tDR

Some people also run those same Single Turbo cars at low boost / off boost 99% of the time, never partake in anything remotely Motorsport related and / or just polish up their shiny shiny under the bonnets rather than take their cars out and give them a properly good spanking frequently. Thinking it through though, a BPU car generates a lot of heat by virtue of it's small and increasingly ineffecient Turbos - the higher the boost, the truer this becomes. The same is not necessarily true for the Single Turbo cars. It also depends on the traffic scenarios you find yourself in just how well a car with an FMIC will cope RE: the cooling system.

^^ yeah that. Mine was a bit of a pain to bleed through after changing the rad. As Chris points out, it's well worth doing the diagnostic tests as a first port of call if your car has already had a proper roasting as the heat could have warped the mating face on the head allowing hot combustion gases into the Cooling system (sniffer test shows this) or Oil (creamy mayo like substance under the rad cap shows that). From my POV the standard rad was not up to the job with what is effectively a massive airflow blockage in front of it in the form of a Front Mount Intercooler. That was at strong BPU power levels on the strip. A brand new OEM rad may be more up to the job than an old one but neither were designed with reduced frontal airflow in mind - a Fluidyne or similar uprated rad makes a now marginal Cooling situation safer IMO.

I didn't like the occasional temp rise on mine after fitting a FMIC - my solution was a Fluidyne uprated Aluminium rad. No issues thereafter with lots of drag abuse in Summer. Cheers, Brian.

Hi and welcome to the club!

It stands for "Midship Runabout 2seater", actually

Talk is cheap. You talk a good game.

It'll only have been 4 years!! ;-O

Not gonna mention the full drag slicks either Only way to really compare is on the same strip on the same day with the same type of tyres - road / drag radials / slicks.

Similar but doesn't quite fit IIRC. ST205 discs are 315mm vs Supra with export spec brakes at 320mm, again IIRC.

OMG - side on it looks like a big S13! A very nice looking one though.

Mmmm nice ass Ibrar! Congrats on the feature - quite the car you've built there

How useable are the rear seats BTW? Kids only or you could get 2x 6' adults in the back comfortably without compromising front occupant legroom?

Congrats Johnny - looks a nice one!

Any mechanical spray lubricant would do the trick.

Big congrats Stu - well in!

It'll have a big sticker on it saying "aftermarket, ya pie!" Seriously - bright coloured clutch cover plate typically, rather than OEM black.

He told you lol - the gearbox bell housing has an inspection plate on either side you can remove from underneath the car to have a look at the clutch without removing the box.

Doesn't sound like the flywheel 'whir' you get from lightened units - more like a multi plate clutch type noise. You'd have a lightswitch for a clutch pedal though engagement wise. Get under the car and check all bell-housing bolts are done up tight and that the trans mount to the rear of the box is secure / not worn. Failing that - outside chance of something front suspension related post HSD install? Other than the coilover units themselves. Did you have any bolts left over? Was this noise present beforehand? Cheers, Brian.

Lol - I found linking spanners difficult at first too

Looking good Geo - glad the guide is proving useful. Love the laptop on roof for reference pic Stick any thoughts on the suspension change in the how to thread - those look a slightly different model of HSD's going by the colour scheme. Your suspension may have been off before if the drop links were easy - they've been a PITA on most Toyota's we've worked on. Rears are a piece of piss by comparison so should be a nice finish for you guys

Nicely done Geo - congrats!

Like I said, the real concern is detonation with increased boost. The only way to fix that is with a mappable piggyback or standalone ECU. This will lower the risk you run of engine damage. That said, most BPU cars run for many miles without lunching their engines. How hard they are driven is anyone's guess. The most common failure with increased boost is the Turbos themselves. As a side note - if you're still on your original fuel pump it's worth replacing to ensure a consistent fuel supply. Typically people switch to a higher flow item like that on the UK MKIV Supra or a Walbro 255 LPH job.

Typically yes, although there is adjustment in some I've seen - GReddy BCC for example. The lower the voltage you set them to clamp at, the less fuel your injectors will put out as a maximum.

Correct - stock JDM ECU opens the taps 100% just before fuel cut, when the stock MAP sensor sees pressure equating to a voltage above ~ 4v. Hence you use a mappable ECU to never let these things happen until unsafe boost levels where you can still have safety cuts. An FCD is cruder though is effective - it just caps the voltage the stock ECU sees.

Not necessary - there's too much fuel available even at BPU, there are gains to be had by being able to trim out fuel mapping wise. For safety you want to be retarding timing in places at BPU level rather than adding more fuel than is available with the standard injectors. Spend your cash on a decent piggyback or ideally standalone ECU rather than larger injectors out of the block. Cheers, Brian.