hodge

P.M'd

P.m'D

Am I correct in thinking that when you remove the 1st cat the sensor which goes into it must be unplugged and removed from the drivers floorpan and the hole filled with a gromit or something. If the sensor is removed from the cat but not unplugged inside the car would this effect the running of the car.

Can someone please tell me where these go to. Im I correct in thinking that 1 goes to the underside of the throttle body and 1 goes to the intake plenum.

Im busy putting my intake manifold back on. There is a black canister that attatches to the wiring harness directly below the intake manifold. Can anyone explain what its for. There are 2 small vac pipes which go into the canister, it has an electrical connector on the side and 2 vac pipes coming out of it.

My engine has just been rebuilt so it wont have any water in it at all. Whats the best way to fill and bleed the system.

Can someone tell my what pressure to torque a J-Spec TT head down to.

How do I cnow how much need cutting out or rolled. I dont want to mess my arches up.

bumpsky

Im after the 2 water sensor connectors that go onto the sensors on the top u-bend water pipe as mine are bust. Cheers

When fitting these do the arches need pulling out/rolled out to meet the fenders. I bought some from Miami-gt, there a perfect fit apart from the arch doesnt meet the bottom of the overfender which is why I thought the arch would need stretching. am I right.

bump

As above. Would prefer second hand but good fitment.

Thanks for the offer Nic. I needed 1 straight away so ive ordered 1 from my local motor factors.

Ive ordered a new water pump anyway just to be safe and will check the radiator tomorrow.

Not as much as I do mate. You wont believe the amount of money ive thown into my engine and it still aint running.

Ive removed the top water pipe at the back of the engine that goes into the heater matrix and theres no water in there. The top rad pipe had no water in but the radiator was full. I took the top pipe off the water pump (l bend to top rad pipe) and expected the water pump to be full, it was damp but not full. I bought the engine complete with low milage. As I said it ran great for about 15 mins sounded great. It wasnt reved hard or driven which is why im really reluctant to think its piston rings or a broken block. Is a blocked radiator a common thing. How do I check it.

As above.

Ive replaced my engine after the I had my old 1 was knackered. The only thing that I used from my old engine was the water pump. The car fired up great but only lasted 15 mins tiking over and cut out. The engine had seriously overheated hence why it cut out and wouldnt start again. I left it for a day and went back to it to see if it started and wouldnt even try, starter just span. Ive done a compression and leak test on it and found that only 1 cylinder has compression, and the leak test wont show pressure on any cylinders, air seems to be leaking from pot 3. Further investergation finds that there was no water in the engine but the rad was full this is why it overheated. Ive taken the cam covers off to have a look and I cant see anythink wrong. Everything is fine under there, and moving freely. Im thinking the water pump isnt doing its job. Ive never known an engine to loose compression on all cylinders. Does this piont towards the head gasket or something more serious.

What about the tapping, should I be worried.

Ive just fitted a new engine. I fired it up today and sounded great. When putting all together I noticed the water temp sensor connector was broken. So until I get a new connector I put the spade connectors on the pins just to get me away. I think I may have put them on the wrong way. the engine reved great and ticked over fine for around 15 mins. I gave it a little blip on the throttle and i had a little tap at the top back of the engine and it cut out and wouldnt start again. Just spinning starter wouldnt even try and start. The cam covers were really hot. I took the top water pipe off near the bulkhead and there was no water in there at all. There was no steam from anywhere. I did a fault code check and got codes 22 and 31. 22 being water temp sensor 31 being map sensor or safe mode (as ive been told). Ive disconnected the battery to reset the ECU and tomorrow in going to change the sensor wires over tomorrow and do another fault check. Im wondering is there is still some air into the system too which ill need to bleed off. Im just concerned about the tapping. It was litrally only 3 seconds max and then in cut out.

Cheers Homer. If the sensor wasnt being picked up by the ECU odviously it will overheat. but do you think after its overheated it will stop the car from starting.

Bump

My connector is broken off the sensor and im not sure which colour wire goes to which spade on the sensor. Ive just fitted a new engine, it fired up great but got really hot and cut out. my error codes were 22 which is water temp sensor and 31 which is map sensor but also could have occoured due to the engine getting far to hot. I was told somewhere that you get this code when the engine goes into a safe mode to prevent any damage.

Where the hell do I put the filter. I was going to put it somewhere in the engine bay but cant find anywhere to put it.