antno

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Cheers I understand now

at what horsepower or revs would you think about needing a kevlar belt? is it just to do with revving the engine or higher valve spring pressures or just big power forcing the piston down? cheers antno

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I have a fair understanding off setting up diffs was just wondering on the preload on the plate pack that's all. I work for a small rally team and do the odd race car. I mainly build engines but the other guy in the gearbox shop has been building compotition boxes for years. Started at prodrive on the wrc legaceys then the imprezas. So he's always there to help but he's never had anything to do with supras We do porsches and we run a kaaz diff with 40nm of preload on the pack and 60/45 ramp angles. 60 under acceleration and 45 under breaking. This is quite soft and progressive but it is for gravel and rear engine and rear wheels drive so can't really use anything we've learnt testing that on the supras as it's not ending up in the forest. For road/trackday novice drivers we halve the preload again so it's even less grabby. Some factory race cars used to use spools instead. Possible due to the diffs shearing I don't know. We found the kaaz diff doesnt need massive preload well not for a Porsche. Also have you tested with the kaaz oil? We couldn't as our diffs are in the gearbox so we have to use an oil compatable with syncros. Do you think the 30/30 ramp angles are a bit too flat? Would you stay 2 way with 45/45 or 1.5 way and run a 60/45 or something? Also what way would you have the ramp angles flatter under breaking or acceleration? Cheers for your time antno

so i stripped the diff and found nothing wrong with the internals. think the diff is actually a kaaz as its very similar. i think it could have possably have had the wrong oil in. the preload on the bench when cold was only 50nm but i think that when the oil gets hot it goes too thin and the preload goes much higher, which is whats causing the solid rear axle. the diff was set to its full friction face setting of 16ff. i rebuilt the diff with kaaz oil to the same set up as it came out of the car and got 110nm of preload so i think it was set up for drifting or drag racing or possibly a competent driver. ive decided to run it at 8ff with a preload of 60nm(second photo in) so its a bit more progressive and better around bends. if anyone thinks its another diff please let me know figures i got with kazz oil 16ff 110nm 12ff 85nm 8ff 60nm 4ff 35nm

Well the catch needs to be futher forward by about an inch. The catch tries to operate on the vertical part of the loop so it won't engage

Ye that's what I thought but cudnt find any creases or cracks

any one had a problem of not being able to get the bonnet far enough back to get the bonnet catch to operate. tried adjusting it on the brackets but cant get it back enough. also the lines on the wings are miles out then. but could adjust the wings to suit maybe. car doesn't look like its been shunted. could just cut them off and use pins but would be nice to use both. is there different bonnets? i no uk spec and jdm but did they change latch locations but about an inch cheers antno

Taken off a car I bought. bn sports bonnet. it looks well made but it didn't fit great but after fitting a standard bonnet to my car my wings are miles out so it would of fitted much better if i would have played about with the wings. also someone has cut off the standard latch hoops could be welded back on as there is still metal there. has had bonnet pins fitted instead which can stay with the bonnet. wont have washer jets in when sold. paint looks good if you were going to keep it white apart from a little blemish on the inside of one of the vents. sold as its not really to my taste £150 Can post at buyers expense. anyone know why my standard bonnet cant be pushed far enough back to engage with the catch. its as far back on the adjustment as possible and the car doesn't have any accident damage. think its why the previous owner cut the hoops off the fibre glass bonnet. cheers antno

Na can't find it. But thanks anyway Anyone else any ideas

cheers. apart from fitting a switch to turn of the turbo timer when i want to set the alarm, is there any other way around it. normally this alarm works with turbo timers, after they have run down. also any ideas why its causing my idle to hunt. cheers

what lambda figure do you aim for. we aim for .91 on n/a cars at work do you run these any richer? cheers antno sorry for high jacking your thread:rolleyes:

fair enuf. mite aswell get rid of it then but ill still have understand why its causing the alarm to go off other wise it will just piss me off

i know most of time but worth it for the times you are late and you give it death all the way there then have to leave her while she cherry red. also i noticed before i disconnected the turbo timer the revs at idle were hunting quite a bit. i thought it was because of the map on my f con but when i disconnected the turbo timer it seemed to have cured it. havernt had a chance to get her warm on road test as ive got the diff out. any ideas? i think there must be somthing not wire up correctly cheers antno

I've got a cobra alarm system and unless i unplug my turbo timer the alarm will go off. i think its' because its still wired to the ignition. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for an early hks turbo timer. i suspect that turbo times are wired up the same. Also do the newer turbo timers disconnect from the ignition circuit once they have run and allow the alarm to immobilise it? cheers antno

anyone know what type of bonnet this is and possibly how much its worth cheers antno

Actually if it is a carbon plated diff will the oil differ from the steel plated kaaz diffs?

The preload is just too high unless the diffs broken. Some one has put extra bevel washer in or increased the number of friction faces to the maximum or they have increased the plate pack height. I can reduce the friction faces by putting the outer spined plates together. We use kaaz diffs at work so Ive got plenty of oil to throw at it. Another question. Has any one had a carbonetic diff apart? Do they usually have a choice of ramp angles? Cheers antno

Recently bought a tt6 and the rear end was solid. No slip in the diff what so ever. I thought it could of been welded up as the car could possibly have been drifted back in Japan. Anyway pulled the diff housing out n popped the back off and I think it's a carbonetic diff but il find out more when I get it to work and have a look at the plate pack. What I want to know is how much preload do you normally run? I'm a novice driver so I suspect something quite low 50nm or something. I'm going to use it for trackdays n just general road use so I want it to go round bends. Also the ramp angle seem to be about 30/30 which would be nice and progressive. Has any one tested different angle for braking and acceleration? Cheers antno

Im after a standard bonnet preferably in White but I'm willing to respray it. J spec with no vents. Local to Oxfordshire would be good Cheers Anthony

Not a new member but finally found a car White 1996 tt6. Really happy with the car. Bought of jurgen at jm imports. Would recommend them to anyone. Quality car. Very helpful and a very good price. Plan is bit of a track day/summer road car

Cheers

Just wondering where the relay is that control the injectors. Just want to be able to stop them from squirting whilst I'm doing a compression test Cheers antno

I know I've just missed out on a group buy but is there anyone on here after selling one within the next month Also do you know if a trd spoiler will fit in the cover or will I have to get one made to measure or remove the spoiler? Cheers antno