H7ERO

A few wheel nut sets from over the years im having a clear out . . . . RAYS engineering aluminium wheel nut set in black anodised finish including the Rays 7 sided locking nut system . . . probably some of the nicest wheel nuts you can get . . £60 posted MC guard locking nut set sleeved type (standard toyota style) and a tapered style (most aftermarket wheels) £15 posted for each set A few sets of toyota OEM standard wheel nuts £15 posted (and loads of sets of old school toyota chrome ones) Im sure iv got a spare set of those 'tuner' style nuts for the with the allen key fitting £25 Also i have a set of BRAND NEW TTE nuts i never used here 60 degree taper so suitible for most aftermarket wheels . . high quality nuts supiled with TTE wheels very shiney too! £17 delivered thanks for looking If anyone has some bolt on spacers 20mm ish for sale id be up for a deal location harrow NW london (pls text and il get back to you asap)

hi did you get my pm? i need a few bits can i call you

I concur sliders seized on that side. . just get some 17s and have your uk stuff fitted in one go why waste time repairing what your going to change anyway . . .

iv been researching it too . . . cant find the difinate answer even on the tech sheet for the silkolene but it does look exactly the same as that grease and the reason i had it in the firstplace was i was sold it as rubber sear seal friendly for a previouse project its done now i can get a new mc or seal kit as a reserve

first try bleeding the system . . might just not be pushing the fork far enough due to air od poor fluid condition then it could be the release bearing . . does it get hard to select gear once youve been driving for a while? gearbox oil change can also make a big difference bushings on the shifter . . toyota ones can get pretty deformed in some cases (on my w58 the bushings which suport the remote shifter asembly had disintergrated causing a very poor shift) i would check all these things befor taking the box appart

Silkolene rg pro. . . I was going to leave it un greased as i didnt want to use the wrong stuff just lubricate with fluid but the manual stated to grease the seals. Your making me paranoid now il have NO brakes in the morning

Striped n cleaned it with compressed air there was some dirt in there nothing major but the return hole is tiny so could have been blocked. everything looked good in the cylinder seals pretty minty so just re greased and put back together Bleeding the mc is a pain tho so i resorted to back bleeding it with a syringe which did the job I didnt have enough fluid to fully bleed the brakes system and then went to work but it seemed to be working ok now even though it was a bit soft from air trapped in it so fingers crossed thats it and thanks again

THANKS VERY MUCH just needed someone who had the symtoms befor

yes fluid is condition is terible . . . i guess this means MC off . . strip clean rebuild? ill probably start now . .

try a clutch specialist there should be somewhere only selling clutches they can match the parts you need but they will need to see the old one also when you say its bad but not slipping what do you mean? this could mean the system just needs bleeding or the release bearing

ok this could work out well iv got two mk3 supra shells i need to weigh in iv got two places to weigh them in in a 5 mile radius, if u can come rnd one day we can start rolling the arches once its done can we weigh n the shells? (save me towing them) if u need tyres changeing bring them too as i got my own machine etc . . . im in harrow

NA manual 1995 Scenario 1 last night: got in the car to get some petrol distance of petrol station 1.5 miles away. initially the pedal felt as normal, after 2 mins of driving i could feel the pedal becoming much harder with no give at all ie if you just touch it it was like braking with the force of an emergency stop. i tried to clear it by doing a few emergency stops using the abs to pump the system seemed to work initially for a brief while. by the time i was at the petrol station i could feel the brakes were binding on as id have to use more gas to manouver. (brake disc temperature similar to after a 30 min comute ie warm not to hot to touch but definalty v warm now this is the wierd bit: stopped the car to fill up left it for a at least 10 mins to have a good look for kinked brake lines inpsect the servo etc now when i got back n to drive home it was almost as if the brakes were locked really struggled almost using full power to get the 1.5 miles home. Scenario 2 obviously i had to check this out thouroughly so i put the car on stands (under to wishbones to mimic ride height) discs turning freely by hand, checked lock to lock no kinks or twist in flexi lines no damage to hard lines no visible damage to abs pump or master cyl pumped braked pedal felt normal as with engine off ie hardens up after 3 or so pumps ( engine on now) discs still turning fine again testing lock to lock pedal felt normal as the engine warmed up it became stiffer but still turnable by hand so i was scratching my head for a few mins the engine warmed up (fans came on -ive got electric) went to try and trun the disc again it very stiff to turn! the cars driven no where its on stands and the calipers are cold. turned the steering lock to lock and now they were well and truly stuck on unturnable by hand. So i disconected the brake sevro- no change tried pumping pedal etc lock to lock no change disconected (unpluged) ABS again pumped pedal lock to lock no change i was able to turn the disc by putting the wheel back on and using force but it was obviously binding tight now. Bonnet was open temperature of master cylinder nominal and same for abs (ie they went warm from the engine but may have warmed slightly only 2-4 deg at most) calipers cold .two days ago i did a drift day at santa pod 120mile round trip and dove the hell out of it brakes were fine the whole day Stumped for now! im thinking ABS pump siezed? or master cyl seized? anyone exerience similar probs any ideas

