jagman

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To clarify , roll cabs can be a PITA , when full they get massively heavy , moving them with air lines and power leads on the floor is a challenge , they usually get so full of stuff that drawers often jam with something and they dont like getting wet or damp garages -they rust You often get jobs to do not in your garage -now you have to transfer tools into another box that you can carry. You dont have to get Peli , there are cheaper copies , however you get a lifeime warranty with Peli , they are also waterproof , you can leave your box in the rain and ...nothing happens , your tools never rust . you can stack them , and divide up tools into the most used tools in one box , power tools in another , body tools in another and so on , each box is easy to move or put in your car , say going on a euro trip. There are loads of different sizes and useful for other gear; camera kit or laptops etc when travelling , they also dont scratch or get dented and you can stand on them for extra height if needed -basically, all round a good thing

There has been a general move away from steel tool chests , PELI cases are de rigeur , strong light and easy to move and carry , you can use foam inserts , easy to diy and will give you about 5 layers of tools - you can shadow board these with dual coloured trays and diy but its a real pain to do , you can buy pre cut foams but they ate more expensive than the case. easiest is to keep individual sets such as sockets in their own plastic / steel cases and cut out the case shape and insert into the foam , I use a Stahwille case , all done for me and tools all laser etched with my initials with dual colour inserts shadow boarded , it was only £5000 !!!!!!!!!-oh the joys of self employment !!!!! Pelican case circa £200 and foam circa £25 - and endless hours of fun cutting the shapes ,get one hole wrong and start all over again -lol

They are well made , solid aluminium case and robust display , the display is quite large for viewing at a glance and bright , fitting is a bit harder due to the rectanglular shape if in dash . In built fuel/boost cut override is very accurate , but adjustment and setting requires the rear panel unscrewing for access - this oddly needs the unit unplugging to remove it ,but you would only be doing this once . The control circuitry works very well and has a fast processor , the turbo timer function I've never used , boost control is solid ,adjustments are easy once you get used to the system operation (multiple use buttons and a step through function). It has more functions than most controllers , dim/bright , variable units , boost display , volts , boost cut ,timer , scramble boost and easy to connect and wire up , the solenoid connector plug is ok , but not great . Well priced and better built than most and reliable - the main downside is cutting a square hole but it's flange allows a 2mm error and flat surface mounting can be done on Velcro . As the map sensor signal goes via the unit if it's disconnected the car won't start , you could use this as an immobiliser if you want to walk around with a boost gauge in your pocket -lol

No the US had no PPI , but they also had no constant flow of imports in LHD out of Japan , so numbers were limited , they also have a more multi car culture and drag car based culture , with a greater number of people with disposable income - the competition in alternative cars is also more US based cars: Corvette: Mustangs etc , The US also wont have the same selection of JAP cars due to import regulations and age criteria , some cars are simply not available , really the rise in prices in Japan has little to do with the US other than cars for braking and for parts ,engines etc and maybe the few RHD to LHD conversions provided its cost effective How many NAs are there in the US ?

The effect of PPI cannot be underestimated , in the period we are looking at over 30 billion pounds was paid out , 25% of this was spent on holidays and 25% on cars , no suprise holiday sales rocketed and car sales rocketed - during this same period wages dropped in real terms and still dropping - DEMAND is cash/ credit based , no money no honey . This type market for Supras is not a true market , its not an essential , and if say there are 1000 supras in japan, but only 10 are for sale , these 10 dictate the price for the 990 cars not for sale , and they are mostly auction driven , so fast and larger variables exist both up and down . Those that predict higher and higher prices , I would ask WHY ? and how ? -given no more PPI and lower salaries and a huge inrease in credit and debt by households

