stevie_b

Probably not much help but.... I've never seen the HKS SLD but I've fitted the Thor one myself. I can't imagine they're that different. What code is logged? I bet it's code 42. If so, that would mean that in the process of fitting the SLD you've interrupted the speed signal that goes from the speed sensor, via the speedo dial and odometer (and possibly other goodies) to the ECU in the passenger footwell. Someone else may be along shortly who knows the HKS better than me...

Tricky to measure directly. You can't access the signal wire without removing some flex.

I've read the following message on the packaging of a vibrator: "Do not use on any unexplained calf pain". What's that all about??? Out of all the possible ways to misuse a vibrator, surely on the calf is one of the tamest??? And what difference does "unexplained" make? - "oh, I can't use my vibe on my calf because I've got an unexplained pain". - "phew, I've just been to the doctors and he explained why my calf is hurting. I can buzz away now on my lower leg!" Yours confused, Steve

I recently fitted a second-hand horn (the upper one that sits just to the left of the bonnet catch). Do they often have bad earths? The horn was working up to about a month ago, but doesn't any more. I've checked the signal to it, and the loom side of the connection sees 12.75v when I press the horn button. Either: 1) the +ve signal insn't getting to the horn unit itself: unlikely because the connector seems to be in good nick and not rusty. 2) the horn isn't getting a good earth via the metal strap. Posible, but I've tried running another (somewhat heath-robinson)earth, and the horn still didn't work. 3) the horn unit itself has given up. Possible I suppose. I guess I need to test it by connecting it directly across the battery.

Thanks for the advice Supe . It turns out I was just being limp-wristed with the knob by not pulling it up enough. I removed the lower section of the rear seats, and gave the knob a good pull. Down flopped the seat. I'll note your comments if I ever need to do that though.

When I pull the knob up to fold the top of the seats down, they won't budge. They never have as long as I've had the car. Any ideas as to how I can free it up? I guess I need to expose the cable (or whatever's on the other end of the knob) to find out why it's not doing its job. From searches I've done on here, it sounds like you need to fold the rear seats down to remove them completely, so that's not an option for me (i.e. can't remove them for better access to the cable mechanism). Thanks for any advice you can give.

I think that might be my problem too. I just haven't had a chance to take the engine cover etc off yet. How expensive is it to fix?

You have chosen wisely! Seriously, they're pretty easy to live with. Not the most frugal of cars, but not the most thirsty by a long shot. Really solidly built, very reliable (even with high mielage) assuming basic maintenance is taken care of. I'd have another, and I'm a tight git!

Pale blue-ish, non-standard colour. I nodded at you: felt a bit weird introducing myself, so I didn't.

:D

Welcome to the club! It's a bit of a general question really. Best to do some searches on here. There aren't any common faults that really stand out, just test drive a few, make sure all the gadgets work (including aircon), and the rest of the stuff that applies to buying any car. Let us know how you get on, and post pictures up when you get one! PS which shape celica did you have? I've always liked the ones with 4 separate headlights (ie ST205 shape).

Light steering at high speed is not good (IMO). At 70mph, you only had to look at my steering wheel and it would turn (before I got the Progressive Power Steering sorted out). When you're doing those sorts of speeds, it practically eliminates any feedback you get from the wheel. Surely it's the other way round: if it was light, you'd need to hang on tightly so that every piece of grit you run over wouldn't knock the wheels out of line. Heavy steering is more resistant to being knocked out of line.

As Branners said, how do they compare *at low speeds*, i.e. below 10mph? If his car is light at high speeds ( > 50mph) then chances are his speedo conversion is not the best.

Old thread revival: rpslaughter1982, were those photos taken with the engine tray removed from the car? I'm losing oil from somewhere and I'm trawling old threads trying to trace the source of the leak. Did you get your leak fixed?

I get around 26mpg for my NA manual, with careful driving and only occasional gunning it.

Brilliant news!!!

I think that's correct. Not sure who does it though.

Ditto, if I was closer I would.

Any dash panels still available? And was the car a manual or auto (manual I'm guessing from the parts list)?

I don't think it works that way. If I pulled out in front (right in front, giving them only a few metres of reaction distance, nowhere near enough) of someone who was doing say 60mph on an A-road, then it wouldn't be their fault even though they'd have hit me. If I'm wrong, if I was a litigious sort of chap there's nothing to stop me doing that next time I fancy a new car.

Welcome!

35% chav. "Ever eaten a pot noodle?" - surely everyone has at some point. I certainly don't make a habit of it! I was a student once too!

Right, I'll just replace the connectors. Is copper grease the correct stuff to use to prevent rust forming on the new connectors? I've never used it before. I've always used vaseline but that seems to disperse over time.

My NA is tends to lose some oil when going for a spirited drive. The road tests I've done are inconclusive, but I'm beginning to suspect the crankshaft (?) oil seal. This is recent behaviour, and before this it hardly used any at all. Top-ups between servicing were rarely needed, if at all. You should check it at least once a week, then you'll know whether it's a gradual loss or you lose a lot in one go. Gradual loss will point to oil weeping from somewhere. A "single hit" loss may point to something like the crankshaft oil seal.

Sounds kinky.