Steve W

I thought Toyota went to 17's so that they could use the larger diameter brake rotors etc ? ? It might not JUST be offset you need to worry about but diameter clearance as well ? ie. don't think 16's will clear SIZE of UK/bigger brakes ! (hope I'm wrong 'cos I've got the 16's) { I KNOW the mounting holes are the same though = PCD }

Exactly as Matt says:- When mine's cold (cold engine that is), the idle can be as high as ~1,600. If I put it into drive while it's still THAT high (ie. don't let it 'warm-up' at all first) it's quite a thud (not really a METALLIC clonk though). It also obviously 'sits down' quite suddenly as it's being held on the brake at quite high idle ! ! If I sit and let the engine warm up a bit (not really the box though ! ), so the idle drops to ~1.000/1,200, then it goes into drive fairly uneventfully I don't think the box fluid is going to start warming up much till you actually put it into drive/start moving ! If, however, it really IS a METALLIC clonk, then maybe something IS amiss. ie slight play in something ? Best let someone on here see if it sounds 'normal' soon ?

Exactly the reason I'm considering it Barry ! ! ROOM for BOOM ! !

ps.... IS anyone running WITHOUT their spare (with or without 'GOO'/compressor) ?

? I ? bought ? my ? keyboard ? at ? a ? computer ? warehouse ? sale. The ? 'sheepskinned' ? gentleman ? who ? sold ? it ? to ? me ? said ? only ? the ? BEST ? ones ? had ? 15 ? "?" ? keys ? [ I think it's that because I'm not a very literate individual I tend to emblazon my manuscripts with TONS OF BL**DY EXCLAMATION/PUNCTUATION MARKS - I do apawleejyze ?~&*!$£&*????????? ] ? ? ? ? Steve ? ? ? ? ps. by the way Martin: YES, and, YES.

TDi do/did their own one as well (or IS that the Walbro ? ). They say on their site that THAT one is cheaper than UK/US and flows more as well ? ? ? Obviously, I presume they ONLY provide more fuel IF required ? ? ie. the car has SAME consumption until 'extra' is needed ? ? It's just that it CAN deliver more when required ? ?

Anybody had FIRST-HAND experience of the 'instie-re-inflate-in-a-can' type thingies. You know, the can of compressed air with 'added' GOO that temporarily seals a puncture ? ? ? The Yanks seem all too keen to whip-out the spare to make room for plenty of sub-woofer space. That's a great idea given the already small hatch space, BUT, means using the aformentioned product and a mini-compressor as a 'get you to a garage' remedy ! ! I would assume it sort of works, BUT, have heard that tyre suppliers/repairers are NOT TOO CHUFFED if they have to play with a GUNKED tyre AND ALSO, the stuff makes puncture repairs difficult for the same reason ? [YES, I know most of you poo-poo repairs on 'sports' tyres, but for a get-you-home it may be essential]

MORE IMPORTANTLY.... If you do Oven-Chips at the same time, does it make your LIGHTS TASTE FUNNY . . . . . ? ? ? ? ?

Phil, do you mean SILVER ? ? If so, does anyone have the colour for the GREY as well (ie. Jap wheels ? ) mine were kerbed BEFORE I got it (HONESTLY) and I've tried the little brush-pots = nothing even close. [sorry to double-up on your thread Phil I've been too lazy to post the same question ? ? ! ! ] Hitch-a-ride-Steve....

Gavin's right, you EITHER use the steering wheel nut/spindle, OR, if it 'CAN'T' be altered that way (or the 'notches' don't give fine enough adjustments) the only way is by EQUALLY adjusting the track-rods both sides - and PREFERABLY retracking after just to make sure it's 'true'. { and, if the track-rods are seized it can mean oxy-acetylene-TIME } { although on Supras the tracking is probably checked/adjusted enough times to keep them 'free' - unlike a rep-mobile }

Probably will Pete, May be interested in dial faces, and also, one of your LUVERLY convertors/delimiters( ? it does delimit JAP limiter ? ). WOULD have gone for those 'Indiglo's but bit WIREY-UPPY (even MORE wires on/behind dash - bit much already ) How hard is it to self-fit your 'box-of-tricks' - I've wired spotlights/ speakers etc. but NOT an elecy'/mech' by a long shot ! ie. I can use pliers/screwdriver but NOT too keen on finding 'output volts' etc. ? ? ? Thanks, Steve. {ps. Would it be 'safer' for YOU to fit ? Do you ? How much ? Where ? etc. etc. }

What would you 'guess' (judge? ) the peg to be roughly ? 130, 140, 150 ? ? ? ie. are you artificially restricted by it ? [ is the rest of the 'unmarked' face the same RATIO do you think ie. could you extend the markings 'a bit' ]

Thanks PEEPS. Steve.

