4leks Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 I wouldn't touch drilled brakes, especially from eBay Brakes are not smth you want to compromise on Even grooved ones are not that good tbh compare to standard UK Toyota's. I've got 3G grooved on mine after my standard gone & tbh I think standard UK spec were better option with upgraded pads Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w41k3r Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 what parts completley wrong homer i didn`t say why my pads warped the racing part was from my previous post about me not having a problem with the drilled/grooved disks so far, i just said my standard ones warped and read in posts it had happend to a few people so i changed to drilled/grooved to try avoid that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 what parts completley wrong homer i didn`t say why my pads warped the racing part was from my previous post about me not having a problem with the drilled/grooved disks so far, i just said my standard ones warped and read in posts it had happend to a few people so i changed to drilled/grooved to try avoid that The warping would have been caused by not letting the discs cool off before resting it (whether for a 30s stop at the traffic lights or by parking up). Drilled discs will help reduce the chance of this *very* slightly, but if you're getting them to those temps on a regular basis they will crack in the short term. However, it's a complete misconception they improve braking performance, the opposite is the case for any realistic road use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
w41k3r Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 yeah when i bought the car it had to have the rear disks skimmed to pass though the mot, then a little later they warped again so i just changed them after reading the threads about them warping i thought it was common and maybe the way the metal was i dunno not clued into brake disks really or what causes them to warp but thankyou for helping me understand. As for braking as i said i havn`t had a prob yet i think mostly why people buy them is for the look. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dnk Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Never had a problem with o/e brakes (uk spec) the only time ive found them to be not so good is on a trackday and to be honest that was down to very little material left on the pads and very old brake fluid. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 If your going fast enough to cause oem brakes to fade then you should be on a track as your going way too fast for the road Get your calipoers overhauled with refurb kits then buy oem disks with a known pad compound and you will be fine. The pad choices that are of a known quality have come up time and again so searching will give you an idea on that front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ewen Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 [OOPS][/OOPS] and i cant edit my heading can I? Its quite nice as it is. Although I prefer coriander on my discs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ian W Posted March 22, 2009 Share Posted March 22, 2009 Although I prefer coriander on my discs. I didn't spot that one, good eye as ever Ewen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heather1mee Posted March 22, 2009 Author Share Posted March 22, 2009 cool, lots of good advice!! :D going to check out the prices of Toyota stock ones Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-1JZ Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 i got dba disk on mine:cool: i just ordered DBA 4000 disks allround for my uk spec breaks the 6x6 sloted ones I'd also suggest a brake fluid change if you haven't had that done recently. id also say get a fluid change,maybe get braded lines and better pads aswell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 This is what i have read and understand on the subject. Contrary to popular opinion, drilled disc's are not that way to aid cooling, they are in fact drilled to disperse gas build up that takes place under extreme conditions, IE racing use, The friction temps combined with the two materials actually produce a gas which restricts braking performance. The materials involved are chosen for the specific application, which is why Ferrari, Porsche etc disc's are the price they are. The rest are just average cast material and don't put up with the heat so stress cracks are the norm. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-1JZ Posted March 23, 2009 Share Posted March 23, 2009 heres a wright up i done on brakes for a site a good few years ago that may interest some of you Upgrading a cars braking system Upgrading a cars braking system can range from simple brake pad change - names like Mintex, Ferodo, EBC are good - all the way up to a complete calipers and rotor swap - AP Racing, Red Dot, Brebo, Tarox, KAD, Hi-Spec and AEM along with many others are good. The cost will vary from 100euro to well into four figures. What you should do depends on how your car performs under braking and the types of use it gets. If you never exceed 70mph you'll probably be fine with the factory set up, but if you spend every weekend on the edge, your brakes will need help. But you'll find that out when your OE discs fade and warp and you end up in a heap. The first step of changing to an upgraded 'fast road' pad will probably give you a noticeable benefit, with better friction giving improved braking performance. The slight downsides are generally that the pads can be a bit noisier, and probably wont last as long as the OE equipment. (Wear really depends on the amount and type of use they get) Don't fall into the trap of fitting race pads on a road car because these are made from a very hard compound and designed to work under repeated hard application, so they only work effectively when hot. Use these on a slip road after a few miles being cooled by the air and you'll wonder what's happened to your brakes. Use competition/race pads if you're at a track day by all means but put the road pads in for the drive home. Race pads are for race use only PERIOD! While were at the simple end of the scale it would be worth thinking bout upgrading your OE rubber brake lines with braided steel ones. The increase in pedal feel is often worth the money straight away. Aeroquip, Goodridge or Black Diamond are all good manufacturers. Brake fluid is another area for improvement, but mainly from changing it regularly so that the effects of heat and vapor-locking don't reduce braking efficiency. Standard brake fluid absorbs moisture over time, which vaporizes and causes air pockets when the brakes get really hot, thereby creating brake fade. DOT4 brake fluid is best for normal use, but DOT 5 or 5.1 is to a higher-spec and mostly used with race set up's. At this stage its also worth mentioning silicon brake fluid. This has the advantage that it dose not absorb moisture thus wont need replacing as often. There's the added bonus that that unlike normal brake fluid it will not damage paint work should it spill/leak. People do use it for racing and swear by it, but most prefer the normal stuff. The next step is to fit performance discs, which normally means they are either going to be drilled or grooved, or both. Changing discs isn't always