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Drift/Track single turbo 6 speed


David Reid
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Harnesses

 

A big shout out to John at 800BHP for supplying the harnesses at short notice :worthy:

 

http://www.800bhp.com/

 

As my long term aim is to get a BDC licence I went for harnesses to meet the regs straight off, 4 point FIA 3 inch for passenger and 6 point for driver. I found that standard seatbelt eyebolts fitted the standard supra mounting points for the non standard mounts I used FIA spreader plates.

 

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My Supra will be a trailer queen so the front bumper will be coming off a lot. The S13 used zip ties and I got really fed up of continually cutting them off them refitting them, so I used some bonnet pins on the supra. Neat strong, easy to use and I think look good:-

 

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While I was fitted them I also put pins in the bonnet (as the car didn’t come with lock and also preparation for BDC) image

 

The last jobs before it could be driven were make propshaft + 70mm from DaveMac

 

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Then roll the arches and get the wheels on. I got slightly carried away and even though I am running an additional 10mm on the front and + 20mm at the rear the rims could come out further.

 

Anyway these are the pictures back on its wheels with the mirrors on (picture quality isn’t great as it was getting dark

 

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I also got a chance last night to make some lock spacers +6mm and set the front track (1 degree toe in) I don’t plan any backward entries, just learning so it will be enough for the moment. Now it is essentially ready for its 1st outing to SupraPod on Saturday, 0.5 bar boost on standard UK management. After that my plan is to fit the AEM and some bigger injectors, wind the boost up and get some more lock as there is plenty of room. I already have some other hubs to mess about with.

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Theres some good work gone into that Dave, best of luck with it.

 

What else, apart from the new clips, holds the front bumper in place?

 

I want to do something similar with my own track car when I get a front lip for it and I thought the bumper would need to be modified to nearly "click" into place or at least be held firmly in position even before the fasteners came into play.

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Nicely done Dave, I look forward to seeing this tomorrow :)

 

Having just read from the start, that blue supra looked to have been a UK spec. It had the bonnet scoop intake on the offside cam cover.

 

What happend to the old turbos?, they'll have been steel internals with bigger wastgate if it was.

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Theres some good work gone into that Dave, best of luck with it.

 

What else, apart from the new clips, holds the front bumper in place?

 

I want to do something similar with my own track car when I get a front lip for it and I thought the bumper would need to be modified to nearly "click" into place or at least be held firmly in position even before the fasteners came into play.

 

Thanks, the pins are very easy on the supra it uses the original bolt in the bumper to act as location. So it does click in place I can show you if your at supra pod if not I'll add some more pics

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Nicely done Dave, I look forward to seeing this tomorrow :)

 

Having just read from the start, that blue supra looked to have been a UK spec. It had the bonnet scoop intake on the offside cam cover.

 

What happend to the old turbos?, they'll have been steel internals with bigger wastgate if it was.

 

Yes it was a uk car so has 550's looking back I should have un it with the steel twins. But I sold them to go single

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Looks good, love the stance, is that a monaro smashed up in the background? yours?

 

Thanks

The car inthe background is a holdon and has a Calloway tuned 400 bhp ls1. It's for the next project you weren't supposed to spot it :shrug:

 

it may even go in the supra but it doesn't seem right some as it will be less power than this with injectors and the aem. But the sound of the Ls1 :eyebrows:

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Just got back from Pod, I was almost sick after running the diff in for 30 minutes in figure of 8's we worked out its approx 1500 fogure of 8's in that time.

 

Then it was on to donats which highlighted a nasty noise from the back, after some fettling we cured that.

 

Then I had a go on the big circuit, Lex let me go out on my own and I spun on the 1st corner :p. I wont say I was good because i wasn't but I had great fun. But during this the car lost all boost.

 

Lex then took me out to show what the car could do (no time to look at boost), that was a great passenger ride [COOL][/COOL]

 

I wanted to get the car fixed and go out again for another run with Lex behind the wheel, but on investigation the turbo had seized :cry:

 

I have no idea as we immediately checked the turbo oil feed and we had 1/4 litre of oil from 30 seconds running. The return is also #10 so huge, I'll get it all apart tomorrow.

 

If its screwed I think I'll change the turbo flange and go to an HX30 or 35. The get back to pod again.

 

I had a great day and thank to Lex for finding me somewhere to run the diff in and the great drive of my car :)

 

If anyone got any picture please put them up :thumbs:

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I managed to get the turbo off again today to investigate why it seized

 

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Taking the turbo apart the compressor wheel and housing look fine

 

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Then in the core I found the problem

 

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The thrust bearing has split and failed. It have no idea why as oil feed is good and return free flowing #10. Any ideas? There is a thread inthe technical section about this as well with more info

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Thanks for the comments Chris, the turbo I have found is an American one. I have had the turbo apart and the thrust bearing has fractured and jammed the turbo up. Pics in the update below and have you seen anything like this before.

