Guest Martin F Posted October 1, 2001 Share Posted October 1, 2001 Quote: from Paul Booth on 2:03 pm on Oct. 1, 2001[br]On a manual if you floor it with the RL TC holding the revs at 4,000 and you just dump the clutch, you're likely to break something or stall the engine. My understanding is you have to feed the clutch and the TC ensures you don't over rev. RL's graphs say optimum optimum griup is achieved at 10% slip so that't what you's get, whatever the engine tried to do with the back-end while the car is putting out maximum power. So the RL TC balances the revs and slip but it can't generate extra BHP. (Edited by Paul Booth at 2:04 pm on Oct. 1, 2001) Hmmmmmm not quite the way i have been using the Launch Control. If you hit the button and floor the throttle, yes the RLTC will hold the revs at 4000 (or whatever you have set the soft limiter too) and then you just dump the clutch and go. The wheels will spin slightly but as you say on about 10% slip it doesn't take long before you are heading forward at a great rate of knots. The car will not stall, there is just too much power there at 4000 revs for that. As for breaking something well i guess that is a distinct possibility with the shock to the drive train but remember these are racing\sports cars not your average sports saloon. But saying that i still only use the facility once in a while. The one thing that will happen by just dumping the clutch is that the revs will drop slightly, but believe me this is barely noticeable as you are already well on boost. If you slip the clutch at that rpm i guess it wouldn't be too long before you burn't through your clutch!!! As for using the launch control with an auto, i'm sure you can do it, but with less benefit than a manual. Maybe Phil W can give us some feedback as his is now up and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Supragirl Posted October 1, 2001 Share Posted October 1, 2001 I do think that you have to remember that you wouldn't normally do this for every stop/start that you do And from what I remember reading in the RL booklet that we have this is the correct way of using the Launch Control. As Martin said I could not imagine stalling the car this way, like to see if you could!! (Edited by Supragirl at 2:48 pm on Oct. 1, 2001) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 1, 2001 Share Posted October 1, 2001 Quote: from Martin F on 2:37 pm on Oct. 1, 2001[br]The car will not stall, there is just too much power there at 4000 revs for that. As for breaking something well i guess that is a distinct possibility with the shock to the drive train but remember these are racing\sports cars not your average sports saloon. If you slip the clutch at that rpm i guess it wouldn't be too long before you burn't through your clutch!!! As for using the launch control with an auto, i'm sure you can do it, but with less benefit than a manual. Maybe Phil W can give us some feedback as his is now up and running. [envy] Not having driven a manual, and not having more than 2,000RPM on start (wet roads don't count) myself, I accept that it won't stall [/envy]. However, if you think it's not going to break if you keep snapping the clutch, don't let me hinder you on your merry way. I agree, the clutch will burn out if you use that to control the shock, but I think (last time I bought one) they were a bit cheaper than gearboxes and back axles. It's your car, don't let me stop you breaking anything you want to, that's your inalienable right. :biggrin: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich J Posted October 2, 2001 Share Posted October 2, 2001 Quote: from Supragirl on 2:28 pm on Oct. 1, 2001[br]Well my experience on the manual system is as follows:- when the RL button is pressed down..car is in 1st..clutch down and foot flat down on the accelerator pedal...engine revs no higher than 4,000 RPM (or whatever you have set it to) when ready simply lift foot off clutch...(fast as you like) and hold on for dear life!!!!!!!!!!!! And from what I remember reading in the RL booklet that we have this is the correct way of using the Launch Control. You should definately be feeding the clutch in, as described in the manual. Found the Paragraph Page 24 "A common mistake is to bang the clutch in and instantly spin the wheels. The first 10 meters are the most critical phase, even a small amount of wheelspin at these low speeds is very high in percentage terms. The clutch should be slipped while not breaking traction, but not too much to impede forward progress" Used it on the Integra down at Santa Pod this weekend (got rained out so only had one run). Launch was very smooth and impressive, but needed a few runs to get it set up for the strip so I will have to wait until next year. Oh yes launching at 5500rpm on the VTEC cam is VERY noisy :biggrin: (Edited by HardHead42 at 12:11 pm on Oct. 3, 2001) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 5, 2001 Share Posted October 5, 2001 What d'you go and spoil it for Rich? I wanted to know how long the gearbox/diff will last. Mr Wall, I think fitting, soldering and taping 4 parasitic splices onto that farty little cable feeding the ABS unit inside the dashboard, deserves a passing grade in gynaecology. I now feel amply qualified to decorate my living room through the letterbox. Fitted and soldered the injector intercept connectors on the TC (why in God's name don't they come fitted to the TC?). Just