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My turbo is Donald Ducked


jevansio
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Blimey Jay was not exspecting yours to look like mine. Looks like something has Been through yours aswell.

 

Mind you I came into a problem with a phr kit a month

ago when the wastegate jammed open. A Nice piece of weld popped out when I pumped the valve open to un jam. Had to look again to make sure it was not a xsflower one

 

Ryan

 

I'll fetch it on Saturday so you can inspect it close up.

 

Who says t51r aren't lively lower down :D

Lol, bugger :D

 

Was thinking of sending the pics to Precision / Garrett to see if they can confirm the cause of the damage

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Holy Hell Jay!!! Bummer we rushed that .81 Housing to you just to find more problems! At least we know you were down on power more than likely hehe!!!

 

The bling is piling up here, should be shipping next week!!

Lol I know, better to find out now I suppose than after even more mapping sessions, yeah hoping to see some great figures on Saturday,

 

Good stuff bud

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Sounds extremely possible that Dan, the 2 Step is so violent, the shock wave when you're stood behind the car is pretty bad, God only knows what it's like inside the manifold

 

It does sound good though. Dread to think how long my newly refurbed T61 will last :eyebrows:

 

Have we had any cars not running 4088's suffer from the same problem? When my 61 cam out there was no signs of damage and i ran 2 step for a couple of months.

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It does sound good though. Dread to think how long my newly refurbed T61 will last :eyebrows:

 

Have we had any cars not running 4088's suffer from the same problem? When my 61 cam out there was no signs of damage and i ran 2 step for a couple of months.

 

Your T61 won't last long, 4088/GT4088R/T67/T61...NONE can survive Anti-Lag.

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I have used soft antilag/2step on my PHR1 (60-1) turbo many many times.

 

I have said many times that the antilag/2step does not have to be so violent, no one listens though as it doesnt give the bangs and flames :(

 

 

Mine is very subtle but works as it should.. Ryan set it up so i guess i should be ok..:)

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I set mine up and it makes no real noise apart from the normal rev increase and turbo spool.

 

1bar boost comes online very quickly :D

 

The trouble is that 1 bar of boost and quick spool is because your combustion process is no longer solely contained in the combustion chamber......

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Your T61 won't last long, 4088/GT4088R/T67/T61...NONE can survive Anti-Lag.

 

After reading on a little. I think i am confused as to what 2 step is.

 

I thought it was when your car his the rev limiter the fuel is not cut. Hence unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust and exploding.

 

This is how i run my car. The ONLY reason i do this is because i enjoy the banging so much.

 

Sorry to be so rubbish but could someone please explain it in lamens terms.

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I thought it was when your car his the rev limiter the fuel is not cut. Hence unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust and exploding.

 

What rev limit, with 2step it should be 3500rpm.

 

I hope you are not reving round to 7000rpm and then it pops and bangs :blink:

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True anti-lag would upon activation:

1. Open up a throttle bypass (you can use a Ford idle bypass valve for example) to get more air into the plenum when the throttle is shut.

2. Inject a corresponding amount of fuel

3. Delay the igntion timing to the point where semi combusted charge makes it's way past the exhaust valve...using the combustion process to spin the (delicate little pathetic) turbine wheel on the (skinny little slender) shaft which in turns spins the compressor wheel generating boost.

 

The downside is your cast iron and cast aluminium combustion chamber is no longer where combustion takes place - your (relatively weak, thin walled, fatigue and temperature cycle sensitive) manifold is left to bear the brunt of this bastardized combustion.

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...(delicate little pathetic) turbine wheel on the (skinny little slender) shaft which in turns spins the compressor wheel generating boost.

 

The downside is your cast iron and cast aluminium combustion chamber is no longer where combustion takes place - your (relatively weak, thin walled, fatigue and temperature cycle sensitive) manifold is left to bear the brunt of this bastardized combustion.

 

Not a fan then eh? :)

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I have Anti lag set up on the AEM, I have never used it myself, in part after reading this from the Cosworth WRC site, quite an interesting read and states quite clearly that anti lag is a turbo killer

 

Anti-lag

 

This basis for this article I have gotten form Steve Neophytou.

 

The reason for Anti-lag is, as it's name suggests, to decrease or eliminate the lag induced by a turbocharger. It is mainly used in rally where all Group A or WRC cars are turbocharged.

