LOGIE
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Everything posted by LOGIE
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Does sound too little. Steering rack alone would prob hold that, then there is the cooler, pipes, pump. Cheers for info on dexron mate.
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Does anyone know how much power steering fluid our supras take? Complete refill from empty, ie reservoir, steering rack pipes. Im guessing 2-3 litres but ive been wrong before. Also is it dexron 3? Cheers.
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makes sense now going for a range rover for sentimental reasons. Ive always fancied an old landcruiser 60/70 or even 80 series for a resto project. Best of luck with it Dunk I'll be watching this one. Will it be in use daily once completed?
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Jubly. thanks matey much appreciated.
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Thanks for that mate, is there a gasket that needs replacing on the collector section once it needs to go back on?? I have the original bolts from the pre facelift brackets.
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Is it possible to change these without removing the turbos and inlets, the reason im thinking of changing is the engine has the facelift weaker ones fitted and I have a set of the older stronger ones lying in the garage. Cheers
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if it been sitting for 2-3 months im going to assume you have checked all the levels oil, water etc. Is your heater working? if so your water pump is probably ok. Id go for a drive keeping an eye on temp guage. Supras don't like sitting about for months they can run a little rough, my supra was at its best when it was my daily driver. I had a humming once and I thought it was my diff...turned out to be federal tyres and a smooth road surface.
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bit more info needed...is it whining?? could be a belt slipping. can you locate where IN the car?
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check your timing belt it may be snapped
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I always thought manuals were 90 amp and autos were 100 amp... regardless of engine. ToyoDIY backs this up.
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Thank you my good man. Your knowledge knows no boundaries.
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1, How do I remove the pilot bearing from the rear of the crank? 2, Im removing it so as to fit a torque converter so do I need to replace the pilot bearing with anything else?? Im thinking the "nipple" like thing on the face of the torque converter just sits in the recess where the pilot bearing used to be? Am I right? Thanks
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cheers, the large nipple like thing in the centre of the torque converter is hitting it and wont allow the autobox to be slotted into position. I thought as the engine was originally manual id have to remove the bearing??
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Im trying to marry up the torque converter to the crank on an engine that was originally a manual but the torque converter is hitting what seems to be some sort of roller bearing on the crank..? Im assuming I need to remove the bearing?? If so do I need to remove the rear crank housing and seal? Thanks
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I have not understood a single post from above.
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I have one of the ASI rebranded rads and its cheap for a reason IMO. I have it out the car at the moment and I accidently dropped a small light cardboard box on it a few weeks ago and it bent the fins.. I pushed them back very easily which shows just how soft the aluminium is. Im going back to stock as soon as I can afford it.
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Cheers guys. I thought I was correct but had to check. Saves a future headache
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When I took these off I didn't pay enough attention (or take a photo)... What is the correct order for placing the spacers? Is it Thick spacer first onto the crank, then flex plate, then thinner spacer with lip towards torque converter? Thanks
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Muchas grascias me amigo
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Does anyone know of a good aftermarket replacement Rear diff mounts (the ones that face the rear that is NOT Aluminium/metal like the pic below? Im thinking something by the likes of polyurethane? pic below is poached from google but you get the idea.. http://www.mvpmotorsports.com/Merchant/010122192.jpg
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Thanks David, I've always know that the UK spec tanks were bigger than the Jspecs by about 10 litres if I remember correctly. You link however doesn't mention anything about flushing out the tank or did I miss it?? I have been drinking quite a lot tonight.
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Thanks Hartmann.
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Thanks Hartmann, so it could easily be pressure washed and aired to dry?
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I was thinking of removing my fuel tank and giving it a flush and renewing my fuel lines before I start up my TT lump. My question is... are our fuel tanks completely hollow (allowing it to be pressure washed easily) or do they have that honeycomb like foam stuff inside them that stops the fuel from slushing about?
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oh and don't panic there will be plenty of them about,