as straightforward as it may seem. The merits of grooving and drilling discs is often for appearance rather then performance. In most cases, the best brake performance comes from the disc that has the most surface area. That means an undrilled ungrooved disc. Machining lots of grooves onto the disc, or drilling it full of holes cuts down the surface area, meaning that there's less friction material pressing against the disc at any time. When a rotor is full of holes and slots, the pads have to be pressed harder against the disc to achieve the same amount of stopping power as an unmachined one. So why do the grooving and drilling thing in the first place ????? Well, grooves help at deglazing the pad material so it will help optimize performance of the pads. Drilling's purpose is to help cool the disc under heavy stress, but considering that you will have to work a drilled disc harder to achieve the same braking effort as a solid or lightly grooved disc, you can probably see that its going to be hotter to start with. Speaking of heat, another reason for drilling and/or grooving is to help release vapors that can expand and form a barrier between the disc and pad. The principle is that these vapors can escape through the drilled holes or the grooves. So what would be a good idea for a road disc that's suitable for all conditions ? The general chose is a lightly grooved disc with 4 to 6 grooves that help keep the pads it there best condition but not sacrifice surface area or excessive stress to the disc so that it will not crack or warp under repeated heavy use. This is another problem discs can suffer from if the going becomes to heavy. Before we move on to fitting big brake kits (the logical next step), which is fitting bigger rotors (discs) and new calipers. There is an interesting and handy upgrade you might wont to consider. Unless you have a top of the range car from a particular manufacturer, you can often fit the higher performance brakes from a higher spec car made by the same manufacture/company. For example, on Honda Preludes you can fit NSX brakes reasonably easy, giving much improved braking performance. If u take this a step further you can fit NSX brakes to a CRX because Prelude brakes fit the CRX, so as you can see it wouldn't be that big a step to have your CRX wearing NSX brakes, granted finding NSX brakes might be a bit hard but hopefully you can see what I'm getting at.... If you have an import here's another tip. The Toyota Supra TT for instance comes with bigger brakes in Europe then in Jap land so if u buy an import you could source the brakes from a Euro spec supra and fit them to your Jap spec supra and as a added bonus you're still using genuine Toyota bits. This works in reverse too so you could fit WRX STI-spec brakes to your Euro-spec Impreza for example. Options like this are worth considering because 1) there genuine parts and will be easier to find, 2) its generally less expensive then buying a big brake kit. If you do decide to go ALL THE WAY and fit some monster discs and new calipers, there are still a few things you should know/consider before you part with your hard earned. The main one is the suitability of the caliper for year round road use. This covers both material and designing of the caliper as well as the way it will work. If it does not have any dirt seals or is made to be striped down and cleaned after every race meeting it wont last very long with road car service intervals. Another thing you should consider is how the caliper reacts to pedal pressure. If it's a road design you should be able to press the brake slightly and slow gently or stamp on the pedal and stop abruptly and rapidly. Race calipers are often like a switch where they're either on or off, which are not suitable for road use. If you have decided to go for the full set up choose something that that has been designed and manufactures taking in to account regular road use. Company's like AP Racing, Brembo, Tar-OX and a few others race develop brakes for road application. It may sound stupid but check if the discs and calipers will fit under your wheels - not just the diameter, but the width. There are plenty of fat 4 or 6-pot calipers that might cause you problems if your wheel spokes run close to the original caliper. If you do have to move up in wheel size this as you know will bring its own problems like clearance between the tire and bodywork so do your homework and ask people what will and wont fit. After thinking and planning what to do with your front brake set up, you might be wondering about the rear brakes. Well you shouldn't do too much because it will upset the balance the manufacture engineered in to the car at the design stage. A new set of discs and pads should do perfectly without the need to fit an adjustable master cylinder to compensate for an over-braked rear, if you do over brake the rear end you could find yourself doing unexpected 360s just when u need total control over the car. What ever option you decide on its worth it to get a professional to carry out the work. Out of all the things you can do to your car, playing with the brakes leaves you with the smallest margin for error. An incorrectly tightened bolt or missing retaining clip could have disastrous effects. Fitting bigger/better brakes and getting it done correctly will help you be safer which is what most of us are looking for.(not 2 mention brake late into corners) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kim1978 Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Great post Stealth J1Z You guys who go at Nürburgring, what kind of brakes do you use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaireRZ-S Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 don't mind the lads heather. Its hard to crack their shell, especially if your irish and a girl . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TopgunTT Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 heres a wright up i done on brakes for a site a good few years ago that may interest some of you Good write up there fella. I have never had a problem with my Mega Monster brake set up , However i never do track days or have never had to test them to there full capabilitys, Just got mine for show really Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heather1mee Posted September 9, 2009 Author Share Posted September 9, 2009 heres a wright up i done on brakes for a site a good few years ago that may interest some of you Great reading!!! thanks!!!! Thanks Claire!! I'll ignore them!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stealth-1JZ Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 glad i could help. im runing a full uk set up with DBA 6x6 disks and endless pads on the road and odd track day.find them very good in all conditions. i also only use DOT4 but change it before and after each trip to the track or when it goes a brown/red color. realy need to look at geting the fronts rebuilt tho as its been on a long finger a while Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gaz6002 Posted September 9, 2009 Share Posted September 9, 2009 Great post Stealth J1Z You guys who go at Nürburgring, what kind of brakes do you use? UKs with Endless CCX here, never had fade. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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