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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

guess my bhp


GlennMR2

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over a year ago i RR my Jap spec, it was standard apart from a different back box, it come out at 323 bhp and about 0.6 bar max.

 

I know there are a lot of differences between the UK and Jap but they're basically the same.

 

If you do a search you'll see many "heated discussions" on this subject - quite amusing really.

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328 bhp :)

 

I dyno'd my car standard apart from a k&n and super dragger zorst and it made 288 bhp. 'Bit low' I hear you say? Well everyone else who turned up on the day got results approx 40-50bhp lower than they expected and what they had been dyno'd before on the same state of tune. We put this down to incorrectly calibrated rollers. So in reality i got 330bhp with just a cat back zorst and a peak of 0.85 bar :)

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Here's something I could get into. I've heard the same discussions about HP figures, but I'm more interested in the post about downpipe/2nd cat replacement. Did you say it sent you automatically to 1 bar? Any issues with runaway boost? I've heard about this but don't quite understand it. I only ask because I'm pondering it as a future mod as soon as I get the flashy lights figured out (check eng at high speed and damn O/D OFF lights). Thanks for the good dope ahead of time. Cheers.

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Here's something I could get into. I've heard the same discussions about HP figures, but I'm more interested in the post about downpipe/2nd cat replacement. Did you say it sent you automatically to 1 bar? Any issues with runaway boost? I've heard about this but don't quite understand it. I only ask because I'm pondering it as a future mod as soon as I get the flashy lights figured out (check eng at high speed and damn O/D OFF lights). Thanks for the good dope ahead of time. Cheers.

 

If your car is BPU with you will already be running higher boost. Either with a boost controller or by removing one or both of the cats. Boost creep is minimal, but the pressure generated will obviously vary with the ambient temperature due to the relative density of air.

 

If you have a boost controller fitted this will not be a problem as it controls the pressure to a set value by opening/closing the wastegate.

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Key point, I said I like my Supra better than my Skyline, I never said it was faster so keep the panties on. It was fun, I just like the supra better. Ok, so correction to my last post. The car is a 93 TT auto RHD Jspec. I'ts not BPU, just a couple of bolt ons. I inherited the car via marriage and am trying to learn more about it. It came from the last owner with 18's, springs (type unknown as of yet), HKS intake piping + filter (which I feel is in need of replacement), HKS BOV, HKS Super Dragger, and a mild system inside. I assumed incorrectly this was basic. I need to figure out what to do next. The car is a fair-weather driver + fun on the German backroads and Autoban once I get the new speedo(which I'm looking for) and SLD (which I'm also looking for) plus get these lights sorted. The "O/D OFF" light is always flashing when O/D is engaged. I'm assuming again from a lack of knowledge the car is trying to tell me something. Additionally, when the car is driven hard, i.e. a boot-full on the autoban or to speeds over let's say... 140 clicks, it gives me the check engine light. When the car is turned off, the check engine light goes away and doesn't return until the next moron pulls up next to me and repeat the boot procedure. I think via troubleshooting and using the wire method at the Toyota dealers we found it to be a #24 diagnostics code. The car has not been FCD'd, Delimited, and there's no Boost Controller. Where to start I know. The turbo-timer that was on the car stopped working and won't even light up now. Could be a short or ground issue, but I don't know if I want to chase electrical bugs. May just buy a newer and better one. Sorry for the long post lads, but I love the car and want to take proper care of it. Thanks ahead of time for all the knowledge and lessons learned. Cheers.

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