got to actually perform the intercept on the ECU now. OK the wires are no longer than the ones inside the dash but at least they're more accessible (do *not* be telling me about your field harness just now ). I fitted a snap fit multi-way connector in the dash too; three connectors and the TC is disconnected and out. I couldn't understand why they give you an intercept connector for the injectors but you are expected to solder direct to the wheel sensor wires. Doesn't make sense, so I didn't. Should have it done for about 11:00 tomorrow, then it's up to Mr Betts for some SLD scoping and FCD fitting. Just got the de-cat pipes to fit next week end and I can start spending the big bucks again: boost, egt, oil temp gauges and pod. Then it's a new wheel set so's I can fit my blasted UK brake set, then I'm not spending a penny more, except when I get a Super Drager, then absolutely nothing more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted October 5, 2001 Author Share Posted October 5, 2001 Quote: from Martin F on 2:37 pm on Oct. 1, 2001[br] As for using the launch control with an auto, i'm sure you can do it, but with less benefit than a manual. Maybe Phil W can give us some feedback as his is now up and running. To get launch to work on an auto you need to apply power braking. This dumps loads of energy into the torque converter and cooks the oil. I have not tried it yet. When I have the tubes and fluid to do a conplete auto box fluid change I might have a couple of goes then change the fluid. As for semi regular use- I would want a very efficient cooler added before I would be willing to risk my auto box. A bit more expensive to repalce that a clutch. (Edited by Phil Wall at 12:18 am on Oct. 6, 2001) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 6, 2001 Share Posted October 6, 2001 Phil, where have you positioned the TC Ali box? I've offered it up to every space I can find but either the cables don't reach or it ends up being exposed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted October 6, 2001 Author Share Posted October 6, 2001 Paul I have located my unit, behind the carpet on the right and side of the passenger foot well. My car alarm was in my favoured position at the begging of the foot well on the side of transmission tunnel. My RL unit is just to the rear of the alarm. It is not noticeable and very easy to get to if required. I have wrapped it in some isolating ally/ foam sheet as things get a bit warm on that side of the foot well. Space on that side of the car is very limited. If you lengthen everything there is plenty of space above the peddles in the driver foot well. I did not want to spend the time extending wires hence my chosen location. Hope that helps. If you would like, I could take some digital pics and forward to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Quote: from Phil Wall on 11:34 pm on Oct. 6, 2001[br]Paul I have located my unit, behind the carpet on the right and side of the passenger foot well. My car alarm was in my favoured position at the begging of the foot well on the side of transmission tunnel. My RL unit is just to the rear of the alarm. It is not noticeable and very easy to get to if required. I have wrapped it in some isolating ally/ foam sheet as things get a bit warm on that side of the foot well. Space on that side of the car is very limited. If you lengthen everything there is plenty of space above the peddles in the driver foot well. I did not want to spend the time extending wires hence my chosen location. Hope that helps. If you would like, I could take some digital pics and forward to you. Thanks Phil. Don't bother with the pictures, I had considered that option but wanted make sure I hadn't missed the obvious. I too wondered about extending the cables but time was pressing and I ran late anyway, thanks to RL providing connectors too small for the wire gauge feeding the injectors. That cost me 1-2 hours of retroactive fixing. Well it's in now and calibrated. My drive up to Pete's and back didn't give me the opportunity to test it so that will have to wait. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted October 7, 2001 Author Share Posted October 7, 2001 Glad to here that the uint is in and calibrated. I have to give it a quick test every now and again just to see if it is working. Under normal driving conditions I don't think it does anything except monitor the system!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Quote: from Phil Wall on 12:13 pm on Oct. 7, 2001[br]Glad to here that the uint is in and calibrated. I have to give it a quick test every now and again just to see if it is working. Under normal driving conditions I don't think it does anything except monitor the system!! Ah well, now we come down to it. I can't make it do anything. I took it onto a long straight unclassified a half mile from my home, stuck a driving wheel on the grass verge and floored it; NOTHING! Ran the monitoring program and it showed the wheel spin and RPM climbing, it even showed a 4.0 volt control voltage appearing but only my right foot on the loud pedal made any difference to the RPM. I tried the various cuts from within the monitor and I could make the engine stall using hard-cut, just like it says, but left to it's own devices it didn't do sqat that I could see. Now before I start swapping files with Racelogic, any hints Phil (or anyone?). