Chris and Alana

47k

Im sorry for the quick hijack but where abouts from the north east are you all from? I very rarely see another soop yet it seems there are plenty about.

Iv had my car since july but Iv been driving my MG about lately as im trying to sell it. Its a TT, check out my garage. Yeah good idea, I would be up for it, when?

Yeah where abouts in newcastle are you steve? Anywhere near Westerhope? Il keep an eye out 4 ya.

What boost does the supplied restrictor ring restrict the boost to?

Thanks guys. I was thinking of a second decat and a miami gt exhaust and was hoping to get about 1bar. If I do take both cats out can I still run on the standard fuel pump for a lttle while?

Yeah the HKS SSQV is a better unit with its pull type technology. If you use a push type you have a spring that opens the piston at a set pressure. If you are at low boost and take the foot off the dump valve may not open and the excess air gets sent back through the turbos, as a result they stall and take time to spool again. it also doesnt do the turbos much good. I think im right there........

Both help turbo life thats why there is one as standard. They just do different things. Standard re-circ = it dumps the excess boost back into the intake system, this only helps if you take your foot off and then back on straight away as you have a load of air ready to go back into the system. if you take your foot off or dip the clutch and change gear or take time in putting your foot back down the excess air just goes out the intake system (air filter) Atmospheric = does just the same apart from all the excess air is dumped into the atnmosphere (non into the intake) To be honest I dont think you would notice any difference. Any experts out there to correct anything......

I have a pretty much stock tt aprat from an apexi induction kit. I still had the stock dump valve and chaged it for a HKS SSQV. Since changing I didnt notice any difference in performance or spool up time between the atmospheric dump valve (HKS one) and the standard re-circulating one. I think its all down to personnal preference and whether or not you want the WHOOOOOSE noise or not. Im very happy with mine

thanks steviekid

I may be tempted to go full BPU Iv already got a HKS SSQV and apexi power intake. I checked out my SMIC and all the fins are still there so my intercooler should be up for it. I take it I should get a walbro fuel pump first then buy an exhaust and decat. What do you think. Am I missing anything? I wont need a EBC on a J-spec to reach BPU with the correct restrictor ring will I. (I know I will need to change the plugs, I will do after exhaust) Thanks guys for all the info.

Also can you get restrictor rings to hold the boost at 1.1 bar?

So even with the first cat in turbos can still overboost. I was under the impression that leaving the first cat in would allow the tubbies to produce 1.0 bar but I dont know if that is true. I also thought thought the first cat would leave enough back pressure to stop over boosting. If they over boost anyway with thje first cat left in I might as well do a full decat and use a restictor ring but I was only wanting to produce about 1.0 bar boost?

Im going to get a cat back exhausts (hopefully a Miami GT) after christmas and a second decat (keeping the first cat). I would like to know what the boost level will increase to with these mods. there must be lots of you guys nd girls out there with the first cat still in. Iv searched for an answer but give up and thought I would ask instead. The only thing I found was 'You might as well take the first out aswell'. (not to helpfull) I found that someone said his boost went upto 1.1bar and another comment that said it wont increase the boost much. Its a bit varied.

hi guys, since buying my supra in july Iv decided I dont need two cars so my MG is up for sale. Its a 2003 ZS 1.8 and has only done 27000miles. It has all the usual MG spec like half leather ABS etc. Iv added BK 18" alloys, its lowered 20mm on MG X-power springs Window tints black lexus style rear lights Piper back box Powertech induction Kit Pioneer CD Player JBL Components in the front and 6x9's in the rear shelf Im after £4500 any one interested?

Sounds good. Now this may sound a bit wierd but is there a post code for the stadium of light because I dont know how to get there.

what time does everyone depart from this venue and whats the usual turnout? Im just asking coz Iv never been to a meet yet and Im very eager. Also I dont finish work till 5 on sundays (sucks I know)

Well my soop has 47 thousand miles on the clock and I was just going to get a well known brand like castrol etc. However after reading threads I found that a 5w40 fully synthetic is what is recomended and there seems to be a lack of that grade apart from the Halfords oil. I didnt seem to sure if I should use halfords own brand oil but when you look at the specs it seems spot on and its not a synthetic blend either. (as far as I know) Apart from that I was thinking Castrol edge 0w40 but I read on here 0w is too thin and can leek past oil seels etc. Could someone in the know please solve this and explain a reason why we shouldnt buy the cheaper halfords oil at half the price that meets the required specs for a 'good oil' and also does 0w40 do any harm or would you stay clear?

Halfords oils are made by comma and they have the same specs and according to the link, those specs are the ones to stick to as a guide to a good oil. Im no expert at all but why pay £45 on a bottle of oil that has the same specs as the halfords or comma oil at maybe £20 a bottle?

thats just like mine, I put it down to lag but it takes ages for it to gain revs and change gear. then I get loads of power after gear change. the car works fine from a stand still aswell. nail it from stop and i get both tubbies doing there business just fine. Maybe its just an anomily with the auto box

here yo go. Im also selling them if your interested

Hi guys, I need to sell these to make room. Im selling them as i have put 18's on and got an apexi power intake. All 4 alloys are in good condition. They have Toyo Proxes T1-R's on the front (225/50/16) with about 6-7mm of tread left on both and Bridgestone Potenza G3's on the rears (245/50/16) one has 5-6mm of tread the other has about 4mm. Im after £100 (postage is £35 to just about anywhere in mainland UK but you can pick them up if you like) I also have the standard air box for sale. This is the whole unit including the plastic intake. Im also selling it with an apexi panel filter which has been in for about 4months (still in good condition) looking for £55

funny because before I took my soop off the road to sell my other car I have the same problem and was wondering what it was. I can be sitting there driving along at 60ish mash my foot to the floor and it will drop a gear or two and the engine will rev its tits off at about 5.5-6k ish and slowly kreep to 7k without much power. It then changes gear and BOOM both tubbies come online and mash me to my seat. I thought its a bit dodgy if going to overtake and theres no power. I have a 93 tt GZ auto with only 47 thousand miles so I dont think its my box slipping or at least I hope not as it hasnt done many miles. Anyway I hope you find the answer as I also need to know whats going on

no, i didnt think it would do much good and Ive already spent days getting rid of all the overspray and sorting the wings out as the paint was down to the primer on some patches. I was thinking about complaining but I really didnt want them to have the car back after i had complained. The only thing I can think of is that I got the apprentice, lol.

Yeah but like I said before they are not a back street garrage they are a well known importer and sell good quality cars, they do all there own mechanical work, god forbid, and body work and kjust because it was £120 instead of £180 - 200 or wot ever it would cost from a dealer etc they should still do a good job. If they said yeah by the way Il bodge it for ya for £100 + the vat I woulkd of said on ya bike but I was told from a good businnes (Vine Place) which have been around for years that they are always good and reliable. Company is well known and normally respected for good quality cars ( and work I suppose as they do everything ) - Price was right - I bought my car from there and had no reason not to trust them - was told 'they' (must be the guys that do body work) are always good and reliable and all that = the ultimate shit job