mrpug106 Posted July 11, 2001 Share Posted July 11, 2001 jeeees......JB that is some Stone STORM not chips,I take it you don,t like to keep to much of a distance between the car in front!. Lance: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted July 11, 2001 Share Posted July 11, 2001 Well I've tried the number for local operators on their Chipsaway.co.uk site and I get the tone which means "sod off and dial it properly". What number did you dial? ........ much later......... I noticed that HalF*rd s are an agent for Chipsaway and they provide the sales frontage to a local Chipsaway body. My local halF*rd s has a multi-bay workshop and a Daewoo dealership (why?) so I guessed they would support the Chipsaway service, they do. HalF*rd s told me the price would £89.90 for the stone chips I want removing. When I told them someone had their Supra done for around £60 they were most troubled. Their take on that is that if they quote/charge £89.90 and somewhere else a direct sale is charged £60 then they can't compete and they'd be either beating up on Chipsaway or dropping the franchise. Quick, give me the number of your local agent before the s**t hits the fan. (Edited by Paul Booth at 7:39 pm on July 11, 2001) (Edited by Paul Booth at 7:41 pm on July 11, 2001) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrpug106 Posted July 12, 2001 Share Posted July 12, 2001 Ok try this number,But i don,t know if he,s YOUR local Man,but he might be able to put you in touch with someone, Sounds like halF*rd s want their cut aswell... Maybe the guy i had did it on the side....Coz i paid cash.! As it was about 6:30pm (who knows)...??(who cares as long as the end result is good) Try Alex:07957 361091 Lance.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted July 12, 2001 Share Posted July 12, 2001 Finally got a local number for the mobile Chipsaway person, a John Morrby (different person). They operate on a franchise scheme. They have an official price list which they quote from but what they actually charge is really down to their own discretion. He's coming at 13:00 today so we'll see what he quotes for 2 cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 Mr. Chipsaway arrived on the dot. The price list is a bit like McDonalds, how many chips do you want removing, do you want to go large for just another £xx. Anyway, he did the serious motorway rash on my metallic 406 and the not-so-many bits I had on the Supe for £175 (inc VAT). While I can't see 99% of the work he did on the 406, he did warn me that if I use a polish which leaves residue it will create white dots all over the bonnet as the Chipsaway solution does leave small depressions. OK, so I'll pressure wash it until I come up with the right polish; no biggy. I mentioned I want to get rid of the tiny swirl marks on the Supe and he showed me the effect of 3M's Finesse. Very impressive. However, I've heard that 3M Finesse doesn't actually flat the surface, just fills the swirls, so it gets washed out and the swirls return. Anyone know how true that is? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughie Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 I've got 3M Handglaze which is supposed to do more or less the same thing i believe : it fills-in tiny surface scratches or "swirl marks". How long these swirl marks remain "filled-in" for i don't know. I Handglazed my car a couple of months ago (damn hard work BTW) and the swirl marks are back. I know that 3M have a whole range of products. I hadn't heard of Finesse before. Does anyone know what the difference between Finesse and Handglaze is ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 I tend to make the most of the power in my car, which means there are some seriously high speed stone chips on it. I also collected a fine bunch of them at Bentwaters before they changed the track layout, it severely damaged my side skirts and my rear wheels which Im going to take off this weekend and patch up in time for Billing. With regards to 3m Handglaze, I have used it on my headlamps and it is amazing stuff. I accidentaly dragged the headlamp across the bit of newspaper that it was resting on and put some surface scratches in, I got the 3m stuff on it and they scratches just disappeared. Im going to do the whole car with it this weekend so I can let people know how good it is. JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughie Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 Folks Found the 3M site with info on all this "Polishes and glazes" stuff : http://www.3m.com/market/automotive/automotive2/factory.html Also here's the link to their FAQ : http://www.3m.com/market/automotive/faq.html explains all about polishes / waxes / swirl marks / oxidation etc.etc. Seems that "Finesse-It" is similar to hand-glaze but is slightly more targeted towards removal of swirl marks / oxidation than Handglaze. It appears in the 1st link.= anyway. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 Remember guys, the Glaze is the last polish you use on a re-finish paint. It is designed to fill the ultra-fine swirl marks left by the machine polish. What I would recommend is going over the car with the machine-applied polish (09548) and the convoluted foam mop (09551). It is extremely gentle and you'd honestly have to be a real muppet to burn an edge or something. This process will remove any old wax and fine surface scratches. Then use the Imperial Machine Glaze, in conjunction with the Superbuff, which leaves a superior finish over the ordinary hand glaze (which is bl*ody hard work). Next you have to seal the prepared surface with a wax polish. Otherwise, you'll have to do the same thing again a few months later. Personally, I use a water-soluble wax-cum-shampoo called DUET. However, the wax coating left on the surface is nowhere near as durable as a conventional hand-applied wax. Which means, to give adequate protection, the car must be washed every week. Which I don't mind as the car isn't normally driven much. A more durable alternative, for someone who uses their car on a regular basis, is to use the original Turtle Wax. That is to say, the one that comes in a sqare tin, hand applied, and has a consistency similar to ordinary shoe polish. You cannot use any of these polishes that claim to restore the paintwork at the same time as you apply the product!!!!!!!! Because all you'll do is remove the 3M glaze. Not only that, these products will leave swirl marks of their own. So you can find yourself in a self-defeating process, namely: 3M Glaze fills the swirl marks; then you apply a renovating polish that removes the Glaze; and by using the renovating polish swirl-marks are left on the surface. What you are attempting to do, by applying a top-coat