bromy Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 I have my front caliper in pieces at the moment:sos: now I have cleaned everything up but how the hell do you put it back together, does the rubber seal and retaining ring go in first or do you put the seal on the piston first, I have tried every thing and dont want to damage the new seals Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom S Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 PM DB! or msn his, he will help as he recently did this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz1 Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 I have my front caliper in pieces at the moment:sos: now I have cleaned everything up but how the hell do you put it back together, does the rubber seal and retaining ring go in first or do you put the seal on the piston first, I have tried every thing and dont want to damage the new seals uk or j spec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bromy Posted April 14, 2006 Author Share Posted April 14, 2006 J-spec, front twin pots Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gaz1 Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 J-spec, front twin pots well if you get stuck i have 2 fronts spare Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt Harwood Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 I've never taken a J-spec caliper apart, but on the UK spec, the rubber seal goes on the piston first, then the dust seal goes around the piston and the retaining clip hold the seal to the caliper. - It's bloody messy and fiddly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 The rubber ring seal goes into the housing first, then you use the grease in the refurb kit to lube it and slide the pistons in. Fill the inside of the rubber dust seal with more of the pink grease and pop it over the end of the piston, and then press the outer edge into the recess in the top of the piston housing. Finally, fit the circlip into the groove in the dust seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bromy Posted April 14, 2006 Author Share Posted April 14, 2006 Nice one Digsy, very easy once you know how, I had a stressful morning it was like something off the krypton factor.. thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
markrzs Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 thats handy to know as i'm going to be refurb my uk's soon Is there some kind of step by step guide somewhere ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bromy Posted April 14, 2006 Author Share Posted April 14, 2006 After Digsy's help I thought I would take a few piccies Parts required Piston seal, Piston, Dust seal, Dust seal retainer Clean bore ready for piston Fit piston seal Slide piston into bore Fit dust seal Press seal into groove use something blunt as not to damage the seal (One of the utensils off her George Foreman wash it and put it away before she notices) Slide retaining ring into outer ring of dust seal Job done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 Nice one. PMSL at your George Foreman seal insertion tool! Did you do the "hang on these seals are far too big for the pistons" double take before actually trying to fit them, like I did? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 Hold on a moment..... On my J-spec fronts the calipers sit in a separate aluminium cast housing that bolts onto the slider. Those look like they are one-piece iron jobs, like my rears. Are there two different designs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bromy Posted April 14, 2006 Author Share Posted April 14, 2006 Did you do the "hang on these seals are far too big for the pistons" double take before actually trying to fit them, like I did? Very much so, thought I had the wrong kit:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bromy Posted April 14, 2006 Author Share Posted April 14, 2006 They are front calipers off a 97 NA, and as you say cast iron.. I dont know much about the different specs between models but these once removed from the caliper hanger have four male torx bolts so they can then be split in two Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted April 14, 2006 Share Posted April 14, 2006 Hold on a moment..... On my J-spec fronts the calipers sit in a separate aluminium cast housing that bolts onto the slider. Those look like they are one-piece iron jobs, like my rears. Are there two different designs? yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boombastictiger Posted April 19, 2007 Share Posted April 19, 2007 I take it you have to bleed the system first before you can do this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian C Posted April 20, 2007 Share Posted April 20, 2007 Nice one Nick I've poached that for the FAQs http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=107717 -Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tango Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 if my caliper is off the car for refurb, do i just leave the brake pipe to one side? will it drain all the fluid out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 if my caliper is off the car for refurb, do i just leave the brake pipe to one side? will it drain all the fluid out? It will yes, if that's a problem for you (although I can't think why it should be) you can buy a brake hose clamp and clamp the hose off. DO NOT clamp braided hoses, only rubber ones. You can also seal the banjo with an ordinary nut and bolt and the original copper washers. Renew the washers when you put it back together though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tango Posted July 6, 2007 Share Posted July 6, 2007 Hi CW, I got these pads of you a while back and have not have time to change them until now the caliper is a bit sticking, might as well do it all, new pads, new seals, painting. tango Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 21, 2008 Share Posted September 21, 2008 bumping this as its a great guide and i want to know how easy the piston should slide in and out of the bore after a refurb like this? I had a bit of hassle removing a piston today however the bore and piston were very clean. Still I cleaned off the old grease, regreased and test fit it back in a ways but i could not then pull it back out by hand.............is this normal? I think it was the rubber seal causing the problem does it swell with age? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWD Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 Yes it should be tight even when newly fitted, if it wasnt the fluid would blow past the seal. The recommended way to remove is with compressed air. getting them out by hand is a real pain as you cannot be sure you are applying a consistent straight pressure so the piston may then squint in the bore . Just did one on a four pot front and the only reason i did it by hand was because i knew i was replacing the piston and seal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scooter Posted September 22, 2008 Share Posted September 22, 2008 cheers, I guess i just thought it would move a bit easier even though its a tolerance fit, i'll make sure i'm ready to fully reassemble the next time i pop them back in! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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