PhilMorrison Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Right, we're putting a 2JZGTE with 6 speed into our S15 Silvia. The engines out at the moment, and we have a few choice components to go on, but as much as I have researched the engine, I could still do with some advice from those in the know. The specs will be: 60k miles UK 2JZGTE GT35 0.64 with 48mm wastegate, at about 1.8bar (600bhp is the goal) HKS 256 in, and 264 out, with vernier pullies. Custom exhaust manifold big alloy inlet manifold with 75mm TB 740cc Denso's in a HKS Rail 2 x 044 pumps and associated lines. 40 row oil cooler, and Koyo rad. AEM with 3.5bar map sensor So, I've recently learnt that I may need a modified oil pump when running this sort of pressure:( , so where can I find one of these, and whats involved in fitting? (engine is out) Also, when trying to find more information on this oil pump, I read about a few problems with front and rear crank seals . This soulds like an engine rebuild job? Not good, given my timescale. Is there anything else that I'm missing? The car will be used extremely hard. Our last demo car spent 80% of it's life on the limiter. The 2 words to keep in mind, are power and reliability Thanks This is my old car. and below it is the current state of the 2JZ S15. The engine looks like that as it's there for mockup of engine mounts and the new bulkhead, don't worry, it will not look anywhere near as nasty as that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamer Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I believe PHR sell the modified oil pump, Envy might also sell it but it could be from the same source. Well worth doing if you have the engine out. Front and rear crank seals should be fine providing you have a good breather system in place. PHR: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=110 Direct link to pump: http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=97096 They also do a very nice breather system.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 You may be able to DIY? See this thread....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Also a thread here re oil pump removal which may help........... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMorrison Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 Really useful thanks Gamer and Scooter.. So that thread on modding the oil pump yourself states that the seal hole is 5.1mm, but doesn't answer the 'how big to make it' question.. Any idea's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamer Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I have no idea Phil and to be honest I would just get the PHR offering as they have done the R&D on it already and they push some serious HP/pressures over there so they probably know a thing or two about the correct size. Plus with the $ being weak at the moment..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMorrison Posted February 22, 2007 Author Share Posted February 22, 2007 Yeah should be around £200 delivered I reckon. I agree. I'll stop being a tightass So are we in agreement that with one of these pumps relieving the excessive pressure, I should have no problem with either crank seal? P.S. these guys on ebay selling the full MKIV technical manuals. is that the full workshop manual the will show how to break down an engine etc in detail? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
supra matt Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 yes cj did a run of the work shop manaul £50 this is well worth it , give him a pm to see if he can sort you one out , Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous brain Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 WOW you have that engine sitting way back there, Looks like half of its in the cabin with you. Going for a mid engined RWD motor ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobbeh Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 I think Phil or 'Terminator' as hes known on here maybe worth asking, I'm pretty sure he was doing the same thing (2JZ) to a S14. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 Just a note on the crank seals Phil, if the lump has been sitting for any length of time i would be inclined to change both seals as they can be prone to hardening/ageing which ultimately leads to failure, there is a lot of talk on the US sites about high oil pressure causing seal failure, not to sure if i totally agree with this, as the std pump runs pretty high pressure as std, there is also talk of crank walk causing seals to fail, which i believe they say is due to the way the clutch works, this might be worth looking further into since it will be a drift beast;) breathing with high power output would i think warrant upping the size of the two cam cover breathers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gamer Posted February 22, 2007 Share Posted February 22, 2007 So are we in agreement that with one of these pumps relieving the excessive pressure, I should have no problem with either crank seal? Cheers Do not forget a proper breather system. Check this PDF file http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=38059&d=1150727882 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMorrison Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 WOW you have that engine sitting way back there, Looks like half of its in the cabin with you. Going for a mid engined RWD motor ?? Hell yes . I'm fed up with trying every trick in the book to get more traction. This should solve the problem Just a note on the crank seals Phil, if the lump has been sitting for any length of time i would be inclined to change both seals as they can be prone to hardening/ageing which ultimately leads to failure, there is a lot of talk on the US sites about high oil pressure causing seal failure, not to sure if i totally agree with this, as the std pump runs pretty high pressure as std, there is also talk of crank walk causing seals to fail, which i believe they say is due to the way the clutch works, this might be worth looking further into since it will be a drift beast;) breathing with high power output would i think warrant upping the size of the two cam cover breathers. Hmm, it has been sitting for a while, so I'll have a look at whats involved in replacing them. Regarding the breathers from the cam covers, should I look at making them huge then? I'll be venting to a catch can for regulations anyway, so if I have to use one each side, that's no problem. Do not forget a proper breather system. Check this PDF file http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=38059&d=1150727882 Thanks again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 P.S. these guys on ebay selling the full MKIV technical manuals. is that the full workshop manual the will show how to break down an engine etc in detail? I've never seen the FULL workshop manual on ebay, they're mostly discs filled with pdf's from the comon sections of it. You can download for free, or someone here can post a copy. The full manuals I've only seen in paper form, one of the guys here got hold of a full copy of it and ran a limited production run of them in hardcopy (4x books, about 8 inches thick!). 