Has ANYONE got a mkIV with the speedo STILL calibrated to 180KPH. Either with 'stickers' for MPH, or, with proper face marked 0-112MPH ? ie. NOT 'speedo-converted' but just re-faced/numbered. Would the speedo 'break' if it's MAX' is 112 and it was driven regularly over that ie. topped out often ? ?

[ Don't know about the Soop pattern hoods but, AS STANDARD, the bonnet 'vents' that were on my Escort RS Turbo did NOT have drainage. the N/S vent poured straight onto the Air Filter box - which happened to be 'split' vertically !?! the O/S vent poured straight down onto exhaust manifold/alternator/ and alternator belt ?!?!?. Having said that, apart from a little more 'fan'-belt squeal on wet mornings and steam coming from the manifold at traffic lights, it never caused any problems - and I was to lazy to do anything about it ] Steve.

86.0mm x 86.0mm 'Square' format (ARGUABLY the best !? )

Have you still got the 'normal' viscous fan ? On BMW's these REGULARLY fail - still spin but fail to 'lock-up' at temperature. Does anybody know if the Soop viscous 'locks-up' or is like the older Ford ones = gets 'tighter' when hotter ? ? I must say I'm not a fan (!? sorry) of Viscous Couplings. I like an electric fan which you can hear/see is working (although BMW etc still use them so can't be 'bad' ? ) [ Must be to/from pipes to rad, and, at least, to/from matrix ] IF needed, a head gasket ("gas") test is very quick/cheap: a hand-held reservoir is clamped onto the rad' in place of the cap and the engine is run allowing any combustion gases in the coolant to bubble through a CO (CO2?) indicator solution. It's not infallable BUT if it changes it IS gone / if it doesn't it only means it hasn't gone ENOUGH to change the fluid ? ? ps. If you know all this already - SORRY - Haven't quite grasped Who knows What about Which ? ! ? ( I really DO only want to help - NOT act superior - 'COS I'M NOT ! ) pps. Think we charge ~£20/30mins to do test on NORMAL cars, obviously quadruple rate for performance cars ( sorry, thought I was a Toyota dealer for a mo' ) Steve.

Obviously with the VVTi (Variable VALVE Timing), the Cams/Pulleys/or SOMETHING in the Valve-Train is what's actually ALTERED. So it's unlikely that you can just change the cams ? ? (don't know HOW the Supra's VVT is operated, each manufacturer does it a different way; 1 valve then 2; valve LIFT; timing of 'lobes') All TRY to produce the same result = same (or more? ) midrange but with MORE upper horsepower. Most VVTi-type engines I've tried tend to have a 'gutless' feel at low revs and HAVE to be revved to feel 'right' ie. the Toyota '190's/the Honda 'R'-types etc. BUT, with 3 litres and 2 turbos it's just possible the Supra VVTi might NOT feel gutless ? ? Steve "WILLING-TO-THRASH-SOMEONES-VVTi-IN-THE-NAME-OF-SCIENCE" W.

I don't suffer from much 'lag at 6,000 ! ? ! ? ( I haven't even been UP-THERE yet, problems etc.) I was talking about lag at ~1,500/2,000 BUT, I see what you mean - large volumes = less 'time' (-ish). Just seems to me that it needs to go from atmospheric UP TO pressurised levels BEFORE you worry about volumes ? ( ie. turbo needs to raise pressure of ALL the air in the induction system - ALL the pipework/IC etc before it starts 'boosting' engine. Wouldn't it be able to raise that initial boost 'quicker' if it had ~1/4 of the volume to deal with. Once it's RAISED the pressure then I can see that the volume wouldn't matter. NO, I don't REALLY know what I'm talking about, that's why I'm asking you clever chappies ) :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: :stupid: ( ? )