of wax, is to simply seal the surface... not to mess with it chemically in any way. HTH Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 Where, if anywhere, would you introduce the Autoglym resin polish? I use that currently and I can pressure wash it several times before I need to re polish it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 Use the resin polish in place of the Turtle wax stage mentioned in my previous post. Any high-quality polish that does *not* contain abrasives or ammonia will do the job. Otherwise, as I say, you'll simply remove the 3M Glaze and be back where you started. Basically, by using the 3M products, you get a nice shiny swirl-free surface. But you then need a product that will seal that surface and protect it from the rigours of the weather, sunlight, etc. So that's what the final coat of wax does, it's merely there to seal the already shiny surface. Not there to create the actual shine. The shine is created by making ever smaller and smaller scratches on the surface. With a freshly-painted surface you flat to 2000 grit, then use compound, then polish, then glaze. And finally seal with some kind of silicone/wax coating. Note: it takes about 30-days before fresh paint can be wax sealed, as the reaction continues for several weeks following application. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 Note: it takes about 30-days before fresh paint can be wax sealed, as the reaction continues for several weeks following application. Thank the gods you said that now. I get my shiny red nose back tomorrow a.m. and I had planned on giving it a resin coat asap. Friendly body-shop man is going to bring home professional polishing tools and 3M materials for me to get a nice shiny finish. Of course, the weather will have to be cool and dry. Not for the paint, for me. BTW, either I picked up about 20 new stone chips on the 406 today, or, the Chipsaway job didn't remove the Autoglym resin before painting and the paint is starting to fall out. Harumph! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francesca Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 Last time I hand glazed my car it took me 6 hours...but it is good (especially for black cars). I actually sell 3M products at work, although not the automotive range, was talking to the rep today & he thought it might be possible to buy from a distributor. Only problem may be minimum order quantities. He is going to get someone from the automotive side to call me back. Would it be of interest for the shop if feasible? I usually get mine from an aircraft painter who lets me have it at cost (still B. expensive!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted July 13, 2001 Share Posted July 13, 2001 F - I get mine (3M) from my neighbour at the exhorbitant price of £0.00 (inc VAT) but I'm pretty sure JB would be up for the proposal. I'm hoping with the proper tools it isn't going to take that long. Put it this way, I'm not spending that long on it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughie Posted July 14, 2001 Share Posted July 14, 2001 I Handglazed my car a coulple of months ago and i can confirm that to do it well it IS hard work and does take a while. What I did was : 1) washed it 2) chamois'd it dry 3) Handglazed thoroughly 4) was totally knackered and p*ssed off by this stage so stopped and went inside. What i should have done (as Ash says) is the final stage of resin polish or wax to seal the Handglaze in. Of course now it needs Handglazing again .... It will take a few hours for all the above steps, followed by a resin polish. it's a big car and it really ends up being quite a lot of work ! End results worth it though. cheers all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted July 14, 2001 Share Posted July 14, 2001 Personally, I would never use the hand glaze except on very small items, say, when I was painting a bonnet pod. It's just too much work. The machine Glaze is just SO much easier to apply as the buffer does all the rubbing. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
francesca Posted July 14, 2001 Share Posted July 14, 2001 I am going to get machine glaze & a machine eventually, am finding the hand method very helpful in helping me to lose weight..trouble is I usually add 'and have a beer' to stage 4 & ruin all the good work. Ah well. Is Mer OK for the final polish stage BTW? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughie Posted July 14, 2001 Share Posted July 14, 2001 Ash I see you live in South London. i'm in Battersea. Is there any chance i can borrow (for a small fee if you insist!) your buffing machine and machine glaze for a day ? I'd love to give it a go on my car. Handglaze is cardiac arrest inducing to do it properly by hand !! Is it relatively easy to *avoid* burning through edges as long as you're careful etc. ? cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted July 15, 2001 Share Posted July 15, 2001 Quote: from francesca on 9:06 pm on July 14, 2001[br]Ah well. Is Mer OK for the final polish stage BTW? I would say not from personal use. It is heavily recommended by the caravan fraternity and, having used it on my tourer, it's a waste of space. I find the non-solvent based stain removers followed by a good soluble wax based cleaner much better (on my touring caravan, obviously). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted July 15, 2001 Share Posted July 15, 2001 Doughie.............. Please, please don't be offended at this but I *never* lend my tools. I'm sorry, it's just a "thing" with me that I've always had, and it's nothing personal against you whatsoever. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ash Posted July 15, 2001 Share Posted July 15, 2001 Francesca............. MER, to me, is a 3-letter swear word. Yours, J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doughie Posted July 15, 2001 Share Posted July 15, 2001 Hey no problem at all Ash. - totally understand. cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branners Posted July 17, 2001 Share Posted July 17, 2001 I missed Francescas post about buying 3m products whole sale. If the hand glaze works and is easy enough to apply then I would probably consider stocking the stuff in Shop!! I will let you know after I apply it to my car. JB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted July 17, 2001 Share Posted July 17, 2001 Word from the body shop is machine glaze is easier and does a better job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted July 17, 2001 Share Posted July 17, 2001 Well we are all waiting! What is is like then? What not finished? Too busy running Shop!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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