Andy Blyth

Does anybody know the relationship between the crank and cam sensors and the engine cycle on a TT? I've looked far and wide for info. So far I've determined that the crank sensor has 24 falling edges per engine cycle (12 per rev) and the cam sensors are 1 falling edge per cycle. The two cam sensors seem to be about 360 degrees apart. I understand that one of the cam sensors indicate that the next edge on the crank is so many degrees BTDC #1. Which of the two cam sensors is this, and at what angle BTDC #1 does the crank reference occur at? Please don't make me take my engine apart to find out! The service manual is no help. Cheers Andy

The two halves are joined using splines just forward of the centre bearing. There must be about 20 different ways the two halves could fit together if you kept the gearbox end steady and rotated the diff end. I made the mistake of putting a matchmark on the rubber boot that covers the splines. I forgot that the boot rotates quite easily. Doh! I've not noticed any vibrations from the prop after just putting them together without marks.

To allow for axial movement when the chassis is flexing?

I like the way you're setting these prices! Bookmarked for later...

The CD that shipped with my FIC was a few versions out of date. You can get the latest software here.

33 [N.m] / 25 [ft.lbf]

It is a vent also! It gently sucks the cabin air over the sensor to get a more accurate temperature reading. The sensor is the little round black object in the middle of the vent.

It's almost directly behind the grill - see below the white connector in this pic:

Cabin air temperature sensor for the air conditioning

It's not that much of a ball ache to get out, although I guess ball ache is subjective! Just 4 bolts on the mounting points, unscrew the rack from the two rod ends, slide the steering column out (probably the hardest bit to be fair), 1 electrical connector and 2 hydraulic unions.

I would consider looking at cam timing and spark timing. Make sure the marks on the cam and crank pulleys line up and also get a timing light to check the ignition advance at idle.

It's the AEM FIC. The internal pressure sensor hasn't given a reading below 58kpa since new. I rang them up and told them about the problem, they gave me a few tests to try but without success so it's gone back for a warranty repair. I'm pretty happy with their service so far.

I've just sent mine back too, AEM quote 5-7 business days to fix. HTH

The pic is wrong. That pipe goes to the charcoal canister.

It's 78180-1B080

14mm

Hi Chris How much do you charge for the radiator for a pre-facelift, manual TT? I'm pretty sure it's the thicker style of radiator. The parts catalogue says 16400-46310. I was removing my crank pulley at the weekend and after seeing the back of the current radiator, I'm considering replacing it before it goes. Cheers Andy

The SEAT Leon 2.0 TFSI will happily run 22psi boost at 10.5:1 compression ratio (REVO stage 1) with V-power. Sorry.

90119-08499

100% the same They have the same part numbers. Front 47330-14010 Rear 90947-02745

Tyres rubbing on the arches? Are you going up / down a bank as you drive in and out of your drive?

Try checking the crank position sensor and the two cam position sensors. There's a manual on here somewhere with the expected resistance values. If you have access to an oscilloscope, try looking at each of the three waveforms with the engine running. You may have a weak signal from one of the sensors. It might be a pain to do but it's worth a try.

The EPC shows a connector lower down in the left rear quarter. You'll probably need to remove the large plastic side panel on the inside to access it:

Here's a picture of the bracket: I can't find it in the EPC either. Looking at the brake hose diagram it calls up 4 bolts to attach the two brackets to the front subframe: I have suspicions that this braket only comes as part of a hose assembly.

To get the valve apart, I found that water pump pliers had a much better grip on the two small screws than any screwdriver I had.