-fueling. Ask your dyno operator on how to sort out the fueling. If that dyno chart was from just one run, then it could have been just random, you need a few runs to see what the ECU is doing - especially if you reset the ECU recently.

1JZ vvti's aren't easy to find either!

That's because less than 10 is off the scale for most sensors. You're running pig rich.

Dangerously rich AFR at under 10, you must have seen alot of black smoke sucked up by the extractors!

Are you going to do anything about the high compression ratio on the 1JZ VVT-i that puts off people going over 1.1 bar or more..

Agree with Drew there. Ctek are great for the cheapies (under 100 quid) from direct experience but they won't charge a "dead battery" every time - voltage less than 10.8 or so volts. Try an old fashioned big charger to get something in the dead one, and then later switch over to a budget Ctek. Then they're great. Else a dead battery will get you stuck in Stage 2 or Stage 3.. or whatever and after 8 hours the Ctek unit gives up.

Everyone's advice above applies - it's all good. One hour of technician time at most - maybe bite the bullet?

Torque would be amazing as the torque multiplicative effect is in play while not locked up on this dyno print. More torque but less efficient - so lower power.

Kaan - don't confuse lockup with stall mate. Your solenoid as Ryan said for mechnical lockup may not be firing, or there may be a problem with the line pressure control solenoid (affects whole system). You need to get someone to check the output of the lockup solenoid from the ECU, start there as Nero says. Check the pin-out, and get a multimeter on there. Start there because at least you'll know if the ECU thinks it is ok to lockup the TC. There is also a temp sensor on the gearbox that could be not fitted/connected or not reading right - presumably used to avoid lockup when cold to warmup the box as slipping will generate heat, desirable when cold.

Big money from Toyota, and not sure but they might not extra for the magnetic clutch - which makes it sound fancy but it's not. Guessing but over 500 quid new. Second hand is cheap because you're taking a punt that it's a good unit. If it's not then your system will swarf with bits of A/C pump piston and then worse, the next compressor you try will chew up also, so your system must be flushed and the swarf filter replaced (if Toyota's have one, VW's do - it's just a pipe). When you buy one, look for one where the wheel freely moves, and with no/little corrosion. Do not buy from ebay - buy from someone on Forum maybe a trader here, and ask them to swap it if it's a dodgy one. Remember that your system needs checking for swarf BEFORE you fit the 2nd-hand unit.

System is swarfed - full of bits of metal. There should be a swarf filter somewhere in one of the pipes. Find a decent mechanic to sort - they'll know and charge you for the pipe and a system flush.

Brake fluid - sometimes only does it under acceleration if it's close.

Superchip is an advance on the timing on most cars. It's an inline box on the wiring, and pretty obvious. It's a fag packet sized design. It will be between the ECU and the engine, probably where described under the passenger side carpet. Pull the box. It's probably causing a little bit of knock and knock sensors are pulling timing. These boxes are BAD news - worthless junk. Remove and reconnect wiring. Do at least this first before blaming mechanical VSV etc - return to stock.

This is quite a question. Have you googled around for all the different gauges and seen what others are saying? It's worth doing first. A part answer to your question is that the reliability that they don't produce error codes - then yes AEM is a good example and uses the older Bosch sensor. Choose the placement of the sensor well, and you'll want to log the AFR's as the raw output on the gauge is rapid. Smoothing is not an option, it must be done.

Excellent thread - one the best read here. Ian - "And yes, the duration can get confused when you are running 100% duty" 100% duty makes Ultimate go 100% regardless of offsets in tables. Your quote above is spot on - is this what you meant? thank you for all input to this valuable thread.

Have you altered the voltage or the control of the voltage to the fuel pump from 9v to 12 during crank? the "12v rewire". Maybe whoever fitted the Walbro has done this because they are rated to run 12v.

Water temp sensor will do bad startup fuelling if faulty at that range - makes big difference. It will be in warm-up until just below 80degrees. postscript - yes it sounds like it's flicking between warmup and full temp at that 77 point. Try new radcap with higher pressure slightly and new water temp sensor is money, but won't hurt. Not sure what you mean by "getting hot on the dyno"... the water?? It shouldn't barely creep above full temp a few degrees if that.

Ian, this doesn't explain why when "capped" at 4.2 volts, we still see boost cut, even 4.1 as mentioned. There is no voltage above 4.1 (say) in the logs sent to the ECU. The ECU is not seeing over 4.1 volts, unless the Emanage is not capping voltage correctly, or perhaps the stock ecu extrapolating values (it's only internal filtering on the flickery fluctuating signal) when it see closes to fuel cut.

I see exactly the same on mine, that the boost cut needs to be lowered that some say - some say 4.1v, some 4.2v. In the logs, it appears to be due to the rapid flickering of the stock MAP sensor above 10psi - the trace is terrible. At high rpm, it's even worse due to inlet pressure pulses, so then boost cut earlier than expected. I appreciate and understand that there is a "filter" to avoid the Tp seeing the pressure fluctuations, however..... Also what extra pressure sensor are you using? I found copy sensors (non-Greddy) to be out by over 1psi. Don't forget to retard timing above the equiv of 4 volts cap. Have you calculated what PSI that is? Sounds quite low, maybe 10psi at a guess right now.

What is your timing doing? don't retard too much at the 6500-7000 cell. Your fuelling is very difficult to tune at this rpm, as the wideband readings are not quick enuff - after all, where is your wideband sensor? half way down the exhaust.. What are your base injector scalings? original and after injectors? have you adjusted the Tp-in, the Throttle accel map?

Do you have a hardpipe to the throttle body? or stock rubber pipe? how have you fitted the sensor? What type of sensor have you used? To measure airflow it usually wil be short steel shaft with the actual thermocouple inside.

Are you getting inlet temps from stock sensor? (which is post-intercooler and used by ECU) You should be seeing 30-40 under boost (1.2 bar with larger turbo's - that's around 500bhp), even sustained and repeated - nothing like 50 unless you idle in traffic with an aftermarket intake. No problem anyway after 30 secs of moving.