Blown my crank oil seal for the 2nd time

Ive just blown out my crank oil seal for the 2nd time. Getting it sorted again soon. Theres no real clue as to why this is hapening. im only BPU after all. anyone know why this could be happening and any remedies to prevent it?

Front one? Oh dear, dear dear, that'll be an expensive fix.

i think it is yes, it was that last time, and yes was expensive. any idea how i can stop it happening?

Who replaced it last time?

Give me a potted history of the engine, what's been done to it, by whom, and when.

whifbitz did it, theyre not sure why it might be happening. i have an oil catch can, should i remove it?

engine has:

intake, full decat exhaust with restrictor ring. fmic, walbro 255l/hr fuel pump, stock injectors, sard trigger boost controller, oil catch tank

intake i fitted myself, catback exhaust fitted by local garage, decat by whifbitz, pump by whifbitz, boost controller by whifbitz. fmic and oil catch tank by turbofit(rubbish)

im wondering if there may be a kink in theoil catch can feeds that is causing pressure to build up?

edit all work was done no longer than 6 months ago

http://www.uzmanulhaq.info/blingedybling.jpg

Sorry to hear that ......alot i would say would be a poor install....Cleaning the mating surfaces of the case ..inside and out ( with a alcohol say and cotton tip to get to the section ...lip just inside the oil pump case ) is a Must !!! It's not a hard job at all .Then placement ....OEM seal .....and if your crank snout has a slight wear in the location of where the seal has been running which would require a speedy sleave .....But i can say IF you clean ALL Extremley well first ....use Only OEM seal ....lube the inside vgroove with high speed moly grease make sure only in the vgroove ....a light smear of RTV around the outside of the FMS then Placement ....

For placement of the seal use a correct size piece of PVC pipe or the like as long as its correct size and long enough to make over the crank snout ....

On the oil pump case it has a very slight bevell ..Place the OEM FMS with RTV smear around the outside just past this slight bevell ... it would be aprox 1.5mm back from the front of the oil pump case face .....(get a good light and look and see it first ) use the PVC to place the FMS even and flush with this bevell edge If there is any excess lightly finger smear it around the edge of the seal .....Then let it set over night .

Then put it back together .....While your there ....how is your timing belt and Dampner ??

Good luck .. hope this might help and take your time ....It's not hard .

Nice clean bay ......check you pcv system or breathers also

im not doing it lol, whifbitz will do it, they do a pretty good job of things

Ok no sweat .........GL with it

New oil pump is the only fix;)

New oil pump is the only fix;)

Nice write up

Sorry to hear that ......alot i would say would be a poor install....Cleaning the mating surfaces of the case ..inside and out ( with a alcohol say and cotton tip to get to the section ...lip just inside the oil pump case ) is a Must !!! It's not a hard job at all .Then placement ....OEM seal .....and if your crank snout has a slight wear in the location of where the seal has been running which would require a speedy sleave .....But i can say IF you clean ALL Extremley well first ....use Only OEM seal ....lube the inside vgroove with high speed moly grease make sure only in the vgroove ....a light smear of RTV around the outside of the FMS then Placement ....

 

For placement of the seal use a correct size piece of PVC pipe or the like as long as its correct size and long enough to make over the crank snout ....

 

On the oil pump case it has a very slight bevell ..Place the OEM FMS with RTV smear around the outside just past this slight bevell ... it would be aprox 1.5mm back from the front of the oil pump case face .....(get a good light and look and see it first ) use the PVC to place the FMS even and flush with this bevell edge If there is any excess lightly finger smear it around the edge of the seal .....Then let it set over night .

 

Then put it back together .....While your there ....how is your timing belt and Dampner ??

 

Good luck .. hope this might help and take your time ....It's not hard .

 

 

Nice clean bay ......check you pcv system or breathers also

New oil pump is the only fix;)

Did you take the engine out when you did your oil pump bud?

guess im gonna have to gt one

Did you take the engine out when you did your oil pump bud?

No just drooped the sub frame, well got someone else to as i was feeling lazy;)

well u know how many i have been through at least 4

i have decedied on a full rebuild and have gone for a new oil pump get yourself a phr pump cheaper than unmodified stock one

Joe at PHR has them in stock fast delivery too!!!!!!!!!!

well u know how many i have been through at least 4

 

i have decedied on a full rebuild and have gone for a new oil pump get yourself a phr pump cheaper than unmodified stock one

 

Joe at PHR has them in stock fast delivery too!!!!!!!!!!

They where about £80-100 dearer than stock when i bought one, and its only a case of enlarging the drain hole;)

They where about £80-100 dearer than stock when i bought one, and its only a case of enlarging the drain hole;)

exchange rate there like 350 bucks

It needs a full engine strip, a proper, total one, and all the oil galleries cleaning out, re assembling after sizing the crank and the cam bearing bores with new shells and a new oil pump. You might as well bore and re piston it whilst you're at it, and give it a head job. The pump will be goosed and the oil system full of the metallic bits from the pump. Any less of a job is a cock up. You also need to see why the pump failed, it's PROBABLY due to it running too rich for some reason, or has run cheap oil in the past. It's ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with the seal itself, or having to glue them in, blah blah. If there's a wear lip on the crank nose you will probably find it cheapest to fit another crank, IMO.

It needs a full engine strip, a proper, total one, and all the oil galleries cleaning out, re assembling after sizing the crank and the cam bearing bores with new shells and a new oil pump. You might as well bore and re piston it whilst you're at it, and give it a head job. The pump will be goosed and the oil system full of the metallic bits from the pump. Any less of a job is a cock up. You also need to see why the pump failed, it's PROBABLY due to it running too rich for some reason, or has run cheap oil in the past. It's ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with the seal itself, or having to glue them in, blah blah. If there's a wear lip on the crank nose you will probably find it cheapest to fit another crank, IMO.

Ouch!

One mans "ouch" is another mans next exotic animal or tractor implement.... Or more likely overdraft repayment

One mans "ouch" is another mans next exotic animal or tractor implement.... Or more likely overdraft repayment

The latter was more along the lines i was thinkin........

It needs a full engine strip, a proper, total one, and all the oil galleries cleaning out, re assembling after sizing the crank and the cam bearing bores with new shells and a new oil pump. You might as well bore and re piston it whilst you're at it, and give it a head job. The pump will be goosed and the oil system full of the metallic bits from the pump. Any less of a job is a cock up. You also need to see why the pump failed, it's PROBABLY due to it running too rich for some reason, or has run cheap oil in the past. It's ABSOLUTELY nothing to do with the seal itself, or having to glue them in, blah blah. If there's a wear lip on the crank nose you will probably find it cheapest to fit another crank, IMO.

All this from the man who will be having a look at my oil leak in a few weeks.

I shudder at what the verdict might be.

I will add that in my case there where no metal (well alloy as thats the part that wears in the pump) particles in my sump whatsoever, there could have been very very fine alloy dust suspended in the oil, but i also suspect that my engine had been apart before in an effort to rectify the seal leak by opening out the pump drain, which will still not compensate for a worn pump, and it only takes a bit of scoring on the pump spigot for it to leak like a sieve.