richardharmon

I get this, *exactly* as Matt describes it. Mods: Blitz NurSpec-R, full de-cat (Blitz mid-pipe and CW down-pipe), RLTC, that’s about it! I will do some further testing, maybe: Connect some sort of electrical indicator to the VSV valves and check the correct signal is getting to them. Try putting a one-way valve in the line that supplies the pressure tank, to see if holding more pressure in there makes any difference. Shout up if you think this one is a bad idea for any reason.

Right, I am having a problem with the sequential set-up, sometimes when I kick down no2 turbo doesn’t bother coming on line. I have made a quick visual inspection of all the hoses and they seem intact, though some are difficult to inspect and require further attention. Out of curiosity I wanted to measure the pressure in the pressure tank to see if the one-way valve was functioning. To perform this test I teed off the input pipe that goes to the air intake control valve's VSV (the one on the top of the engine) and connected a boost gauge. I went for a drive and observed the pressure readings. As you would imagine, when on boost the pressure rises quickly in line with the turbo boos pressure. When I take my foot off the throttle however the pressure very quickly drops back to 0.5 bar. I continued to drive off boost and the pressure gradually crept back down to about 0.2 bar. After idling the car for a few minutes the pressure dropped further to about 0.1 bar. Has anyone ever performed this sort of test before or know what the expected results are? I would love to know why no2 just doesn’t bother sometimes and you can guarantee it’s just as you’ve pulled out to overtake! Any more ideas?

The difference is the amount of exhaust you actually get! The R-System includes the intermediate pipe; this takes you all the way up to the second cat pipe. Note that if you replace a stock system with the NurSpec R-System you *will* still have both cats in place. Chris Wilson sells good de-cat pipes for one or both of the cats.

I had a really bad oil leak, enough to cause the oil level to drop far enough (from full) for the level warning light to come on over about 60 miles. Turned out to be the oil pressure switch, which meant I couldn’t see the oil dripping out unless the engine was running. Although the switch still worked (no pressure light came on) oil was passing from the input to and leaking out the collar on the plug at the back. It’s a bugger to get to; you have to take off the power steering pump and A/C compressor. Any way just a thought, you might want to check it.

Okay, cheers.

On a j-spec, are the no1 and no2 turbos interchangeable, that is, can one fit a spare no2 in place of a no1? I have broken no1 turbo you see and though this information might be useful.

Yes, just like that!

I just put a socket set on the nut that holds the pully part and move it the same direction you would to tighten the nut, works a treat for me. I'm not saying it's easy to move by any means, but I can get the belt on without help if I use this method.

I think the stock fuel cut comes in at about 1 bar, maybe just over. I can get the fuel cut, with dashboard lights if I reduce the over-boost protection on the VFCC so I think that is working. I will get some new plugs and if that doesn’t solve it a new pump.

yes, got my restrictor ring now, will be a busy weekend I think!

Thanks guys. Chris, so have you replaced your fuel pump then?

I fitted my front de-cat pipe at the weekend, as I haven’t got my restrictor ring fitted yet I’ve put the baffle in the exhaust to help keep the boost down. I also fitted a TRL VFCC which seems to be working fine. My problem is that when the car hits about 1.1 to 1.15 bar of boost the engine stutters like there is some sort of fuel cut in place. The red light or the check engine light never come on. To test if it was the fuel cut I set the over boost protection on the VFCC to maximum, the problem still occurs at the *same* boost levels. I have eliminated the RLTC by simply switching it off. I have not up-rated the fuel pump or changed the plugs yet. So, anyone had this problem or know what is causing it, I suspect the pump isn’t up tp the job but would have thought the effect would be more gradual, this really feels like the over-boost fuel cut, or RLTC hard cut but without the warning lights and the RLTC switched off!?

Okay, right. So, do you know if pulling the trac fuse does stop the butterfly from actuating when the gear changes?

Is your car a manual or an auto? I believe there can be problems with loss of overdrive (or some such) when removing the stock traction control on an auto box. Also I think the valve used by the stock TC is also used by the ECU when it changes gear to reduce the power transmitted through the gearbox during the change. If this is so then removing the butterfly valve may reduce the life of the gearbox.

The first time I tried the RL app, I simply uploaded the current settings and then sent them back to the box, low and behold the wheel positions were buggered. It got the front/rear mixed up with the left/right so far as I could tell without jacking up. Luckily I noticed it immediately because the rolling radius of my fronts and rears are slightly different, so I was getting cut in a straight line at low throttle but high speed. I guess this could cause lack of slip detection with no side effects at high speed if the front and rears have the same rolling radius. Another thing, when I used the new RL app, it just disabled my control knob, the unit defaulted to the “wet” mode setting. Is it possible it’s disabled your control dial and the unit has defaulted to the “off” setting (just a thought)?

Further to my last post, I don’t have a restrictor ring installed but I will be getting one of Chris Wilson’s first cat replacement pipes soon so I will most likely need one.

I have had the 2nd cat removed and the Blitz exhaust for about 12 months now, just got round to updating my signature! Anyway in answer to your question: I had the cat removed at the same time as the exhaust, so I don’t know what differences are made by the individual components. The car had a non-standard 2nd cat back system when I bought it though. Unfortunately I didn’t have a boost gauge installed until I changed the exhaust. Still I can say this, it was *definitely* faster after removing the 2nd cat and replacing the old (non-standard) system. I am running an indicated 0.95 bar in normal weather conditions but of late, when it’s been nice and cold at night I have seen it go just a touch over 1.0 bar. Saying that these are values indicated by the boost gauge, I suspect it reads a fraction high as I don’t yet have a FCD and I have never had it cut under full boost.

Nothing implied by that last post

You're right, but I guess it's better than been "too soon"!

Officially 7:30, I was there at about 8:30 last time though, but then I'm late for everything!

Adam – What happened, what’s with the Mondeo!?

Nick - Will be good to see you, to assist your endeavour here is the address of the pub and the multimap link. Ferryboat Inn Holywell St. Ives Cambridgeshire PE27 4TG Multimap Link Follow the signs for Needingworth. When you get to Needingworth go into the village (the speed limit drops to 30) Holywell is signposted, it's a right-hand turn (quite a small road really). If memory serves the signpost is on the left hand and side pointing to the road you need to take on the right. Hope this helps, Richard.

I would get a belt tensioner pulley as well, they’re usually badly worn from what I can gather (and not too expensive though I can’t remember exactly how much).

Nick - Shame you didn't make it, though only a few of us turned up (probably due to odd timing this month), would have been nice to see your car. Phil was there with his laptop ready to transform your car! So are you running the RLTC with the "supplied settings"? When I got mine it was useless, set to 4 cylinders, all the cut tables were just set to 'on' so no progressive cut, jut all or nothing, plus lots of other things. Phil's dat file is fantastic, it does transform the car! I would recommend RLTC to anyone (though I am preaching to the converted here I guess).

Ant and James will also be coming along again, James has got himself a rather nice red TT Auto now too. Mmm Mega Ribs!