The prices in Japan , will be driven by export , and mainly by UK ,Aus,and NZ , (Ireland),due to the cars being RHD . As I said previously prices follow the economy ,one reason for price rises was the large PPI payouts from the banks in UK ,there is a always a "fashion" element to any of theses type things , much like antiques , in or out of fashion . The whole drifting thing has effected jap car demand ,but this will come and go again . Australia has had a completely mental house price inflation .much like UK , And I mean mental , this releases capital against the house and people will pay more for things -cos they can,, Now Australian debt is absolutely enormous ( I'm sure any Aussie members can verify this) with flatline wages - The home Japanese market isn't really about 20 year old cars , and parking ,one major obstacle to multi car ownership . The whole classic car scene is a bit odd , especially about originality , bordering on insane ......I've seen two blokes arguing about the shade of paint on a cylinder head and weather or not it changed in 1964 . The majority of supras are import , so for originality front brakes should be retained , speedo,speed limiter, flare, tyres, no fog light ,down to the under bonnet stickers - that is the old classic car view - only the UK spec would be correct . I personally think we've hit the ceiling price wise and expect prices to fall ,I have 7 "classic" jap cars , so that hurts me more than most - but I really don't give a shit , I enjoy them for what they are ,not what they are worth ,and every car has non factory shocks -bugger the purists

The head unit is a pre amp and having a separate power amp keeps the dash board board components smaller and cooler , and a cleaner audio path - it allows more powerful speakers - cars wiring limits to 50 watt amp Yes the underseat amplifier is internally short circuited probably moisture , new head unit would probably be the easiest thing now , modern units have moved on anyway . Being a snob , I prefer "engineer " lol

I don't think the originality is such a big issue with the supra , they are famous for being raced or modified and are no "classic car" shows or such like with points awarded or concourse status - I doubt there ever will be , it's for people with time on their hands and that mindset - long gone Price wise , it's not just rarity that reflects the price , I once had a car that was 1'of 6 ever made , worth next to nothing .... It's a market and driven by market forces , availability of credit , cash , and the economy in general and the prices of alternatives . Prices will peak and then plummet , credit will be tighter , cash harder to come by . The boom in lease cars the last few years , will have an impact , I think we are around 90% of new car sales on lease terms now -no one actually owns a car anymore .. This madness is pumping millions of cars into the market , and must push used car prices lower .....now the supra has a major competitor , basically any of the more modern performance cars , M5. , Audi , et al . A tighter economy will push many luxury used cars into the mix , of course some will be buying supra s as they have always wanted one but many would think why am I paying ten grand more than the price of a six year old Bentley continental ........ Fuel prices will also impact , there will be a massive push to electric cars ,sooner rather than later ,and the sheer number of cars on the road now is reducing any enjoyment in driving - who wants 500 HP in a traffic jam ? We will see ...

Ok - we are nearly there : pulling the fuse Rad 2 - removes the problem So the cross connection is from this circuit , Rad 2 circuit feeds 3 things : 1 the head unit radio 2 the antenna relay - that controls the antenna motor 3 the stereo amplifier All 3 have both rad2 and ACC supply to them , they also all have internal transistors and circuit boards - you need to unplug each one at at time , if nothing has been messed with ( additional wiring done from previous owner ) the amplifier below the seat is favourite - it's most likely to have water in it at some time or stood on or disturbed . I don't know if your head unit is stock - if not , start here . Check the original plug and loom , someone splicing power off this is favourite .The relay is behind the centre dash/glove box area , it's not a normal relay , it's also a control unit with internal transistors - but least likely to have been touched , due to location - but you never know , some people try real hard to get it all wrong. Troubleshooting circuits , you don't actually follow wires and looms , you do it with a meter and isolate first , inspecting cables is the last thing in line . I just trying to imagine people's faces if at work ,if I did that , a 4 mile circuit on a 747 , and I said "I be finished in about 3 years " - lol "I can't find and fix the fault " is also not an option , they are not likely to say "ok , we will just scrap the aircraft then " -lol

The ECU cuts power if it sees an error , different RPM,s for different issues , often this is not shown on the diagnostic codes : 1 the neural switch does this in an auto , but From memory it's lower revs - circa 3000 2 crank sensor also does this but higher up the rpm again from memory - (the crank sensor ring can also come loose) 3 Cam sensor again causes this Check sensor cables , screens , and connectors too 4 MAF sensor also causes odd misfires , easy enough th clean first 5 the trac control can throw a wobbly too and shut the throttle plate open /close 6 water temp sensor again cause a misfire 7 the ignition module another source 8 timing out causes this , so belt jump or the solenoid that ports oil to control the vvti - clean filter first It can be a real mare to find these issues , and Sod's law says it's the last bit you check or change Note : the aftermarket coil packs for the vvti are shit !!!!! The misfire at certain revs only in neutral also points to an ECU detected fault rather than a plugs /fuel problem

