Kristian_Wraae

The only thing that can be wrongly connected are the hoses going from the take off plate to the remote filter/thermostat. I assume that if they are connected wrongly the filter will not allow any circulation. On the take off plate the center hose flows into the engine, right? And the off center flows to the filter/thermostat?

I was wondering, how does the oil circulate in the 2JZ-GTE (which route) ?

So I got a new thermostat from Mitsubishi. I exchanged it and tested the old one. It opens at 75C. So it was the low temperature thermostat. But the temps at cruise are the same. 52 C. But I noticed that when I slow down the temps rise quite quickly. Much quicker than you would expect possible from simple heating of the oil. So I'm wondering if the way I measure the temperature is right. I have a probe in the drain plug of the oil pan. And I'm thinking that the air cooling the oil pan and the drain plug might be able to cool it enough make it to 52 C. When I stop after driving it rises to 80-82 C in the oil pan. Is there a better place to measure the oil temperature?

Yes, either it is stuck open or it is the low temperature thermostat that HKS sells. That one opens at 75C meaning that the oil will get warmed by the stock oil/water cooler (since the water is 94 C) and then all of it passes through the 30 row cooler cooling it to 52 C. I've been googling and it seems the HKS kit uses the Mitsubishi EVO stock thermostat. So I should just get a new OEM one. They open at 100 C. That way the HKS system will just take care of the excess heat that the stock system can't handle.

I have added a HKS type R oil cooler system to my car. I exchanged the HKS oil cooler with a 30 row cooler. I have kept the original water to oil cooler unit as well. I have a temperature sensor mounted in the drain plug on the sump. The oil temperatures are very low and I'm concerned that they are too low. At cruise 80 km/h the oil is at 52 C. It can rise to around 80 if the car just sits at idle with no wind cooling the radiator. Before it would sit at 100 C or a little more. So I was wondering if the thermostat in the HKS system is permanently open or the fact that I kept the stock cooler means that the oil is heated by the stock cooler to more than what the HKS thermostat needs to open more or less fully resulting in all oil getting sent to the oil cooler and then back into the pan? I thought the HKS system was designed to keep the stock oil cooler. Should I removed it or do you think the HKS thermostat is broken?

Is this where you mean? (the red cross)

I saw some inconel probe with an exposed tip. Is that as safe as the inconel ones without exposed tip?

I need to know a little more about where to tap it. Do you tap it at an angle and in front of the first upper exhaust stud? Outside the heatshield ? Or do you remove the heatshield and tap it straight down to the rear of the first upper exhaust stud? If it is in front of the first exhaust stud I guess Í need to place probe at an angle (like 45 degrees - down and pointing back and towards the intake side). Then it should be possible to tap it by only removing the y-pipe going to the intercooler and keep the heatshield in place. What do you think?

Do you by any chance have a picture?

I'm going to tap my manifold for an EGT probe. I have found no pictures but a few threads about it. So if someone has a few pictures of where exactly to tap it. Also how thick is the stock cast exhaust manifold?

Didn't you get an extra TPS and ECU pin with a bit of wire? I would depin the VTA at the ECU and the TPS side and use the two extra pins/wires with a long wire soldered in between. I wouldnt cut anything until you know what is wrong.

That is a ridiculous price. If you don't mind waiting I can send you a few pins (I have a hacked up patch harness for the ECU) for the ECU or if someone closer (that is within UK) has a hacked up patch harness you might be able to get some pins there.

Yes I agree. Now lets get a beer and celebrate that we fixed it

I think that since it is an intermittent problem there is connection most of the time. It'll only take 0.5 s of short or open to set the code and if he can drive it around for 10 mins or more before the condition is met multimeters are not going to find the problem. I still think that it must be a problem with VTA and simply running a new wire will tell us if that indeed is the problem. If running a new wire solves it he can try to find the error or just be happy with the new wire. When that is said I have previously had trouble with the pins of the ECU connector comming loose and it could be a simple thing like that so: When you get the plug of the ECU remove the yellow cap and check that the pins for the TPS are all locked in their seats.

What I usually do is get the part number for the plug and then my guy at Toyota knows a way to find the pins for it. These are the part numbers for the plugs and pins (as far as I can see) ECU: plug 90980–11214 pin 82998–? TPS: plug 90980–10711 pin 82998–12620 I can only find the pin for the TPS, but my local Toyota dealer could find the pins for the ECU too. They usually have most of the pins in store but better double check before you order. They come in short or long lead and the long lead usually rather expensive compare to the short lead.

I have checked the diagrams and the first thing I would do is to run a new wire directly from VTA on pin 43B on the ECU to pin two on the TPS. If you have no other sensor issues the most likely problem is a short or open in the VTA. It should be a yellow wire. If there are problems with VCC or ground (E) I would expect you to have problems with the subthrottle sensor aswell (and it would set code 47 too). Also the MAP sensor is depending on VC. So depin the ECU pin 43B (the E9 plug - the one with the bolt) and the pin 2 on the TPS and get two new pin inserts from Toyota and solder a wire in between.

I agree, it sounds like a wiring issue. Could be difficult to diagnose. You have to look for damage to the harness. It might be easier to run new wires one at the time. You could get new pins with a small piece of wire from Toyota for the TPS and the ECU and depin the wires one at a time. You have to check the wiring diagram though since some of the sensors share ground and 5V. You don't have any other error codes?

Did you try to run the car with the new TPS? From what you write I understand that you can clear the codes and run the car for a while until the problem reappears and the code is set, right? If so there must be an intermittent short or open in the circuit or in the TPS itself. In other words the TPS might mesasure out right but there can still be an intermittent open in the VTA E2 circuit inside the TPS.

The most important thing to check is the VTA-E2 resistance with someone fully depressing the throttle pedal. If the resistance is infinite or much more than 11.2 kOhm then the TPS is most likely dead.

Now you are being ridiculous. You could just find the wires at the ECU end. They can easily be depinned. Then you check the resistance there. Alternatively get two splice wires for the TPS plug. Your Toyota dealer should have those. Then you unplug the TPS plug and insert the splice wires and measure from them. This is most likely at defect TPS and any garage can check that and fix it for £200 including a brand new TPS.

Well the nature of a narrow band is that it constantly changes between high and low indicating if the mixture is lean or rich. It can never be normal - only too much or too little.

What happens is probably that you have an intermittend TPS error that sets the error code and forces the ECU into limp mode (aka the 3000 rpm stuff). Resetting the ECU makes it able to run until the code is set again. Could be wiring or the TPS itself. You need to check those.

It could be a wiring problem. Also check the wires from the brakelight to the ECU. It is pin 4 on the smaller single plug that goes to the ECU (On the US Supra it is green-white). Check it gets 12V when then brake pedal is depressed.

It is the TPS. I had a broken TPS on mine at it stuck at the 3000 rpm line. Hard engagement when put into drive. And if the brake signal is not working then the torque converter wont disengage when comming to a stop.

Sounds like missing brake signal and incorrectly adjusted tps.