When you want big power out of a 2 litre engine you need a turbocharger, and the more power you want the bigger the turbocharger has to be. But a big turbocharger takes a long time to spin up and create boost pressure and that's where the ALS (Anti Lag System) comes in. Because every second a car is off boost a lot of time is lost on a rallystage.

 

To get rid of the lag the needs to keep spinning at full speed at all times. This includes when the throttle is closed for a gearchange, when braking for a turn and when you're a the start line ready to take off.

 

To keep the turbo spinning while the throttle is closed you need exhaust (lots of hot air basically) to keep turning the turbine wheel. This is how it works:

To get the ALS working you need this:

 

P8 ECU - Which the big-turbo Escort Cosworth already have as it was made for rally.

Pectel anti-lag babyboard - An additional module to the ECU.

Anti-lag valve - Replaces the original idle speed control valve.

Modified throttle body - The inlet and outlet ports to idle valve bored out.

Turbo with 360thrust bearing - So that it will last longer.

EGT gauge - So you know when your turbo and manifold is going to melt.

Wiring to "arm" the anti-lag and switch it off - This simply involves wiring in a switchable earth to one of the ECU pins.

This goes for so-called "mild" anti-lag (see further down for info), for the real WRC stuff you need another (very expensive) turbo, exhaust manifold and a few other bits.

 

With the ALS installed - when you let go of the throttle, the valve that replaces the standard idle valve in a modified throttle body opens to let the air continue through. The amount of air this valve can flow is the only thing that affects anti-lag, the less the airflow, the less effect the anti-lag has. Then the ECU retards the ignition timing by 30 degrees so the fuel is ignited when the exhaust valves are open and most of the fuel is already in the exhaust manifold and turbo. That makes lots of nice and hot exhaust to spin the turbo and create boost pressure.

 

A small "mild" ALS valve can flow enough air to make 0psi boost pressure at idle/off throttle (rather than -25psi of vacuum), sometimes up to 7psi of boost, which makes the turbo hit full boost almost straight away when you press the throttle. The big WRC anti-lag valve can flow enough air to produce 22psi at idle (or off throttle), which makes the car have no lag at all. That will increase the driveability of the car a lot.

 

Unfortunately the WRC ALS puts a big strain on the turbo and exhaust, whereas with the 'mild' anti-lag setup is practically as reliable as not using an ALS at all. It will gradually burn out your silencer baffles, but all that does is make your exhaust louder.

Some people say that the fuel will cause "borewash" making the need for a rebuild all the time. But that is not the case. The amount of fuel used in anti-lag is not enough to cause any significant bore wash (unless you use £5 budget oil), most performance cars fuel on overrun, unless they have been mapped for good emissions, not mapped like that because of reliability reasons.

 

Regarding the reliability of Cosworths with the mild ALS installed people have had it installed for up to three years without any problems at all even though it has been switched on at most times. The only real thing you have to be wary of with anti-lag is that Exhaust Gas Temperatures (EGT) go sky high but there's no real worry as you could be on the overrun for well over 30 seconds on 'mild' anti-lag before the EGT will get dangerously high. If EGT gets too high it could melt the exhaust and/or turbo. The engine internals will not have any problems.

 

For full-on WRC anti-lag the specs is as with 'mild' anti-lag but with a bigger WRC ALS valve, and a anti-lag turbo with Maram 247 shaft and turbine wheel with 7° cut-back blades, Nimonic wastegate spindle and everything nicely put together by a reputable company at around £1800 total. You will need that as the extra stop/start shocks and extra heat would eat a standard shaft in minutes. A stainless steel exhaust manifold may be handy too as it could stand more heat than standard one.

 

For road use you will not need more than 'mild' anti-lag, and for track use it might be best too as you're on track at sustained periods of time and the WRC anti-lag may be too severe for those long sessions.

 

The ALS system won't increase the outright power of your car but it will significantly increase the power delivery - much much more low down torque since the car gets on boost a lot earlier than without the ALS.

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  • 1 month later...
Only just seen this, looks exactly the same as what happened to mine, knocked 500rpm off my spool time is the only reason i could tell it happend, i chucked it away but i belive it now resides in bigblues car:rolleyes:

Yeah, mine was still performing pretty well, don't think I would have noticed had we not been changing the housing to a 0.81

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