richardharmon

Do you mean the plugs that connect the wiring loom to the coil packs? If so then the connectors are cheap and easy to fit, you can break the old connectors apart and connect new ones using the existing pins. The part number for the connector housing is 90980-11246, the EPC seems to list them as a condenser for some strange reason, and hence the problems I had finding them in the first place. Edit: That part number is for one housing only, you'll obviously need 6 of them.

Out of interest, how much did the R134a recharge kit cost you and what did it include? I just bought 9.6Kg of R134a and the correct adaptors, cost me about £90. I don't care about having to re-charge it again now, got plenty of gas!

The low side is definitely on the passenger side, near the bulkhead. I re-charged mine recently after having to replace the condenser unit. Personally I like to charge the system from the low side.

Sounds like the ignition timing might be out to me (too advanced). While you’re checking the distributor cap, check that the whole distributor has not come loose, make sure you can’t rotate the whole distributor assembly by hand. I would definitely get the timing checked as a first step as this is very easy to do and shouldn’t cost too much if you have to take it somewhere to get it done. Does anybody know if the NA uses a vacuum advance? Either way the mechanism that advances the timing at higher revs might be at fault, if pinking is occurring then I would suspect too much advance, check all the hoses that go anywhere near the distributor for leaks too. Best of luck.

Just the one near the front of the engine. It's the front (no1) turbo that has the waste gate attached to it, the one near the back attached to the no2 turbo is the exhaust bypass valve and you don't need to modify the piping to that at all.

Don't know about the idle but I had exactly the same problem with my second turbo, turned out to be a split hose. This thread by Ian C is just the ticket for diagnosing this problem: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27904

Thanks Ian

Cheers! Good question, anyone know for sure?

Right, I've posted in the for sale section, let's see who wants to let me have a set for a song.

Not much is the answer then

I was thinking about putting a post up, I don't know how much I should pay for a set though, especially when they *might* not make all that much difference, anyone got any idea what the second hand value of UK cams would be? I understand there may be some reluctance to answer that question as nobody wants to piss-off anyone selling a set. If anybody has any idea you could PM me and I promise not to disclose the information.

Thanks, I wasn't sure what the differences were. I know what you mean about the work involved, but as I'm going to be taking the cams out anyway it might be worht a shot.

Does anybody know for sure if UK-spec TT cams will fit a J-spec TT engine and if so would it make much difference (if I’m right in thinking the UK-spec cam duration is slightly higher that the J-spec)? I was just wondering because I might have the cams out anyway to change the valve stem seals, thought it might be worth doing if I could find some cheap UK cams. Obviously I would rather get some HKS or Jun cams but finances restrict that particular exercise at the moment . I just feel like I should do something since the cams are going to be out anyway, seems like a missed opportunity otherwise! Cheers, Richard

Well you can get the sticks in samco blue, almost! Strange walking stick site Edit: Check out the pimp cane! :D

Was the stock dump valve leaking then (can you blow though the large pipes)? Recently I have found that both mine and Anthony's stock valves were leaking, I wonder if this problem is fairly common. Love those walking stick ends, LMFAO!

The HKS BOV comes with a rubber cap that fits where the stock hose used to connect to, not to dissimilar to those walking stick ends I suppose Can I ask what you've done with your stock BOV, the small pipe that comes out the top seems to be disconnected and blocked off. Is this not a bad idea as the BOV won't actuate when you let off the throttle? Just thought I'd ask

Remember if you get rid of both the cats and replace the rest of the exhaust you'll still need a restrictor ring, even if you get a boost controller. This is because the j-spec waste-gate isn’t big enough to cope with the higher exhaust gas flow when the exhaust is replaced and the cats have been removed causing the turbo to boost even when the waste-gate is fully open, this results in uncontrollable over boost. If you are running the stock ECU you will always need a TRL VFCC or other similar device (I personally prefer the TRL device) if you intend to run over 1 bar of boost, no matter how you achieve this.

Top job Ian, fantastic post! I reckon this one will be referenced quite a bit, lack of 2nd turbo due to split/popped hoses seems to be a common problem atm.

That's fine, hope it helps for the Apexi install.

That's probably fine, I assume you have not removed the pipes from the stock waste gate VSV, so all you are doing is bleeding off some of the pressure, preventing the existing control mechanism from opening the waste gate as early.

Yes, the blue pipes you are talking about are for my Blitz boost controller. It's difficult to get a good photo of what's going on with the pipes down there, I have attached a picture that might help though. The first part shows the location of the waste gate VSV, you'll need to disconnect both pipes and cap them off. The second part of the picture shows where the blue pipes are connected to the turbo assembly. The bottom black pipe that is capped off, is one of the pipes that used to connect to the waste gate VSV. Remember this is the plumbing for a Blitz controller, while I think they all work in pretty much the same way, the instructions for installation might be different with the Apexi, I don't know? I hope this helps anyway.

I had a very similar problem, turned out it was simply a split hose. The split wasn't really visible when I visually inspected but must have been opening up under pressure. Check all the small rubber hoses running between the vsvs and actuators, take them off and give them a good looking over if you don’t see anything obvious. Hope it's not the pressure tank, looks like a bugger to get at! You might find this link useful: Twin Turbo Description I have attached a picture indicating the location of the pipe that was split on my car, this is the pipe connecting the exhaust gas control valve to its vsv:

Here is the part number: 90980-11246 Whatever the dealer says it is, order this and you should end up with what you want. As I said, it came up as a condenser when I ordered mine. This part number is for one housing only, so you'll need six (maybe obvious).

Ha, yes, I know what you mean! The reason your local friendly Toyota dealer can’t find them is they come up as condensers on the system; don’t ask me why! You can buy the entire plug shell (excluding pins), I do have the part number somewhere but I wont be able to dig it out until Tuesday, hopefully someone else will be along with it before then. To change the shells, just break the old ones away (mine were so brittle they just fell apart), being careful not to damage the pins, that leaves you with two pins connected to the wires on the loom. Insert the pins into the new plug shells and push down the retainer clips. Be sure to make a note of which way round the pins are inserted in the old plug shells, I don’t know if it makes a difference. One word of warning, if you have bits of broken plastic floating about around the spark plug holes *make damn sure* you get them all out before removing the plugs, I dropped a piece into the cylinder and didn’t notice until I started the car, bye bye no.1 turbo!

I had exactly the same problem a while back, it was the rad cap. Mine was obviously knackered when visually inspecting it, that's not to say one that looks perfect could be knackered though. Think they are about £12 from Toyota, not too bad in the grand scheme of things.