Steve W

Just tried 'Tyres Online' site, They list even more fronts (225/50-16); Falken, Cooper, Goodrich, Semperit etc. and a couple of rears (245/50-16); ZZ1's , and, Coopers, Dunlop SPsport8000, GoodyearF1(L & R). Still not a lot of rear choice but I've just breathed a sigh.....

YES, I know about the r******g diameter... ROLLING (whoops) BUT guess what they list in a 255/45-16 ? ? NADDA ! It looks like ZZ1's or nothing..... What about tyre importers (Japanese ?) (Edited by Steve W at 9:35 pm on Mar. 29, 2002)

PHIL... Just went to 'MyTyres'. Loads of choice of fronts [225/50-16]>> ZZ1, SPsport2000, SPsport8000, SportContact, S-02, S-03, Pilot, EagleF1, P6000, P7000, and ~6 lesser/budgets. BUT for rears [245/50-16]>> ZZ1............... They don't list any of the others in that profile ?? Is it a strange/non-european size ?? CAN you use any other close profile i.e. 245/55-16 (P6000, Pilot) ?? OR are they just not listing them for some reason ??

Don't POOH-POOH this, but, Is anybody running the early jap' 16" wheel sizes.?? Mine is, and DESPITE not being the most fashionable, I like the ride NO stiffer than it is already thank you. Anybody know about types/prices/WHERE of 225/50-16 & 245/50-16 ? [ ps. the ONLY reason I would want 17"/18" is IF I want to upgrade the brakes at any time - the 'likkle' brakes are just fine at the moment but I CAN understand wanting more retardation at some 'stage' (pun) ] [ pps. I CAN take the 'grandad' & 'wussy' quips, so please, feel free ! "Pipe-and-slippers" prize to most offensive 'slagging-down'] (Edited by Steve W at 5:42 pm on Mar. 29, 2002)

Never had any reaction before : RSTurbo (Mainly engine bay but also inside door closure etc where I didn't want to WASH) or on my bikes etc (ALWAYS use it on rear wheel to remove chain grease - doesn't affect painted wheel) Of course DOES leave oily residue so can't really paint/wax etc without washing off first . . ! ????????????????????????????? (BUT no guarantee obviously)

Romford... Yes, I don't mind if they narrow it down to the speed convertor, as long as it's not a REAL problem. [PLUS the airbag light is still on - PLUS the cruise doesn't work - PLUS the spoiler doesn't SEEM to work (other than 'standstill')] I just want a 'peace-of-mind' check to tell me things like fuel pump/ ECU itself are OK i.e. things I still have time to throw back at the dealer.

DON'T WHAT...?????????????? Now come on, a joke's a joke but..... ALTHOUGH I suppose it could be a 'fuel economy gauge' just like the RIDICULOUS ones in the BMW's... " OOOHHH look, if I accelerate it goes down, and, OOOHHH if I pull my foot right off the accelerator it goes up.?.?.?" It's going into Toyota's tomorrow. They said "Oh, don't know if we can test an import" - :)me>>:)"I'm 99% sure it'll be the same diagnostic circuit mate but I won't blame you if you don't find it" (I sounded like I knew what I was talking about BUT is that right - ARE they the same ?) I will, of course, report back on there findings (or lack of..). Over-and-out, "pi**ed off from Essex".

No, pulling the fuses and waiting 15 minutes; then refitting.... still the same: Management + Warning @ 100**** >>> Time for a diagnostic 'plug-in'. Thanks anyway.....

Right... I'll try the fuse/ECU THINGY 1st, if that's no good - then I'll take it to Toyotas. Can't cost TOO much just to 'plug-it-in' ?!? YES the Odo' IS working although it SAYS KM but is definitely clocking-up miles (6 mile run alongside my Dads Megane = 0.1 difference !... at the same time checked speed = His 40, Supra ~43 / His 70, Supra ~70) so the conversion has been done; BUT what with no spoiler (on-the-move) and no cruise ('CRUISE' lights up but nothing - no matter which order I 'Set'/'Resume'/'etc'), perhaps not 'fed' around right (??) It would be LOVELY if the fuses rest it and the lights stay out BUT that would be a tad' TOO easy [though we've had the things 'squiffy' on several late Fiestas in work and YES the Electrician just reset the management and PRESTO]

I'm HOPING it IS just a speed-convertor-type problem.. As I say, NO noise/NO smells/NO fuss - just lights. It's a real pain 'cos other than that it drives AT LEAST as well as I'd hoped. Really smooth acceleration etc.etc. If I don't go over 100**** it's perfect (obviously got to get the cats' off) BUT Engine Management Light !!!!! = worry (I take it that IS a Management Light ???)