Watching all your replies/threads about the Infamous Mr. Mycroft and his pals on the 'GTR' BBS. They are going on and on about Intercooler efficiency and pipework-mass-exchange-rates and what have you... (all sounds technically correct and all that, BUT: ) It struck me as soon as I saw the induction route on my/our TT's: Surely the EXTREMELY long route from Turbos down the long pipework to the intercooler, along by the radiator and back up by the intake manifold MUST contribute a LOT to the turbo-lag ? ? ? ? ? ? ? ? [ that is one LONG route ! ] Is that why some cars (i.e. Sunny) have their IC on top of the engine so that exhaust-IC-intake is as short as possible. ? ( Sunny's do seem 'quicker' , even if not as good at top end) OR can the turbocharged induction route be as long as you like (doesn't seem likely though).

Am I right in saying that the TT has slightly lower compression pistons than the N/A (as do most turbo variants). If that's the case, then until the first turbo gets a decent spool-up the N/A is actually going to be putting out MORE power. Alright it's only up to ~2,000rpm BUT it will "take-off" just a little more rapidly than the TT. The same was DEFINITELY so in my RS Escort - up to ~2,000rpm an equivalent XR3i pulled MUCH better (obviously my RS then PI**ED all over the N/A, but it still felt quicker off the 'line' unless you kept the turbo spinning AS you pulled away). (don't forget until the turbos are 'moving' themselves you've/I've got a bloody turbine stuck up my exhaust pipe ! ! this obviously doesn't do much for gas-flow ! ! ) I'M NOT BIASED TOWARDS THE N/A's BECAUSE I HAD THE 'RS' AND HAVE NOW GOT THE 'TT'. IT'S JUST THE "WAY THINGS ARE". [ Ideally, you need some system which allows a HIGH comp' ratio 'till the turbo starts pressurising - THEN drops the comp' ratio ? ] I think that's one reason why the auto box isn't at such a disadvantage in the Supra TT - because as soon as you touch the throttle, it ALLOWS the revs to jump straight up to a decent 'spooling' level ? ? ? GOD....don't I go on....... SORRY. Steve W.

BEATEN AGAIN.... ( ....mumble......drat........bah.......gggrrrrrr......darn..... ) My Soop might be quick, but my typing's P**S SLOW ! ! !

At our place we have a complete 'Snap-On' locking wheel nut removal set. As long as there is room around a nut it's basically a set of 'sockets' which tighten onto the wheel nut as you try to undo. IT DOES RUIN THE WHEEL NUT ~50% OF THE TIME. But, as you don't have the KEY, I don't suppose that matters. Any decent tyre/wheel (recovery?) people should have the same. [The only time it hasn't been any good is when the nuts are 'sunk' inside a hole not much bigger than the nut - no room ! Not like that on the Soop though ] Steve.....

You don't actually have to take it apart of course... You can (and we DO) just turn the engine over (by HAND) on the crank pulley - with no belt on. IF it's 'non-interference' it will "NOT-INTERFER" . . ? ! ? Of course, it's only the engine-builder who does it at our place = he knows what he's doing ( ? ) (to check valve timing/ for ALREADY bent valves etc.) NO, it doesn't hurt/bend valves, IF you know what you're doing. WHO'S THE BRAVE SOUL WHO'S GONNA' TRY IT THEN ? ? ? Only joking... I'd rather wait and find out ! ! [ any way - all academical - I AM going to get it changed for peace of mind - it could go middle of nowhere/Sunday night/ AA on strike etc.] doh ! Sorry Martin..... Just realised you said exactly the same as above... Yours.... Dumbo....

There's also an 'E-Max' 1.6 Pinto. Which is a higher compression 1.6 based on the 2.0 block (I think ? ). It was Fords attempt to produce an 'economical' Pinto. [ It didn't work too well 'cos the 2.0 was always just as economical as the 1.6 - it's the old "too-small-for-weight=LESS-economy" type thing . . . mmmmmm... perhaps an 8 litre Supra would be MORE economical = Twin Turbo Viper ? (or maybe NOT, ) ] ps. sorry about the messy 'paragraphing', it's the message-edit-box, throws me completely (NOT hard to do ! )