Tourniquet Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Do you need to move the rope as you go or is it doing its job once initially stuffed in ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 You've got to feed it into each cylinder as you work on that cylinder. When you remove the valve retainer, the valve will drop down into the cylinder unless something stops it. The rope basically coils up on top of the piston and then jams against the bottom of the valve, stopping it from dropping. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tourniquet Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Ok so to clarify as Im a dumbass, does that mean each of the 6 sparkplugs holes covers 2 of the 24 valves...or is it cylinders?!?! See my problem is I don't know what alot of the parts are called but once I delve in I can see what needs to be done lol. Thanks matey Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 No problem. You've got 6 cylinders, each with 4 valves. So each sparkplug services 1 cylinders worth (ie 2 inlet and 2 exhaust valves) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tourniquet Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 I understand I've made several attempts at getting the little locks back into place now. It's so fiddly ! I finally get them in place but the spring hasn't compressed back into place so it looks as it should only poking out higher than the rest that I haven't touched yet ! Am I being shy at spanking it one to push it all in or is there something else I've overlooked ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tourniquet Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 BUMP ! Sorry, pokey tongue was supposed to be grin lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnHandy Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 I understand I've made several attempts at getting the little locks back into place now. It's so fiddly ! I finally get them in place but the spring hasn't compressed back into place so it looks as it should only poking out higher than the rest that I haven't touched yet ! Am I being shy at spanking it one to push it all in or is there something else I've overlooked ? The size diference quoted by terminator in your other thread? posibley? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tourniquet Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Im thinking it might be something else as I've replace one on each sie at the moment - exaust and inlet. One of them has to be right but still having trouble getting them both in - grrrr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Pics may help Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tourniquet Posted May 31, 2010 Share Posted May 31, 2010 Thanks guys, it's ok I was just being too shy with it. After bouncing up and down on it like a hooker with an apprenticeship a few times it has all locked down. Well sort of, one clip pokes up a tad as in the guide so just a question of taking them out and trying again till they both seat as they should. Thanks again all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted May 31, 2010 Author Share Posted May 31, 2010 Sorry for the delay. Work beckoned! If it looks like this:- Then it's wrong. It needs to end up looking like this:- Once you think they're locked in, give the end of the valve a tap with a plastic mallet. If they're not properly in then they'll hopefully ping out then rather than when you're doing 70 on the motorway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leelbuk Posted November 23, 2010 Share Posted November 23, 2010 Hi Tony/any one else who might be able to answer! Found the following tool on snap-on's site which looks the same but without any knurling and cheaper! Any reason why I shouldn't get this one? http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=78777&PartNo=ga317&group_id=1578&supersede=&store=uk&tool=all Instead of the one you had? http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=72214&group_ID=1578&store=uk&dir=catalog Perhaps it is different in size or maybe wasn't for sale when you made the faq? I'm totally prepared for the fact that I may have asked a stupid question here as I am inexperienced when it comes to the inside of an engine but thought I'd ask as I have no lathe and think £50 for two small pieces of metal and a magnet is more painful than £34! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 IMO they are both crap, I bought the dearer one and really cannot get on with it, it is very easy to hit the bore where the bucket has to go and you will never get the bucket to properly go back in its bore, if you force it there is a chance it will stick and hold a valve open,I have never managed to get the collet installer to work either but that may just be me, that combined with the fact I have not had a head refurb recently where quite a few of the valves did not need reseating I think doing the seals on the car is only viable if you need to sell the car, if you are keeping it and running it tuned it is false economy as any baked on carbon from the oil leaking into the cylinder can lead to hopt spots and detonation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leelbuk Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 Cheers dude, I appreciate that the better thing to do would be remove the head and do this however most people just put up with the smoke at start up and repeatedly say this is ok/without serious consequence. I have a leaky cam cover seal so I thought I'd replace them which then led we to think about changing the cams for some 264/264's whilst I'm in there which then again led me to think that it would be a good opportunity to change the stem seals too. As far as I know I didn't have a problem with abnormal det before (when recently mapped by Matt he didn't mention any) and I've not even seen 1000 miles on fresh oil since that day plus my seals aren't majorly bad compared to some so I think that I should be ok here and changing the seals should at least prevent any further build up as you say. With this in mind, shouldn't the general advice on the forum be that as soon as there is sign of leaky stem seals that they are changed immediately rather than the laid back attitude towards leaky stem seals, especially with pushing the stock twins further and further where det is more likely? Oh, and the original question still stands is the cheaper, non knarled version suitable for the job? I'm going to be taking my precious time to ensure I don't mark the head/bucket bores etc as time is not an issue as much as it would be in the trade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 