'JohnK' has a set for sale I believe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 You have engineered the conversion to sit the engine well back, and that's so good to see Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMorrison Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 I've never seen the FULL workshop manual on ebay, they're mostly discs filled with pdf's from the comon sections of it. You can download for free, or someone here can post a copy. The full manuals I've only seen in paper form, one of the guys here got hold of a full copy of it and ran a limited production run of them in hardcopy (4x books, about 8 inches thick!). 'JohnK' has a set for sale I believe. Thanks, I'll see what I can find You have engineered the conversion to sit the engine well back, and that's so good to see Thanks Chris . When the car currently sit's in such a messy state it's difficult to see what a beast it should be. I'm glad you approve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hadyn Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Hello phil my old mate Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Hell yes . I'm fed up with trying every trick in the book to get more traction. This should solve the problem Hmm, it has been sitting for a while, so I'll have a look at whats involved in replacing them. Regarding the breathers from the cam covers, should I look at making them huge then? I'll be venting to a catch can for regulations anyway, so if I have to use one each side, that's no problem. Thanks again Its not hard to change them, front is just pulleys and cam belt, which i presume you will change anyway, and rear flywheel off, and then its just a case of winkling them out and drive in a new one, its advisable to make up a tool or get a big deep socket to drive them in square, as for breather most people running big singles open them up to at least 20mm, you also may want to research the clutch mechanism, i can't remember offhand whether its pull or push, but there is some info advocating reversing the action, and if you use a lot of clutch kick it may be worth checking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMorrison Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 Hi Hadyn Tricky, thanks again mate, we do use the clutch a hell of a lot, and we're probably using a HKS triple, so if anyone has any further info on the clutch issue I'd appreciate it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMorrison Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 Might as well add a couple more questions here if you guys don't mind What's the best timing belt to go for? I've seen HKS, Greddy, and Tomei. They are probably all the same thing, but anyone with experience? I'm obviously not using the aircon pump, so what smaller aux belt should I use? I'm not using the alloy crank pully after reading about them here, but I am using the Power steering/Water pump/Alternator alloy pullies. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 I always prefer a stock belt, although some people like the kevlar reinforced ones. They serve a purpose on Skylines and others with no automatic tensioner, as they stretch less, but otherwise i think the stock belt is just fine. You need to jam the tension fully retracted and wrap a stock belt around the required pulleys, then cut and tape the join flush. Remove, open out like a long ruler and measure. Get the nearest belt a tad longer to that length. I had a nightmare with a toothed belt on my Toyota 4-AGE race engine, I ended up making custom idler wheels to use an avialbale belt. Nothing existed off the shelf to do what I required using the stock wheels, and custom belts are very expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 What's the best timing belt to go for? I've seen HKS, Greddy, and Tomei. They are probably all the same thing, but anyone with experience? I'm obviously not using the aircon pump, so what smaller aux belt should I use? I'm not using the alloy crank pully after reading about them here, but I am using the Power steering/Water pump/Alternator alloy pullies. Hi Phil. I'd go for Power Enterprise - they initially designed them, now HKS etc use them under license. We use a belt from Gates in the US on cars that want to ditch the AC. We keep all them in stock if you need em, I'll sort you out a great price. Gaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhilMorrison Posted February 23, 2007 Author Share Posted February 23, 2007 Thanks Chris.. Is there any reason not to use the Kevlar belt other than the associated cost obviously. Cheers Gaz.. Let me know on those bit's I need to up the rev limit too buddy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 No reason not to use a kevlar reinforced belt whatsoever. I am sure Gaz will happily sell you one I wish they did them for the Toyota 4-AGE 1600 DOHC. I don't suppose you can supply one for that application, can you gaz? It's an engine and transaxle out job to adjust the belt... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz Walker Posted February 23, 2007 Share Posted February 23, 2007 Thanks Chris.. Is there any reason not to use the Kevlar belt other than the associated cost obviously. Cheers Gaz.. Let me know on those bit's I need to up the rev limit too buddy I'll drop you some prices in the morning Phil. On hard use cars, I'd really recommend it. The stock belt is good, but not as good. Plus you can see wear on the PE belts a lot easier. No reason not to use a kevlar reinforced belt whatsoever. I am sure Gaz will happily sell you one I wish they did them for the Toyota 4-AGE 1600 DOHC. I don't suppose you can supply one for that application, can you gaz? It's an engine and transaxle out job to adjust the belt... I think they do Chris, let me know how many teeth the belt has because they do 3 types for the Levin/Trueno/Corolla engine range. Gaz. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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