miko_supra Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 ok really want to resolve this issue now. i get that dreaded wheel hop when the rear wheels loose traction, which quite a few people have reported having issues with too. (edit:videos on 3rd post) i never suffered from this untill i put the new tt engine in. it cant be the extra power as it even occurs under light power, where as i could floor it in the n/a and have no issues what so ever (just traction or wheel spin.) i have added the additional rear diff bush that the tt has, but this has achieved nothing. and reading others posts, replacing all of the rear suspension components achieves little towards this problem. now some ideas im considering for when i get my car back from the body shop... 1)looking at the toyota manual it said that before removing the prop shaft, to make reference marks so that it gets assembled in the same bolt holes as before. i didnt do this when changing my engine, so could this be an issue at all? 2)checking my engine mounts to see that they are nice and tight? 3)i had bad wheel spin in the wet the other day in 1st and so when i let of there was a sharp knock from the rear as if something was clonking into place. what is this and could it be affecting this wheel hop. (shock top mount?) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 this is also worrying... http://forums.corvetteforum.com/showthread.php?t=1403559 diffs being destroyed and what not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 this is what its like for those who dont know http://videos.streetfire.net/video/a5c0b580-cc39-4eb6-8e51-982b0186078e.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_NXAhlcf-0M&feature=related http://videos.streetfire.net/video/ada51e06-7c26-4c93-947a-8ffa4e5dc003.htm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lee P Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 I got bad wheel hop in mine and thats what killed my diff, I now have a TRD diff going in with solid diff mounts because this apparently helps. Not got the car together yet so dont know how much of an affect they will have. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simbasupra Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 There is a good chance that it is due to the prop shaft as they are balanced and should go back on the way they came off. Perhaps try rotating the prop and go on roadtest each time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 There is a good chance that it is due to the prop shaft as they are balanced and should go back on the way they came off. Perhaps try rotating the prop and go on roadtest each time. i will try this. thankyou:) does anyone have the torque ratings for this? i couldnt find them in the manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simbasupra Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Here you go mate:thumbs: It's different for 2JZ-GTE and 2JZ-GE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Miko Im not sure of the propshaft adjustment on the Na but usually there are shims available to go under the centre mount bearing, and also you have to make sure the propshaft is perfectly in line with the transmission.. it would be an idea to get a professional propshaft company to align it but I have used a laser aligner before to align a propshaft and it worked a treat. (get the laser line and mark it from the centre of the diff casing to the output shaft on the gearbox..Then mark using a white paint pen or similiar some 'marker points' along the way so that you can align the propshaft centrally. Then check for the correct angle for the propshaft sections. This is where you need to shim the centre mount bearing if shims are available for your car... If theyre not...washers will do You should really take simba supras diagram along to http://www.propshaft.co.uk and they will sort it out. They are excellent and have all the required kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 just seen your from Bucks... you may need to find a good place a bit nearer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simbasupra Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Thought i would give you the whole prop shaft workshop manual. Has installation, adjustment etc.Propeller Shaft.pdf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 I meant to ask. Is wheel hop experienced by any other NA-> TT conversion folks? What motor mounts are you using? if they are not in tip top condition they could be contributing. Also, to try and answer your questions 1/ yes, this could be a BIG issue and probable cause. See my post above and the propshaft pdf 2/ Worth doing. Also check they are in good condition. 3/ Bit of an open question this one!! The power hike from a TT motor will certainly put a lot more stress through your drivetrain and chassis. Therefore you need to check and replace any possible suspect parts... Top mounts should be checked/upgraded I would suggest. Clonk could have been the diff if your propshaft is mis aligned but its just guessing without more info. if you can add a summary of your cars spec it would be handy too mate. eg/ transmission etc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Doom Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 Did you fit a TT diff? Or are you still running the NA one? