jon_dragon Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 I didn't know you could get magnetic sump plugs for aluminium. Oh yeah, its aluminium isnt it, hahahaha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 (edited) What you could do is drill the hole with the sump still full then the oil might wash the swarf outwards but it could get a bit messy Edited December 30, 2013 by Dnk (see edit history) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jon_dragon Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 What you could do is drill the hole with the sump still full then the oil might wash the swarf outwards but it could get a bit messy Make sure its hot oil too so it flows better, lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 Make sure its hot oil too so it flows better, lol Hot and messy my eyes, my eyes, wear goggles is my suggestion if you try this method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason a Posted December 30, 2013 Share Posted December 30, 2013 can see this ending in tears. engine out, do it right Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 Going to leave a small amount of oil in yes. Drill using foam or white grease to collect swarf. then rinse the sump thoroughly. It has been done by many members successfully so this will be the method i follow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 How is the foam gonna collect the swarf going into the engine just out of interest? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 I actually had to drill and tap an N/A sandwich plate over the last couple of days. For laughs I did it on the donor engine (a scrapper, the plate is for another engine, a TT). I used grease and had the advantage of the engine being out and on a stand, so I could see just what I was doing. I then dropped the sump and removed the sandwich plate. If anyone *REALLY* thinks there will be no swarf in the oil pan , they are kidding themselves, there was loads. Recipe for disaster, premature oil pump wear, seized pump, God knows what.... I see how some people come up with these 4 grand N/A to Turbo jobs now - - - Updated - - - How is the foam gonna collect the swarf going into the engine just out of interest? Perhaps it makes it as smooth as a baby's bum? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Ahhhh, I see, softens the swarf... Makes sense now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted January 1, 2014 Author Share Posted January 1, 2014 I actually had to drill and tap an N/A sandwich plate over the last couple of days. For laughs I did it on the donor engine (a scrapper, the plate is for another engine, a TT). I used grease and had the advantage of the engine being out and on a stand, so I could see just what I was doing. I then dropped the sump and removed the sandwich plate. If anyone *REALLY* thinks there will be no swarf in the oil pan , they are kidding themselves, there was loads. Recipe for disaster, premature oil pump wear, seized pump, God knows what.... I see how some people come up with these 4 grand N/A to Turbo jobs now - - - Updated - - - Perhaps it makes it as smooth as a baby's bum? I'm not expecting there to be no swarf hence using grease to reduce the amount. But I will be thoroughly cleaning and flushing the sump. As I said there are many members who have done it in situ and have had no problems and are running very nice na/t setups. I am also building a second engine as mentioned which will replace this one once I have my setup to the spec I want and have everything correctly fabricated etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
natony Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Complete the sentence: If a job is worth doing its worth doing.....? 1, on the cheap 2, in a rush 3, badly 4, well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fly Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Dude, why not drill the top of the sump and have a vertical fitting for the drain, means you can remove the sump out the way with engine in situ and no swarf. Maybe not ideal but food for thought if you don't want to drop the subframe or engine out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris0132 Posted January 1, 2014 Share Posted January 1, 2014 Complete the sentence: If a job is worth doing its worth doing.....? 1, on the cheap 2, in a rush 3, badly 4, well Technically that saying the answer is "worth doing right" ;-) and Scott just give it a go mate if you take your time and do it how the other people have then you never know and at the end of the day as you said you've got a spare engine I believe in you sir :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted January 2, 2014 Author Share Posted January 2, 2014 Technically that saying the answer is "worth doing right" ;-) and Scott just give it a go mate if you take your time and do it how the other people have then you never know and at the end of the day as you said you've got a spare engine I believe in you sir :-) Cheers. Like is said im going to be following the footsteps of others and will be uber careful. Cheers Fly i had not considered this. If i had a ramp, i would probably loosen the front subframe and take the lower sump off. But unfortunately i don't hence following the route i am. But this thread was asking people for mechanical assistance to the route im going to take above. (Unless someone has a ramp or pit and wants to help complete the job an alternate way) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason a Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 so you have bought the cheapest or using free parts, many people have told you not to drill in situ, but your not taking this on board, recipe for disaster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 so you have bought the cheapest or using free parts, many people have told you not to drill in situ, but your not taking this on board, recipe for disaster. Again this is a thread asking for mechanical assistance not your view on how or what im doing. Above it is clear that i have taken on board what people have said, and i have also said that i am looking at alternative methods should the suitable location become available to use. And no i have not bought the cheapest parts, i have bought known parts at very reasonable prices and have found a few very very good deals. I think you'll find the only 'free' parts that are on my car are indicators, speakers, ht leads and thats it as far as i can remember. Everything else is either brand new or used but from a member. Check your facts before piping up with non helpful comments. At least the previous warnings carried suitable alternatives and solutions..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jason a Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 just an observation, if you choose to ignore what mechanics and traders are saying, upto you...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 just an observation, if you choose to ignore what mechanics and traders are saying, upto you...... Again i am not ignoring what they are saying. I have taken on board the facts and will complete the work to the means available to me. I am also in talks with mechanics about the work too so i am not blindly carrying out work. My main aim is to build a low'ish powered na-t setup, that i can adjust and setup correctly. Then with the engine im building move all my parts to this once i have a setup i am happy with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Benjy Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Then with the engine im building move all my parts to this once i have a setup i am happy with. Including the parts that may contain swarf that may contaminate the new engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted January 3, 2014 Share Posted January 3, 2014 Including the parts that may contain swarf that may contaminate the new engine? I was going to say this but the op knows best so no point in posting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott87 Posted January 3, 2014 Author Share Posted January 3, 2014 I was going to say this but the op knows best so no point in posting Why would you be petty and say i know best, i clearly dont when im posting asking for help and taking advice. I have said over and over that i am taking on everyones points. Ive also explained my need for a workspace etc to be able to drop the pan and do it that way. Unfortunately at present one is not available to me. No parts that i will change to the new engine will be contaminated with swarf? What part would i possibly be moving that would not be able to be cleaned. And if you say Turbo then thats already covered as that will not be being swapped over..... If one of these na/ts that has done the work the way i was asking about had gone pop i would be heartily avoiding this method, but they haven't. Im also not ruling out completing the work one of the other ways as people have pointed out. But again for the 3rd time, im asking for assistance mechanically, no matter which direction i take, not criticism or snide comments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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