I think I'll have to take it to Toyotas... Is the large round socket by driver's right shin a diagnostic plug ?? The Engine Management/Warning Symbol are NOT coming on at a certain rev's.... I tried switching out the Overdrive and/or using 'MANU' and both ways I can rev high. The lights come on at 100 to 105 **** . No noise, No fuss, Just the lights. Same SPEED every time ??? The only other thing I've noticed is even after driving at 'sane' speeds (ie. cruising 40 to 80 ****) if you switch off and jump out, ther's a lot of tinkling/crinkling (?) from under car - Lower/2nd cat ? It does look a bit old/rusty, but I've seen worse. {Thinking about it - Stainless 'tinkles' as it's cooling = Mongoose.. possibly} GOING TO TRY TOYOTAS ANYWAY but any more ideas . . ? ? (Edited by Steve W at 8:58 pm on Mar. 24, 2002)

Mmmmmm.... I'm getting THOSE symptoms almost exactly. It's like someone's cut the 'electrics' and by the time you've thought "What The..." the speed has dropped about 5or10 LPN's and it's OK again , BUT the warning triangle (AND the Management Light!) STAYS on till I stop/switch off/and on again (that's the only worrying bit...??) Mmmmmmm....

Oh Well, I was only hoping it was 'curing' itself (HA..!) Of what I don't know. What possible things can the Management Light be (or more to the point what isn't it i.e. it's NOT fuel cut?, it's NOT the limiter?) Other than the obvious "the whole ignition system and injection system are dropping out the car". I have no handbook [ but then wouldn't the handbook just say "see a Toyota Dealer" ??].

Is the Toyota original filter 'as-good-as-it-gets' (airflow), OR, if slightly restrictive, what makes of panel filter for original box are there. ??

Slight update... {I'll look at shocks in a MO'} Didn't like the idea of no Oil Warning Light so I went out this morning and tapped/pressed the right 'cluster'. Lights come on/off (surprise - NOT). When I got to work - scived off for 15 minutes and unscrewed the top strip with the lights/trips in. Sure enough the block connector to the right 'cluster' was tempremental. Pulled it in and out a few times and now have level/pressure/management and ABS lights on OK. This is A) GOOD because they all come ON with ignition and OFF when started. and B) BAD because when I tried to STOMP it on the motorway, the 'hazard' warning light (tach) come on again but WITH the management light. [Goes off when ignition OFF/ON'd] However, now goes to ~130thingbings before the 'cut-out' occurs. Reckon this is still limiter ??, or, some fuel problem (=management) ?? THEY filled it with normal unleaded before I took it so I'm going out in a minute to top up with Super/Optimax(?) and some Oct' Boost ?? I'll see what happens. ANYBODY have any problems with normal unleaded or just 'not advisable'.?? ps. NOW the spoiler DOES deploy at standstill, with spoiler light, but no light when moving, at any speed. Is button IN or OUT for auto-deploy ?? (Edited by Steve W at 3:29 pm on Mar. 23, 2002)

Thank You Mr. Flynn, If need be I could get that far { Don't fancy going TOO far with all my warning lights playing-up, or not even working ESPECIALLY the oil light ! ! ! } I'll see what the dealer says WHILST pushing in 'that' direction.

Where are TRL/Mr.Betts based ?