V good price someone snap this up . .

good work there! i know after a long day it can be so futrating when she wont fire but its aways something simple , fuel, timing, plugs/ignition etc On the looks side of things why not go for a bold colour no one else seems to be using this year? you need your car to stand out to gain suport and catch the eye of the judges (yellow maybe??) and your sponsors clearly displyed too much designs and graphics can look cluttered from spectator judge distance . . and the 19s look great i like the gunmetal colour too. . will you be able to keep them in tyres tho? and how does she drive/ drift on them? If you really want to stance it out u need some spaces on the front and the arches rolled so you can lower it more (you can borrow my arch roller as a contribution to your effor!)

NW london

I had 6 a couple of days ago with the pasenger seat empty and could still see out the back jack and tools etc all fitted fine i think i could have got 1 more in the back too . . . . . and one on the passenger seat too but 6 is noramlly enough for a drift day

discs like the supras dont warp but they do gain deposites which give the judder, I had exactly the same in my supra i just drove through it then, every time they cooled down it went away again, (nurburgring and fast road) (i was also getting this in normal driving when i went touring in the supra down hills with the car fully loaded . . big hils mind you like the alps) once i had removed the backing plates this doubled the time befor the judder would occur (best mod for free) then i added cooling ducts this gave me another bit of time (j spec calipers and discs) just drive through it or buy a better set up theres a new set of k sports in the forsale section at the moment, or keron has a pair of uk spec fronts . . . a worth while upgrade for a track driven supra now i have ls400 calipers but havnt tested them to their limit yet

Technical issues asside Na engines are disposable in value 100-150 second hand, If I thought cams would do for me what i wanted i would try them, even though it seems a bodge what they do (welding then regrinding) is comon industry practice and as mentioned befor several compnanies would do it in the uk and i would imagine mnny racing teams use reground cams (especially when they maybe testing several profiles) without issue The major issue would be longevity in the valvetrain but this is comprimised anyway with any 'larger cam' profile who really cares? its a cheap car with a cheap and easy engine to replace and you want to see what you can get out of it just do it Iv driven/ worked a few cars which have used a rising rate FPR to provide the extra fueling too with success (a hell of a lot cheaper than a programable ECU) again might seem like a bodge but it does work I personally would steer clear of TTC as a friend of mine has had a lot of problems with their products, especially when u long established uk companies speicialise in this area I have been personally researching cams extensivly for my V8 as i want to develop NA power i fitted cams befor to a 4A engine its not what you would describe as bang for buck IMO, I dont know if id do it or can justify it again

http://www.polybush.co.uk/ they sell bushes separtly by dimension, when iv needed bushes iv looked up the closest thing here and used that they can also be machined (which iv done and can confirm (they lathe ok but do cut best with a sharp knife) for a satisfactory result

'ebay' and 'people willing to pay ' do you really mean http://www.ebay.co.uk????? or is there some new version?

Made its first 'propper' outing today at santa pod for dwyb . . . Im very very happy only some minor things to be fixed otherwise flawless running, and a fast drift car too, much more traction than the mk3, and of course the best sound out there! brake servo assist hose popped off a couple of times making if feel like brakes had been lost, a bit unnerving when brakeing down from a 3rd gear drift into a reducing radius bend! but an easy fix with better clips which i had with me slight power steering leek from the cooler . . Man I hate PAS iv actualy spent an equal amount of time fixing it than the whole swap and thats the truth! Iv got a vid but i filmed it upside down so i need to sort that somehow . . if anyone knows how or can do it pls let me know . . or turn your laptop upside dn or watch it on your phone . . Ilicos im gonna start charging for test rides! its that good now! but u get one for free!

no sunglasses found . . could be under the passenger seat tho i havnt looked there . . shes on the road now! breaking the peace

check out motorsport tool almost identical wheel for £50 notes iv bought 3 now for friends n my own cars very nice wheel i just changed the horn button to bling it up a bit http://www.motorsport-tools.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=17697_17700&products_id=246873

made a cold air sheild today, fitted a fan controller a static sound clip . . . il have to get a tunnle run next so you can hear it on a down shift, and the crackle on the over run . . [video=youtube;TSyB9-SzBmE]