adi

Most of the time you'll be fine.. the idea of checking the flow both pre turbo and post turbo is to make sure you have connected everything exactly and not squashed any gaskets etc preventing oil flow... or maybe left a leak causing oil pressure drop to the turbos. Turbo technics will supposedly invalidate the warranty if you dont follow this procedure.. Dont worry, if you hadnt done it right you'd know about it by now

Thats nothing.. i floss between the spokes and behind the badges..

Blimey, thats the absolute minimum you should do..

They can get well clogged.. i clean behind mine every time i wash it just to make sure..

You dont 'blled' the turbos when fitting them, you just have to make sure they're full of oil when you're refitting them... something the garage that replaced the old on your mk3 obviouslt failed to do. When refitting them, the preocedure is to fill the units with oil, fit them to the car, run the car on stater motor to get the oil pumped around the turbo casing, check to make sure the oil is returning out of the turbo return oil pipes, then start the car... otherwise you have a dead turbo within minutes. I was totally paraniod when replacing mine.. my mechanic mate got well pissed off as i made triple sure the little buggers had oil in them. As for drainng oil from the turbos on an oil change, this would do more harm than good and is pointless.

You dont 'bleed' the turbos when fitting them, you just have to make sure they're full of oil when you're refitting them... something the garage that replaced the old one your mk3 obviously failed to do. Draining the turbos on an oil change would do more harm than good (unlesss you went through the refill procedure every time)and is pointless. When refitting turbos, the precedure is to fill the units with oil, fit them to the car, run the car on stater motor to get the oil pumped around the turbo casing, check to make sure the oil is returning out of the turbo return oil pipes, then start the car... otherwise you have a dead turbo within minutes. I was totally paraniod when replacing mine.. my mechanic mate got well pissed off as i made triple sure the little buggers had oil in them.

aaahh i never knew that..doesnt the mkiv manual use normal synthetic gearoil? Ie compatible with redline?

It seems virtually all toyota manual boxes suffer from this.. the mk3 did it and even my old mans 99 avensis does it. You could try redline MT90 fluid , as this often does wonders for the problem.

Cheers Pete. Im actually trying to replace my 1bar map with something able to measure my increased boost of around 18-19 psi, hence the 2JZ map may be perfect. This coupled with an SAFC and bigger injectors should workout nicely. Cheers adi

Hi all, i'm shortly to fit an ATF transmission oil cooler, but i was wondering... I've recently put £130 worth of transmission fluid in it, obviously i dont fancy doing it again, so how easy is it to plug the pipes at the radiator whilst i connect the extension piping to them? Are these pipes normally flexy enough to perhaps fit a clamp? or should i plug them at the gearbox end? Any procedures i shoulf follow? Cheers for any info you can offer.. adi

Cheers guys, do you know if the voltage at 1.25 bar is 5v? And whether or not it is a linear relationship between pressure and voltage? Ps if i sound like i know what im on about.. its a mistake.. i dont.

Does anyone know what the max readable pressure is for the j-spec MAP sensor? Am i right in thinking around 1.3 bar? does it still work in the normal 5v way? Basically i need to change my 1 bar MAP at some point, but a 2 bar will give me too much voltage loss to the ECU, so im trying to find an inbetween.

Heres their website. VM transmission products And if you do decide to use them, order the T-IV from toyota beforehand as they dont keep it in stock. Justr realised they do a 'torque converter remanufacture facility'.. sounds useful whatever it is

took them about 2-3 hours if i recall... obviously if they find a prob it'll take them longer.

Ps they charged me around £60-80 for a full flush and service/checkover.

The sensor should be on the bulkhead roughly in line with the inlet manifold. Little pipe going to it.. its only a little box about 1" square.

There is a very knowledgeable and reputable company that does nothing but autobox work. Not far from you (i think) in Cannock in staffs- VM Transmission Products (01543 270555) are highly recommended and can sort out any problems.. they *really* know their gearboxes including the A340E used in your supe. They can do a full flush,service and diagnosis for a very very reasonable price. Give them a call and ask their advice about your prob. A call to the company and a full flush should sort you out. for a full flush you'll need about 16 litres (£125 worth) even though the box only holds around 8 litres. part number - "Toyota Type T-IV ATF Fluid - 08886-81015" make sure it comes in a black can with red writing or its not the right stuff. It seems a full flush may be the way to go as if your mechanic put Dex II or III in it wont be compatible with the old type T-IV (yet the *new* T-IV is compatible with dexII). You should really think about flushing anyway on a box which is a good few years old as part of the mainenance of the car. adi

Its not massive.. the actual core is 200x120x35... but i can get it for next to nothing .. and with a new rad shortly to be winging its way from america i need to save all the pennies i can

My mate has this one i can have.. never been used.. think its a normal oil cooler though as opposed to tranny oil.. but will it do the job ok? (I've put a bic pen in for size comparison)

Okay cheers Martin.. that'll make everything a lot easier. one more question though.. does it have to be mounted in the front of the cars airflow or can it sit behind the rad?

It is ? howcome? I thought the transmission oil has to go in the water line for cooling/warming of the oil?

I may have to fit an oil cooler for the auto box. Can anyone suggest what type i should fit on the 1JZ (for the sake of argument its virtually the same as a 2JZ, the gearbox is virtually the same as well). Can i get away with just fitting an air cooled one? Will it *have* to go in the water line? Does anyone supply these on here? What about cost ? i can get my hands on an air cooled oil cooler (like a little radiator really) is there any reason why i just cant fit this in the oil lines? cheers for the help. adi

I ran my stock 2.5TT (virtually the same engine) for ages on 95 ron, did no harm whatsoever. With higher boost i now use super. Dont panic, i dont think you did any harm.

okay cheers for the info martin..

Cheers, were would this attach ? i presume it would be air fed and be seperate to the rad.. or would it somehow be plumbed into the water line?