YES... SORRY I forgot, The Cruise-Control doesn't seem to work at all AND the airbag light is on all the time...! How many of these faults can be speedo-convertor-problems OR has someone (the dealer) made a complete pig's-ear of the wiring in-dash . . ? ? The problem is, THEY have to fix it. They are a main agent Mazda dealers AND they have supplied it with a full 3-year WHA warranty (parts and labour, mechanical and electrical). Besides it hasn't been supplied 'in working order' yet. SO, I WILL have it fixed now by them while I still can. If they're not able to fix it, who can look at it/fix it as a proper/invoiced-type job [assuming the dealer will sub-contract it ?!] Someone like T.D.i. ? / J.I.C. ? or does anyone on here do "proper" work on MKIV's ps. the Mongoose system IS fairly restrained. Nice note but doesn't SOUND like a 'performance exhaust' (rear box is 'straight-through' presume middle box is too?) (Edited by Steve W at 10:34 pm on Mar. 22, 2002)

Just picked up my 'Beastie' yesterday and very pleased with it (of COURSE !!). [jap'/TT/auto/std + just Mongoose cat'back/73,000K] It's going back to dealer to have front shocks fitted (MOT by them - no charge for shocks - OK then). AND any "other niggles found". 1)Don't think front spoiler is deploying... light NEVER comes on (next to buttons). How do you know, should it come down if 'DOWN' is pressed. OR only at high speed i.e. someone needs to 'lead' down road and see . . ? ? 2)After toodling along M25 at ~50-80 to check for smells/noises /steering etc.etc. traffic 'disappeared' and found myself on this really long/straight PRIVATE road, and FLOORED it - OH YES ! Streaked up to 120dibdobs and cut out for a split second. Is that Jap' speed limiter ? (ind.120 = ~true112 ??) 3)Almost every time I rev over ~4500/5000 Hazard sign pops up in rev counter. I know this is the GENERAL warning but what for? [ Shouldn't I have an Oil light on when 'check' lights on before starting-up. Only got belts/bags etc. in LEFT cluster and 'slip off' etc in clocks . Nothing alight in RIGHT cluster ??] Ride is particularly stiff (not uncomfortable mind you) and it only has the 16" rims. HOW HARD IS IT WITH 18's/19's/20's ????? Is it harder to get the 16" tyres than the 17" (225/50-16, 245/50-16)? Left speaker is a bit rattly too (>> free fix hopefully?) Though standard speakers aren't CRAP just not wonderful.? English Sony double-din is OK. Hoping it will control my Sony autochanger ??? SORRY, this has dragged on please feel free to YAWN and disregard.

Sorry for Re-Butting in but... Is it 'easy-access' to get the cats off (and fit 1/both pipes) i.e. in the road/outside your house, or, is it far easier on an MOT ramp ?? I'd really like to try to fit them myself/at home but NOT if I'll get stuck halfway (likely to break a siezed bolt/stud). I CAN get it done at work (MOT bay) but would like to be able to change them back myself if I felt like it. [ I know, why would I want to change back, but 'what if' ] I also like the FEELING of doing a BIT myself . . . ! ?

HELL'S BELL'S.... I just go downstairs to get a drink, and by the time I get back... LOADS MORE ADVICE . . ! ! This site appears to be THE best MkIV site. [ and I've spent about 3 weeks 'surfing' (hate that phrase), while waiting for ME MOTA' ] p.s. I work at an MOT/engine recon' firm and I think I'm right in saying EARLY "K"s ('92) DON'T need cat' test LATE "K"s ('93) DO need cat' test BUT, I'll confirm that tomorrow (NO I can't 'get-it-through', It's a pretty legit' test centre. THANKS ALL.....

Thanks... Blimey ('scuse), this computer thingy really IS good for something after all..???

HI, Bit cheeky but I haven't even got my car YET. It WILL be a "K" Jap' TT (auto) in standard spec' except the dealer is fitting a Mongoose St/St cat'-back system to replace the completely FAFFED original. (THEY chose system and I can't really moan - it's free and THEY are giving 3-year warranty . . ? ?). From all the (VERY interesting) forums you have posted it appears that I could/should replace AT LEAST the 2nd cat' with a pipe (St/St would be nice? I love Stainless!!) [ Mr. Wilsons wares ? ! ? ] 1) Does anyone have any experience with the Mongoose. Is it more like the original than HKS/Blitz etc. If so is there any point fiddling with cats' without replacing the whole exhaust AGAIN ? ? 2) If I ONLY remove the 2nd cat' will it give SOME gain (spool-up etc) and also probably NOT require boost control OR 'Fuel Cut Defend'-ING. OR AM I ON COMPLETELY THE WRONG TACK AND FLOUNDERING IN THINGS I KNOW NOTHING ABOUT (it's OK I can handle the truth) Thanks for even READING this..... (Edited by Steve W at 8:01 pm on Mar. 17, 2002)