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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Check your crank pulleys


Tom

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Mine fell off not long ago and was sat in the undertray for about 2 days before I worked out what the squeeling noise was. I had exactly the same symptoms as decribed on SF.

 

I advise people to buy replacement stock crank pulleys from Nic. He's a lot cheaper than Mr T :)

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Does it effect the harmonic balancing properties of the pulley do you think?

 

 

not sure...........theres minimal weight added but i know 5-10g missing from a wheel rim can have a drastic effect on wheel balance..........

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Is that right? I haven't heard that before. What's your source?

(I'm not saying it's wrong, it sounds like a sensible precaution)

 

I was quoting Minko form the Aussie forum Jake- it's a first for me too. I'll ask DSA tomorow.

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What does everyone think of this............very much a prototype.

 

The correct way to do this is to drill the peripherary in 3 places with an oversized hole, through the elastomer band, then drill a smaller hole into the hub. Fit 3 cap heads with spacers so the outer ring still moves independently of the inner, but an elastomer failure results in the cap heads holding the ring in situ, albeit with a lot of rattling noises. Common, even manadatory, in some race engines.

 

I also do a scret mod on the timing star wheel on TT engines, as these can move when the peening that holds them to the cam belt pulley fails. (Yes, I have done yours Peter....) :)

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I was quoting Minko form the Aussie forum Jake- it's a first for me too. I'll ask DSA tomorow.

 

Hes probably talking KM, not miles.

 

So it should be looked at during at your 63k mile service with your belt changed if it was serviced correctly.

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The correct way to do this is to drill the peripherary in 3 places with an oversized hole, through the elastomer band, then drill a smaller hole into the hub. Fit 3 cap heads with spacers so the outer ring still moves independently of the inner, but an elastomer failure results in the cap heads holding the ring in situ, albeit with a lot of rattling noises. Common, even manadatory, in some race engines.

 

I also do a scret mod on the timing star wheel on TT engines, as these can move when the peening that holds them to the cam belt pulley fails. (Yes, I have done yours Peter....) :)

 

 

Errr, I'm fick and I can't visualise things very well. Can you draw a sketch of that, purleese?

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The correct way to do this is to drill the peripherary in 3 places with an oversized hole, through the elastomer band, then drill a smaller hole into the hub. Fit 3 cap heads with spacers so the outer ring still moves independently of the inner, but an elastomer failure results in the cap heads holding the ring in situ, albeit with a lot of rattling noises. Common, even manadatory, in some race engines.

 

I also do a scret mod on the timing star wheel on TT engines, as these can move when the peening that holds them to the cam belt pulley fails. (Yes, I have done yours Peter....) :)

 

 

So drill 3 equally spaced oversized holes in the elastomer section of the pulley for the cap head bolts being used with spacer washers to do the job of retaining the outer wheel in event of elastomer failure, Genius.

 

Does the loose fit therefore mean the bolts no longer cause a great issue with balance, or is that for heat expansion? i'm really not "picking-holes" here as sounds like a great inexpensive solution, just wondered if making holes in the elastomer might cause premature failure, have you does this mod on a high miler pulley and got numerous more miles out Chris, as a little nervous bout drilling holes in mine but hey i guess the peace of mind the outer pulley's not gonna try and escape out of my Carbon Fibre bonnet's enough reassurance!

:)

 

Read again and i've got wrong end of stick, might need that drawing too!

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