First , you need to inspect both ECU s - did they "blow" in the same place on the circuit cards , this can narrow down the output wires , the fault is most likely in the engine loom/gearbox loom - short circuit , maybe a plug backwards or wire trapped . Then , with the wiring diagrams , megga each pin on the ECU connector , this will show the faulty wire , this can be done with a stabilised power supply , set to 12v , it will show large current draw on a wire where it should not draw much . Then inspect that wire and loom run to its final connection , sensor or whatever , disconnect the load , sensor or whatever and check again . Now it's known if it is sensor or wire , repair wire as necessary . As it ran 280 km , it's an intermittent fault and probably a wire chaffed , so around steering, wheels, shocks , fans , and grommets and clamps . Could be as easy as a 2 pin connector forced on backwards or with a broken clip - Only about 80 or so pins to check

Yes the acc power supplies two fuses , after the fuses, one to the stereo amp ( is it fitted ?) (another source for xfeed) , the other feeds the cjg lighter and clock (clock also twin supplies and a source of xfeed) All have a common supply ACC , but with the ignition off - its no longer there , this does not stop it becoming an earth , a common earth and the earth becoming live so it powers up -cross wiring or internal short circuits or high resistance earths cause odd problems -its a case of isolating the problem , use a meter - I cant help too much as i have no idea whats been added or altered , for example a boost guage in place of the clock , or new stereo and what did they do with the wiring But you are on a correct path at least -when you find it, you always go -DOH!!!!

Your ACC wire pink and blue - only feeds your cig lighter and the rad no2 (radio) , or I must say SHOULD only feed these two, both via fuses So which one most likely to have been buggered with .....I'm going with the radio and maybe an antenna feed , then again there may be a memory live feed to keep radio channels stored - there is no end of ways people bodge wiring

pm sent

When you press in the cig lighter , it's a big load i.e. It draws a lot of current , the cross connection , chafe or contact or wire is a high resistance and it drops off the voltage on ACC busbar . It could easily be something like an alarm fitted , as these often flash headlights (perm live) or hazards or horn (perm live),so an alarm relay can have both live and ACC on its contacts , sticking contact and boom , cross feed of power .... It's always a job to diagnose elect problems without the car in front of you and a meter to prod about with.

Dome ,rad ,fog ,abs ,haz/horn, efi 1 , Trac ,am2 , alt, and a couple more , you need to look at the wiring diagrams

As you have disconnected the ignition switch - and problem still exists , you are looking at a power feed from a chaffed wire , contact between power circuits . There are about 6 or 7 permanently live fuses , you need to pull one at a time and see which circuit is powering the ACC circuit , then use a meter on that feed to find the problem . If none of the live fuses are powering the ACC, then it's a battery feed ,and probably wrongly wired by owner -car alarm or such

Think beyond wrapping , there are now a large variety of carbon ,aramid , Kevlar mixes and aluminium , copper etc weaved with carbon - these can all be clear coated with dye in the clearcoat , the more coats the deeper the coloured translucent finish . This allows a rich palette and logo,s possible It's not cheap and labour intensive but has a more durable finish than paint and polishes to a high gloss finish and allows some great effects for a show car It would be a good addition to wrapping as a service to offer

Pm sent

There is a Volvo recall on the brake check valve -intermittent brake servo assist and pedal pressure - 2007 cars on

Adaptor leads, round to oval are available , not that expensive , rebuild of alternators is possible but it's usually the center slip ring that's worn out and grooved - not easy or cheap to replace . "Uprated" alternators are available for a reasonable price , but they are not really uprated , any higher power output should also have greater cooling which would make them physically larger , they are not , also the windings would be larger (bigger alternator ) they are not , so they just alter the regulator system to provide more current and hopefully the brushes .-I have never had an issue with them . The alternators do not work much past 100,000 miles , it's just another of the supra running costs to be included

Mirrors now sold

When you select D or R , the gearbox goes into second , then into first or reverse , to stop the car lurching , this is controlled by the brake pedal switch , its also possible someone has shimmed the gearbox actuators to quicken the shift change at some point -there are other possibilities -usually the fluid levels and colour are start points