adi

I've got the flare in mine, i seem to be missing a bit? Ive just got the six inch long bit but the diagram seems to suggest there is another bit..

It looks like a piece of japanese bondage equipment, left over from some sordid night of adulterous japanese passion on your passenger seat..

Which terminals do you lot short out to find the gearbox diagnostics? I've tried E1 and Tt as described in the mk3 TSRM, but it doesnt work. The gearbox and engine are more mkiv than mk3 so im going to try the mkiv connections, but i dont know which ones they are? cheers adi

It was the same on my stock turbos though, and the stock units had virtually no lag whatsover..

its always been like it.. had it over a year.. very very difficult to find info on the gearbox..

Hi all, im trying to determine whether i have a problem with either my gearbox or engine. Is it possible for an engine to give poor or incorrect power delivery below say 3000 rpm, yet sound, run and act as normal within this rev range? Over 3000 rpm i have all the power in the world. Basically, i get poor standing starts (up to 3 seconds to hit 30 mph), cant power launch, cant spin the rears with my foot on the brake, even at 2400 revs and with light braking. I get the feeling its the autobox but most people have suggested it could be an engine problem. Like i say after 3000 rpm i have all the power in the world, yet when im in the problem area (0-3000) the car revs and idles sweet, doesnt splutter and is very smooth and sounds sweet and normal.. but is it possible that its somehow not delivering the power it should beow this point? Or is it more likely to be gearbox? Im convinced its the gearbox, but need to be sure. Any help appreciated. cheers

ah yes but ive still got another 10 psi in reserve after that

hmm dont think i'll bother then as i need to run around 18 psi.

Are these any good? I can pick one up cheapish but dont know much about them

Depends on the build.. i've got turb tech hybrids and supposedly they are good for 550 at the crank.. others may be less, may be more.

out of interest what was the noise?

You need to get it checked by someone who knows as it could also be a blown pipe or similar.. Chris W is only an hour away from you (maybe less).

yep thats what causes it, and yes it is bad.. but if they have to be replaced think of it like this.. its an excuse for better turbos ! I had both mine done last year but whilst it was expensive , its transformed the car.

dont worry too much until it starts smoking... or it gets unbearably loud..

its a replacement for your AFM (if you have UK spec) with tuning capabilities !

yep you need the new stuff.. the part number above is correct. Its the new type T-iv which came out in may of last year, and unlike thprevious stuff is compatible with other non t-iv fluids, such as dex II and type t-II. for a full flush youll need up to 16 litres, though you may get 3 or 4 litres back after the flush..dependingon how well they do it. Cost will be over £100 for the fluid im afraid. These guys do a great service and full flush and for a good price.. around £60, but you have to supply the fluid. http://www.vmtp.com

Worth going for the complete change if you dont mind spending £125 on fluid. Part number 08886-81015 Makre sure its a black and red can when it comes in (this is the new stuff that came out in May 2002). i know a *very* reputable autobox specialist (probably the best in the country) who will do a *complete* flush, gasket and filter change, and general check over for £60.. based in Norton Canes near Cannock (not far from you). They really know their stuff. Cant recommend them highly enough.. i've taken all my autos there. You'll need to supply them with 12-16 litres of fluid from toyota. http://www.vmtp.com 01543 270555 I had mine done there.. superb service.

youd need to take the pipework off going to the turbos.. if its anything like the 1JZGTE then its quite a lengthy job. Even then youd need a normal turbo to compare it to.

mine have cause i fitted them ! Sometimes the hybrids have a plate stamped on them saying the maker etc and thats a giveaway.. turbo technics normally do this. Of course, this is a giveaway to the insurance so im lucky in that they didnt fit one to mine

It was a bit hard to tell from your post, but does it *only* do it on startup, or when youre sitting idling letting the turbos cool down? First one is valve seals as others have said, second one is turbo seals. I've had both symptoms, one is now fixed, the other isnt Vlave seals yet to be done. PS valve seals are cheaper than turbos. Chris W can do the head on repair jobbie.

Whatever happens, dont let it idle, go indoors, and then go back out an hour and a half later to see it still ticking over...

By sheer coincidence i saw a countach replica today driving round town when i was chrissy shopping... White one (looked like it had just pulled out of the garage it was so clean).. I presume it was a replica anyway, as the engine sounded more like a 4 pot with a straight through on it...

whats the donut test then? I have trouble trying to get the back end spin out of a junction.. plenty of power but with a torsen diff it seems a bit hard. Could the torsen be to blame or would it be the 2200 stall on the auto? Somehow i get the feeling i wouldnt be able to donut very well.. Also, isnt drifting a bit difficult with a torsen? (PS those amongst you with LSD's - i think you all have torsens dont you?).

yep true.. but the gearbox used in the late 2.5tt's is something between the mkiii and the mkiv box.. called an A342E with both 'power' and 'manu' switches. I cant get any info on it as it was only used in this model. Although i aggree you're prob right and the kickdown in manu works differently.

It does a bit more than that as well !... I know my manu is working but i still get a kickdown on a foot back in certain situations.. never figured out why..