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Humour me here, but what setting did you have the control knob set to when you took it onto the verge ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Quote: from Martin F on 3:27 pm on Oct. 7, 2001[br] Humour me here, but what setting did you have the control knob set to when you took it onto the verge ?? All of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Well in that case not sure what you've done. I know that with mine set to Wet that when i come off roundabouts even in the dry i can feel it cut in. If you can find a big open space (and guessing that it's raining down there, as it is here) then try driving in a straight line and then just yanking the steering wheel round provoking the car into a slide, you should then defenitely feel the RLTC cut in. The higher the percentage of slip the more the rear of the car will come round. If you've seen the sensors working on the laptop and you've managed to actuate a hard-cut then that would inidicate to me that you have installed everything OK. Are you driving with the diagnostic plug in still ?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Quote: from Martin F on 3:43 pm on Oct. 7, 2001[br]Are you driving with the diagnostic plug in still ?? That was actually the first question I was expecting to get back. I read that it won't work in some diagnostic modes but it was a little ambiguous as to whether that meant with the diagnostic cable plugged in or the calibration plug plugged in or whether it meant when it was in *full* diagnostic mode, continuously outputting the status strings. In answer to your question, yes I was running with cable connected between the TC and my laptop, running the graphical monitor program. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Well not having either the cable or the plug (previous owner) i'm not sure how this affects things. But i'd guess it would be worth taking it for a drive without anything connected to that port. IMHO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Quote: from Martin F on 4:09 pm on Oct. 7, 2001[br]Well not having either the cable or the plug (previous owner) i'm not sure how this affects things. But i'd guess it would be worth taking it for a drive without anything connected to that port. IMHO Actually, I've been kicking myself that I didn't try that but it seemed so clear at the time that I could run it and see it working on the monitor; now I'm not so sure. I'll wait and see if anyone knows the definitive answer on that one in case there's any other obvious tests I can perform and I can kill a flock of birds with a single stone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich J Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Have you put it in set-up mode with the diag plug in and set it up round a 180 degree corner as described in the manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Quote: from HardHead42 on 5:54 pm on Oct. 7, 2001[br]Have you put it in set-up mode with the diag plug in and set it up round a 180 degree corner as described in the manual? Duh! I've now run it with the diagnostic cable attached and without it. I think I've checked everything now. The only thing I haven't performed a *manual* calibration on is the number of sensor pulses per revolution and I've left that at the default 40. Interestingly, on the wheel sensor setup menu, although it now knows which channels are reference, driven, left & right, and reports the information correctly when you select the channel; on the full menu display it shows them all as reference and left. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Forgot email notify. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wall Posted October 7, 2001 Author Share Posted October 7, 2001 Paul Have you stuck the car on axel stands and tried the Final test. I found that the system did not cut in at 14 km/h due to the minimum RPM being factory set at 2000rpm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rich J Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Next thing I was going to mention was the lower limits of 14km/h and 2000 rpm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Booth Posted October 7, 2001 Share Posted October 7, 2001 Quote: from Phil Wall on 9:49 pm on Oct. 7, 2001[br]Paul Have you stuck the car on axel stands and tried the Final test. I found that the system did not cut in at 14 km/h due to the minimum RPM being factory set at 2000rpm I set the minimum RPM to 1500 before I started any tests, but, thinking about it, was that low enough? I haven't stuck it on axle stands *yet* because I just can't quite get my trolley jack underneath since I went from 45 aspect rears to 35 aspect. DOH! New trolley jack required. Any chance you could write down your settings Phil and let me have a copy. I've gone backwards and forwards through my settings and I can't see anything obvious (I even manually set the wheel sensor data it wouldn't be able to work out - diameter etc.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rolec Posted October 8, 2001 Share Posted October 8, 2001 Paul Just run the car up onto a brick, and then jack it up !! Dean.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Martin F Posted October 8, 2001 Share Posted October 8, 2001 Or use the stock jack first, then continue with the trolley jack. Been there, done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.