Hi Tony/any one else who might be able to answer! Found the following tool on snap-on's site which looks the same but without any knurling and cheaper! Any reason why I shouldn't get this one? http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=78777&PartNo=ga317&group_id=1578&supersede=&store=uk&tool=all Instead of the one you had? http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=72214&group_ID=1578&store=uk&dir=catalog Perhaps it is different in size or maybe wasn't for sale when you made the faq? I'm totally prepared for the fact that I may have asked a stupid question here as I am inexperienced when it comes to the inside of an engine but thought I'd ask as I have no lathe and think £50 for two small pieces of metal and a magnet is more painful than £34! The simple answer is I don't know. I've not seen / used the GA317 so can't comment. Why not order it and if it's no good send it back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leelbuk Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 The simple answer is I don't know. I've not seen / used the GA317 so can't comment. Why not order it and if it's no good send it back? That's what I think I'll do, was just asking in case you had come across it on your search for the tool and chose not to order it for a particular reason. I'll order it and let you know what I find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted November 24, 2010 Author Share Posted November 24, 2010 IMO they are both crap, I bought the dearer one and really cannot get on with it, it is very easy to hit the bore where the bucket has to go and you will never get the bucket to properly go back in its bore, if you force it there is a chance it will stick and hold a valve open,I have never managed to get the collet installer to work either but that may just be me, that combined with the fact I have not had a head refurb recently where quite a few of the valves did not need reseating I think doing the seals on the car is only viable if you need to sell the car, if you are keeping it and running it tuned it is false economy as any baked on carbon from the oil leaking into the cylinder can lead to hopt spots and detonation. It could be that you need to machine it down a bit more to give yourself greater clearance to the bores. I didn't have any issues with clipping the bores, but I was being uber-careful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRALOOPY Posted November 24, 2010 Share Posted November 24, 2010 I put a 45 deg angle on the alloy bit as I thought it could hit the bores too. I also found that you do not need to hit the tool just push it down with a snap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 I put a 45 deg angle on the alloy bit as I thought it could hit the bores too. I also found that you do not need to hit the tool just push it down with a snap. Not with my valve springs you can't !!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jevansio Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Lee, did you see that tool I made on the previous pages? If you want to borrow it to make the job less stressfull I will send it you pm me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
leelbuk Posted November 25, 2010 Share Posted November 25, 2010 Lee, did you see that tool I made on the previous pages? If you want to borrow it to make the job less stressfull I will send it you pm me Thanks for the kind offer Jay! Snap-on are delivering the GA317 tool tomorrow so I should know by then if I can get by with it or not so I may yet take you up on that offer! That tool you made is a bit of genius and I don't think I'd have bothered with the snap-on one if I'd had thought about asking you to borrow yours! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 Thanks for the kind offer Jay! Snap-on are delivering the GA317 tool tomorrow so I should know by then if I can get by with it or not so I may yet take you up on that offer! That tool you made is a bit of genius and I don't think I'd have bothered with the snap-on one if I'd had thought about asking you to borrow yours! We have the tool that you bolt on and lever the valves down with and that works much better, by the time youve had collets flying around you may as well take the head off!!! Ill have a bet that as you are single and changing the kit anyway I can remove the head with inlet and refurb it inc reseating the valves quicker than you can change seals using the kit, thats after you have removed the turbo kit and not inc refitting it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TLicense Posted November 26, 2010 Author Share Posted November 26, 2010 We have the tool that you bolt on and lever the valves down with and that works much better, by the time youve had collets flying around you may as well take the head off Sorry John, but I'm going to have to disagree with that. There's no way that replacing the seals with the head on the car is less hassle than removing the inlet and turbo's, even more so if you still have the stock turbo's. Paying you £400 is probably less hassle, but then if you're charging circa £50 an hour I have my doubts as to how throrough someone can be in pulling off the turbo's, the head, stripping the head down and then rebuilding it and then re-assembling it in 8 hours. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SUPRALOOPY Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 Not with my valve springs you can't !!!!!! I was not doing yours..LOL Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dude Posted November 26, 2010 Share Posted November 26, 2010 Sorry John, but I'm going to have to disagree with that. There's no way that replacing the seals with the head on the car is less hassle than removing the inlet and turbo's, even more so if you still have the stock turbo's. Paying you £400 is probably less hassle, but then if you're charging circa £50 an hour I have my doubts as to how throrough someone can be in pulling off the turbo's, the head, stripping the head down and then rebuilding it and then re-assembling it in 8 hours. The last one I did on the car was an all day affair, I would not do another, give me a car with no turbo system on it (as Lee is changing set ups) with my air tools and I bet I have the head off before you can do the first cylinder VSOS. Note there are no turbos on the car Tony!!!!! If we are talking turbos as well its a diff ball gane but Lee is changing kits so turbos don't come into it, we can always try it for real if you fancy a challenge;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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