 

Can't say I have David, but turbos are something I just farm out, I rarely have cause to strip them down these days. I am sure one of the turbo specialist companies could offer some possible explanations though. At least all the bits seem to still be contained in the cartidge and haven't migrated to the sump :) Ball bearing turbos have a nasty habit of sending balls down the cartridge drain when they go pop :(

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Another casualty from the weekend was the greddy gauges. The boost gauge started sticking then the needle fell off !!!!!!!

 

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I bought new senders at great cost for both temperature gauges but the oil one just read max (top one) all the time so I disconected it. The water one (bottom) was Reading fine then suddenly flicked to 150+ and won't come back.

 

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So that's all the JDM gauges broken, money well spent !!!! Is it worth replacing them or are all Greddy gauges cr4p?

 

The rebuild cost for my turbo was 450+ vat for out dated technology so I have opted for a Borg Warner this time. The new turbo has been ordered and to save any problems with this one I am going to remake the oil feed with #3 fittings to make sure it all works fine.

 

I am also going to do a full oil and filter change and may engne flush to try and remove any bits of turbo bearing in the sump.

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  • 1 month later...

Another update, after the Turbo failure I sent the Turbo away and was quoted £250 upwards to repair, which for a turbo I didn’t really want to run was quite a lot.

 

For the replacement I wanted a journal bearing (to save the mega money rebuild when a bb core goes), T4 with 3inch V-band for approx 550bhp and quick spool.

 

I discounted Holset purely because I would have to change the manifold flange and any adaptor would cause, the turbo clearance problems, they also look long units and I already struggle for clearance on the downpipe.

 

Garetts are all expensive and nothing new on the technology front, after a suggestion from Greg @ Protuner (who will be mapping it) I started looking at Borg Warner turbos. This was the short list with American quoted wheel horse power from Full Race:-

 

 

• S200sx 75/70 T4 (A/R 0.83,1.0,1.09,1.15,1.22) FR Rate to 480 whp

• S300sx 83/75 T4 (A/R 0.88, 0.91, 1.00) FR rate to 500-680+whp + state GT35 equilavent

• S300sx 88/75 T4 (A/R .88, 0.91, 1.00) FR Rate to 450-750whp +state as similar to T04z

• S300sx 91/79 T4 (A/R .88, 0.91) FR Rate to 550-830+rwhp

Ideally I wanted a 83/75 0.91, but there were none in stock and a 8 week lead time (I want to get the car out again before then). So I opted for the S300x 88/75 0.88, I think this is the Turbo Bon is running on the DW 32, I Pm’d him but no reply as i guess he is still busy fixing the R32

 

A few days later the turbo arrived:-

 

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As you can see the wheels are quite a bit bigger than the previous turbo. The oil feed is different to others I have worked with is this #3 Female?

 

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I trialled the turbo on and to my surprise it fits better than the previous one:-

 

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I have listed all the additional bits I am also going to completely remake the turbo oil feed with #3 fitting ensuring good oil supply to the new turbo as this was the jduged cause of the failing of the old unit.

While I am reworking the install I will also add a big filter and get the AEM temperature sensor installed in just before the throttle ready for mapping.

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Right a bit of a catch up.

 

To finish off the turbo install I needed to reengineer the turbo oil drain with another #10 90. The oil feed is all new #4 from block then #3 to the turbo with a nice 90. These are the new bits from speedflow:-

 

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Return line refitted

 

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I then mocked up the intake and found it fouled on the previously drilled and tapped blanked water feed. So removed it and welded them up for extra clearance.

 

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Back together with 4inch filter and high pressure side pipework adapted and refitted.

 

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I also took the oportunity to make the midpipe fit a bit better and added 3 inches to it while it was apart

 

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At this point I also fitted the AEM intake temp sensor, this was my 1st go with an AC TIG but the results are quite good.

 

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Replacement boost gauge also fitted to replace the failed one:-

 

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I decided now that I had a bigger turbo than the fuel system would support it would be silly to have it mapped once, then upgrade at a later date and remap again.

 

So I ordered a bosch 044 which I fitted in tank using a cut and shut original mounting bracket.

 

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I also ordered some 1000cc injectors, siemens low impedance to work with the UK loom with no mods and a new rail to convert to topfeed, then adjustable fuel pressure regulator.

 

Intake manifold off:-

 

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New rail and injectors in:-

 

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Injector seat adaptors, which I sealed into the head

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Injector flying connectors which came with the kit and seem a good solution to chopping and soldering the loom:-

 

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Dash 6 fuel lines on:-

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Note to check for leaks I pressurised with the top of the inlet manifold off then, refitted when I had comfidence in everything.

Edited by David Reid (see edit history)
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Why do you have such a large length of hose from the pump to hanger outlet?

 

The reason fo the excessively long hose is to avoid the hose crimping itself as braided hose doesnt like following a tight radius.

 

Ideally the 044 should have a straight push on connector not a 90, but the bits to fit were supplied by Paul at Whiff bits, so I am guessing that they aren't available and they must have to do something similar with there cars.

 

Above the pump in the tank is nothing but fresh air fuel, so I thought better to have a large radius and no possibility to restrict the fuel flow. I see no disadvantage

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  • 3 weeks later...

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