Paul Whiffin

Carbon only

Yep, in stock if needed.

Its ready to go, just need to find a dyno that can take it, preferebly not to far away!

You know it make sense.

Goody gumdrops, hopefully they are ok now then.

They do seem to work ok but they dont seem to last, not from what I've seen anyway, unless things have changed now. How long did it take though, wasn't it a few months or something?

AET Turbos have the same problem, they cant buy the parts for them, when they go wrong, I dont know why so many people use them!

Yes that's right. With the NA having a high compression ratio lag isn't really an issue so it's a pretty good setup. And there isn't really much smaller in T4 either, you would need to drop to a T3.

Yes I do, email me at [email protected] and I'll send it to you.

No, all Borg Warner turbos are journal bearing. We use the S366 in Steve Lintons race Supra along with Mike Ward in his Time Attack Supra and I'm using the S383 in my own car at the moment, all good. Let me know if you need a price.

Ok, well keep an eye out in my section as they will be in there when released. Thats if you need one of course.

I will have my own 4" HKS Ti style available in stainless steel at a nice price soon, if you can wait a bit Rob? Titanium coming very soon to.

I will have new non-genuine crank pulleys available very soon, made to the same quality as the standard Toyota items. We've been running them on a few cars now without issues, more info to come soon. I have genuine pulleys in stock if needed though.

£4.80 Inc vat, loads in stock and cheaper than buying from Toyota.

I have sump plugs in stock if needed Scott. I can send it with the new stud I need to send you if you like?

I would highly recommend the Bullseye Power S362 Batmowheel billet turbo. This will make 650bhp easily.

Bullseye Power/Borg Warner turbos, superb build quality and if they go wrong very easy to get parts. Havent had any failures at all yet though.

Oh and we've been using Carbonetic clutches in our own cars for years. Steve Lintons race car has had his for about 3 years worth of constant abuse, Time Attacking, Racing and a bit of drag racing to, zero problems. I've had one in my own car for about the same time and again years of Time Attack and track use and only until recently have had problems similar to what Mark is experiencing which has turned out to be the clutch master cylinder, nothing to do with the clutch itself. And we also used one in our Time Attack RX7, again zero problems. I had an RPS carbon carbon a few years back and that literally fell apart, since then I've never looked back. These are in my mind the best clutches available.

It can also be hydraulic issues.

I think this thread is being a bit unfair towards the Carbonetic Clutch. Scoobyslayer's issues were obviously nothing to do with the clutch itself. Mark's clutch problems has yet to be solved. I had a similar problem on my own car but fitting a new clutch master cylinder has fixed that one which I have suggested to Mark. Carbonetic Europes reply on this subject is as follows: "We do not class the clutch as a full carbon clutch, the friction material used is called carbon/carbon, all other manufactures use a different type of carbon to us, and theirs is pan type fibre. Looks similar to CFRP, its fine as a friction material but it requires heat in order to achieve maximum performance, its life span is not as long either and it cannot withstand higher temperatures. The images on those forums, those clutches have been slipped beyond belief, for them to turn blue it means a massive amount of heat has been transferred through the clutch. The reason I would say they are “sticking” is because the metal plates are warped way beyond any tolerable level. These clutches are not meant to be slipped, we have always advised them never to be slipped and the best way to use our triple plate for drag racing is to side step or drop the clutch, if you sit there slipping it for a prolonged period of time you are going to warp it. If those images are of your customers car that explains why the clutch isn’t working correctly! That clutch needs rebuilding, bedding in again and then if they are going to use it for drag racing, they cannot slip the clutch they will have to use another launch technique. Engagement problems, are nearly always down to warped pressure plates and intermediate plates. If those pictures are of his clutch, then they are warped. They are warped from drag racing or hard launches when the clutch is to new or excessive slipping of the clutch even after its been bedded in. The customer should know from the instructions that he cannot slip the clutch for prolonged periods, 3 seconds max we recommend. There are only two ways the clutch warps, from either bad installation (we know this isn’t the case) or from abuse to the clutch by not giving it a long enough bed in or its just been slipped. The clutch won’t warp by itself, it needs a little help from the user. "

Looks good to me yes. S362 Batmowheel will make 650bhp yes, I would go with that for definate.

There's no point in having a turbo that will be to laggy when you can have a smaller one and still achieve your power goals. If your going for 600bhp the S362 turbo is the one for you, S362 Batmowheel is an even better choice, that gives the power of the S366 but the spool of the S362, best of both worlds, just costs about £250 extra approx. Ta

Sounds good to me although you may want to go for the S362 if your only going for 600bhp, the S366 will go to 750bhp quite easily so it may be overkill.

Walbro will be ok for 600bhp yes, we run plenty of cars with them.