Kristian_Wraae

Also looking for a power steering pump with bracket

The heat shield has to be from a UK/EU/USDM supra. Not a JDM - Jspec. They are not the same.

still looking. Shield has to be from a UK spec.

The water pipe I need. [ATTACH=CONFIG]216142[/ATTACH]

Looking for a mint UK twins heat shield. Also in need of the vacuum hard line pipes for the twins as well as the water pipe that wraps around the engine from the water pump and to the oil cooler. All parts have to be a great condition and pipes without dents or any bent pipes. Must ship to Denmark.

I'll take all bearings apart and put a new oil pump as minimum. If I find anything that looks knackered it'll be a complete rebuild (and a good excuse to go stroker....)

This is the amount: It is mostly rusted metal. Is this normal?

I bought an Aristo 2JZ-GTE VVTI to convert to VVTI. The engine was supposed to be a 65.000 km unit (somehow they all are......) Anyway looking more like a 265.000 km unit and the oil pan contains metal shavings. How much metal would you expect there to be if nothing has broken? Nothing? Half a tea spoon? I'm filtering all the oil now. I'm of course taking the engine apart - so I'll know in a few days how the bearings look, but what do you think?

Do you think that it will make it knock at idle?

I had a strange experience yesterday. I have a 2JZ-GTE med an Apexi Power FC standalone and suddenly the check engine light came on. Checking the hand controller I could see that it was warning of massive knock even at idle. The car drove completely normal. I then drove home slowly and after 10 mins or so when I was stopped at a traffic light the knock warning stopped and all was normal. During the knocking the timing was 10 degrees. No other sensors were strange. AFR was 14.7 and EGT around 430 C. When I came home I put it in neutral and reved it a few times to 6000 rpm and there was a little activity from the knock sensors as normal (so I could verify that they were still giving out a signal) What could cause this apart from maybe a failing sensor/wiring?

Looks great. I have Advan RS on mine. Really like the 10 spoke designs.

Ok, on their website I can see only one and it is missing a lot of important parts. - - - Updated - - - Has to be VVTI.

Where do people buy their engines here? I'm looking for a 2JZ GTE VVTI any good sources in UK or Europe? Need shipping to Denmark. Not much on ebay and I have not had much luck with google.

Does anyone know the thread/pitch of the stock oil temperature sensor for the TT non VVTI transmission? BTW ATF has just informed me that my transmission is ready. They have build a 1JZ-GTE VVTI transmission and they claim it is good for 750 whp. They have a Lexus with the same transmission running for a couple of years now at that power level with no issues. So fingers crossed....

You can get a special device that can connect to where the radiator cap goes and will allow you to put the system under pressure. Then you can look for places where it drips or gets wet. It can be very difficult if the engine is warm because the coolant will just evaporate. So I would test on a cold engine. It will also allow you to detect if pressure is lost and how quickly. Also look for hoses that have been removed and put back. Sometimes if the clips are not put exactly where they were before and the hose will then not seal properly.

I have the 1JZ-GTE VVTI in my car and it is not cable controlled. Yes the PCS can run it. It has 6 dedicated shift solenoid outputs (the 2JZ-GTE uses only 2). So it has the capability of four more. All 6 can be PWM'ed.

The major problem is the ABS sensor. I used to have a 2jzgte transmission with a one piece driveshaft. It was vibrating and driving me nuts.

I know. It has the J1 bell housing. ATF say they can upgrade it to 750 hp but they will have to use the 4-pinion planetary gear instead of the 5-pinion from the 2JZ-GTE transmission. One solution would be to have a custom made rear output shaft made that is a hybrid between the front of the 2JZGTE version and rear section of the 2JZGE.

I use a 1JZ-GTE VVTI transmission in my 2JZ-GTE MK3. It is a direct swap if you use the mk3 rear housing. Stock drive shaft and runs on a JZA80 TT ECU. Retains the ABS sensor and mechanical speedometer which is located in the rear housing on the mk3. Problem is strength. That is why I wanted it upgraded.

I expect they will. But there could be some issues regarding who is to blame for the mixup. Also the transmission is now finished and I have been waiting since february.... I think they by mistake did a 2JZ-GTE upgraded transmission instead of the 1JZ-GTE VVTI transmission upgrade I asked for.

I'm not going to have it shipped here unless it would be a better transmission. I have emailed Ryan G, maybe he knows something about the signals.

I have a PCS transmission controller already wired up to my car. I have the TT valve body. So I would just need to know what the two extra solonoids do and which signals to send. There are enough outputs on the PCS to run it.