carl0s Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 It's definately looking like its' battery related, since more and more electrical circuits are failing to power up as time progresses. Hmmm. Is it not possible for you to try the battery from your Kia thing, rather than relying on jump leads and shitty croccodile connectors? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted June 16, 2006 Share Posted June 16, 2006 I think charging the battery up with it wholly disconnected from the car is a good first step. If it then reads 12.5v or thereabouts it's OK and can go back in the car. If there is a big drain on it then there is something up car-wise, if not it's probably just the battery... If it is car related, we'll cross that bridge as necessary -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarjo Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 It's definately looking like its' battery related, since more and more electrical circuits are failing to power up as time progresses. Hmmm. Is it not possible for you to try the battery from your Kia thing, rather than relying on jump leads and shitty croccodile connectors? Hey - heavy duty, deluxe jump leads for me. No £1.99 in a plastic bag jobby. And what do you mean Kia thing??? Its a sorento if you please Didnt try the battery off the sorento last night as I'm not convinced it is a battery prob. But, to shut you guys up and with the loss of light, left mine on charge over night. Will test it shortly, if it works I've got a lot of hats I'll be willing to eat Edited: Just tested battery, one multimeter is lighting upto 12 and another older one is still reading just under 9. Going to take battery back to Halfords and let them test it. Hopefully they'll swap it for a new battery then that will either work or eliminate. I'm still not convinced its battery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarjo Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 Anyone up yet? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
absz Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Anyone up yet? yep started work at 7 today:( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarjo Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 yep started work at 7 today:( On a Saturday Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carl0s Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 And what do you mean Kia thing??? Its a sorento if you please Saw one of those on Thursday, thought it looked fabulous from the rear - didn't see the front. Was surprised to see the Kia badge. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Just about up...... Don't want to be though!! The Sorento is quite a nice car for a Korean make (I used to work for Daewoo ). I think they are taking a lot of their styling ideas from Mercedes, and probably using Merc engines under licence too. I know Ssangyong were. Anyway, to get back on topic. I was thinking about this last night (yeah, sad I know). The problem occurred when you plugged the switch connector for the N20 in and it sparked. After that things started to go dead. There's no fuses blown but something is making the battery go dead (unless its the battery itself?). I'm thinking that the N20 solenoid may be on, which draws ? amps... maybe 10A? This, if its being energised permenantly, will flatten the battery nicely and, depending where it is connected to, may cause sufficient voltage drop across the feed wire from the fuse box to stop certian critical systems from powering up?? Just a guess. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Hmm, having two completely different readings from two multimeters isn't a solid start to the diagnosis procedure First, get yourself a multimeter you can trust Then, disconnect the nitrous system's power supply and ground from the rest of the car to take it out of the loop. Then plumb in the battery, check it's voltage, and take it from there. -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarjo Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 Just got back from Halfords. Battery was tested and . . dead. So brought new battery home fixed it on car and . . . nothing. I'm getting the ping noises when I put the keys in the ignition and still getting lights and a few bits (not radio). I havent checked anything on the aem - scared to go there. What next? How can I remove the n2o from the loop - this was fitted before my time and dont really know much about the system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarjo Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 Hmm, having two completely different readings from two multimeters isn't a solid start to the diagnosis procedure First, get yourself a multimeter you can trust Then, disconnect the nitrous system's power supply and ground from the rest of the car to take it out of the loop. Then plumb in the battery, check it's voltage, and take it from there. -Ian Surely disconnecting the nos system will just prevent the draw, not get things going again?? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Trace its wiring back to where ever it goes to the main +ive supply (probably the fuse box behind the battery) and unplug it at the nearest convenient location. There may be an in line fuse you can pull. If this is the cause of the problems it *MAY* be pulling enough current from wherever it is teed into to drop the voltage enough to stop the systems powering up. Most control systems won't work at around 9V. Now you have a new battery stick it on charge (they only come part charged) and check that all fuses and relays are pushed firmly in. Check the wiring to the AEM. It may have an in line fuse that needs checking. Connect up the battery & check the voltage with a good voltmeter (the good one will show around 13.5 to 14V when the battery is on charge... test them both & make sure they are set to DC!!). Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike M Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Sarjo, If you have an ammeter then disconnect the positive to the battery and connect the meter in series. This will tell you how much current is being drawn, normally a car sitting parked up should draw about 0.05Amp. You can then pull fuses till the current drops and that should identify the offending circuit. If someone knew what the expected current draw is when the key is in position 2 you could then do the same procedure. Hope this helps mate, it's helped me out a few times fault finding dodgy circuits. Mike Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarjo Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 Cant see where the cabling on the nos is going, so ignoring this for a while. Back tracking on what I did and starting to remove the dash again to see if I've pulled a wire or something simple. I've found a loose wire at the back of the odometer but can imagine that would have any effect - new problem, cant see where its got to go back in. Will take a photo and post that later. Really am getting fed up now. I've got til five this afternoon before I need to pull out of the show tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarjo Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 Ok - I think I've found it. The big 50amp AM1 fuse has blown - dont ask why I didnt check that first. Now where the bloody hell can I get one of those from on a Saturday lunchtime. Mr T dont stock them. Or is there one on the car that isnt being used that could be borrowed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranz Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 I don't think there will be any that aren't being used. You can use household fuse wire if you *MUST*. 50A is 50A. It shuldn't matter as a temporary measure. You can get a card of various fuse wire from any electrical shop. Just pop the clear plastic top off with a screwdriver & solder a new piece of fuse wire between the two thicker wires. Wonder why it blew??? At least this way you will have a plentiful supply of fuses (fuse wire!). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Wont Halfords have one? or something similar at all Jo? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarjo Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 Wont Halfords have one? or something similar at all Jo? Just got back from Halfords, they didnt have anything like. But one of their nice workers told me of a nearby scrappy. Just got back with three from there, one 40amp, one 50amp and one 60amp. Scared to put one in incase a) it still doesnt work or b) that one blows too. Here goes . . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Did it work ? Is he still alive............ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Just got back from Halfords, they didnt have anything like. But one of their nice workers told me of a nearby scrappy. Just got back with three from there, one 40amp, one 50amp and one 60amp. Scared to put one in incase a) it still doesnt work or b) that one blows too. Here goes . . . . Jo, try the 40A one first, but Disconnecct the NOS system totally first, and dont try to start it. if its all okay, and the fuse doesnt blow, try the 50A one, and try to start it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sarjo Posted June 17, 2006 Author Share Posted June 17, 2006 Jo, try the 40A one first, but Disconnecct the NOS system totally first, and dont try to start it. if its all okay, and the fuse doesnt blow, try the 50A one, and try to start it Exactly what I did without reading your post. I must be learning something from you guys All fired up and started first time. Only thing not working now is the cold air con?? Not even looking at that today. Cars gotta show to be at tomorrow, so cars gotta be cleaned. MANY THANKS TO ALL THOSE WHO HAVE CONTRIBUTED TO MY END RESULT. I COULDNT HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT YOU Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 And with nearly two hours to go, easy Guess you blew that fuse by shorting stuff initially and there isn't an underlying problem. You've cured a bad battery issue as well, hurrah! If the aircon isn't cold then maybe it needs regassing -Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wkdtime Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 Just read all this, well done Ian and K14SUP....you's all da man:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewen Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 I live for deadlines...That was so exciting, I'm going to have a lie down Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobSheffield Posted June 17, 2006 Share Posted June 17, 2006 maybe in removing the dash the orange Aircon multiplug isnt clipped in 100% - happens on mine all the time - you would think i would learn! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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