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 cheers for the info guys!! im running stock n/a 5 speed transmission (lsd) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 I have used a laser aligner before to align a propshaft and it worked a treat. (get the laser line and mark it from the centre of the diff casing to the output shaft on the gearbox..Then mark using a white paint pen or similiar some 'marker points' along the way so that you can align the propshaft centrally. could you explain this to me more please? i think i get what you mean, but not 100% Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 5, 2008 Author Share Posted February 5, 2008 I meant to ask. Is wheel hop experienced by any other NA-> TT conversion folks? might be worth jezz getting in on this thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr_Doom Posted February 5, 2008 Share Posted February 5, 2008 cheers for the info guys!! im running stock n/a 5 speed transmission (lsd) Are the NA lsd diffs the same as the TT?.. I've had teeth strip off two different normal NA diffs in the past and i know a lot of NA owners have had similar problems (Animal for one). I guess they weren't built to handle much power. I'm not sure about the NA lsd diff though? Maybe they are stronger? I've never knew what the term 'wheel hop' meant until i read this thread and watched the videos but i'm pretty sure i experienced it with the two diffs that broke. Pulling off from standing start (especially in the wet) = loud knocking & juddering from the back end. I always thought this was normal & it was the car trying to get traction. I'm now running another standard NA diff which has been stripped and rebuilt & i've not experienced any wheel hopping yet! Maybe it's a sign that your diff is worn or on it's way out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
and1c Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Are the NA lsd diffs the same as the TT?.. I've had teeth strip off two different normal NA diffs in the past and i know a lot of NA owners have had similar problems (Animal for one). I guess they weren't built to handle much power. I'm not sure about the NA lsd diff though? Maybe they are stronger? I've never knew what the term 'wheel hop' meant until i read this thread and watched the videos but i'm pretty sure i experienced it with the two diffs that broke. Pulling off from standing start (especially in the wet) = loud knocking & juddering from the back end. I always thought this was normal & it was the car trying to get traction. I'm now running another standard NA diff which has been stripped and rebuilt & i've not experienced any wheel hopping yet! Maybe it's a sign that your diff is worn or on it's way out? Im pretty sure the Na and TT diffs are different but hopefully someone can chime in and confirm whether its a fact or not Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 6, 2008 Author Share Posted February 6, 2008 Im pretty sure the Na and TT diffs are different but hopefully someone can chime in and confirm whether its a fact or not yeah the diffs are different are there no markins what so ever on the propshaft/diff to indicate the right way to put it on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 6, 2008 Share Posted February 6, 2008 Put the extra diff to rear subframe mount in, from a TT, it will make a BIG difference. Fitting them (as opposed to butchering them in), is a subframe out job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 9, 2008 Author Share Posted February 9, 2008 ok the extra diff bush is in cw. i spent today altering the drive shaft and taking it out after each time with no success, i even properly spaced the center bearing. so i went to check the tyre pressures when one of my valves broke so its now leaking air, so i cant continue diagnosing until i get that sorted! i checked all of the suspension components for play, and they are all in tip top condition for their age. as i was in the boot searching for my locking wheel socket i noticed that the rear strut brace bar had come undone on one side. dont have a clue where the nut had gone. so i refitted that, but havent tested to see any difference yet (dont know if this could affect it.) and whilst i had that out i checked all the top mount bolts for the rear struts (all ok!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jezz Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 might be worth jezz getting in on this thread Hmm, intersting. I've never had another TT convert suffering from wheel hop, manual or auto, and we've done 12 of them. Sean (twijiseri?) was a full BPU 5 speed and even that never suffered. We always fit a new o/s/r diff bush, as you've said, the n/a only has the one side. TBH I cant see an unbalanced prop causing that much of an issue, its good housekeeping to mark them up and install them as they came off, but not concrete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
colsoop Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 What suspension do you have ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 What suspension do you have ? stock bilsteins Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 10, 2008 Share Posted February 10, 2008 If you have a dead or dying damper this can cause wheel hop. You have the correct bush (they are handed) fitted the right way up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miko_supra Posted February 10, 2008 Author Share Posted February 10, 2008 If you have a dead or dying damper this can cause wheel hop. You have the correct bush (they are handed) fitted the right way up? handed? do you have a pic or diagramme to show me? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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