Keith C

Ditto - had it cutting in even in 4th. Phil, not forgotten, just massively hampered by the discovery that my laptop doesn't have a serial port, so need to borrow another.

Have exactly the same problem myself, but keep forgetting to ask. Maybe it's a fuse?

Sounds exactly like mine John - although the transition takes less than a second, it's quite a drop.

Also did a bit of experimentation today: To reach .75 bar (max off no.1) took from 3000rpm: 1.2secs from 2500rpm: 1.8secs from 2000rpm: 3.9secs To reach .5bar on no.1 took from 3000rpm: 0.6secs from 2500rpm: 0.8secs from 2000rpm: 1.5secs from 1500rpm: 3.8secs All tests were done in 6th gear, with a fully closed throttle, starting at -0.8bar. Timing was started the moment the throttle was touched. Car is a full decat UK with bleed valve running Esso SUL.

That torque curve looks *exactly* like mine - yet I have 550's, so how can I be under fuelling?

Contradicting Stu a bit (amusing, as we're talking about the same car) but I find I get a decent pull from 2500rpm or so, 3000rpm is pulling well (certainly all I need on wet roads), the usual drop, then a violent surge starting at 4000. Having a bit of a play this morning, I reckon it's probably more to do with the difference between single and twin behaviour on the two types. J-specs make their torque earlier (as we all know), but when a J goes twin it's less of a difference whereas a UK starts lower at the change, but goes higher, making for a more pronounced kick. Does that make sense?

Cheers Chris - as I said when we spoke earlier, I have no doubt I'll be paying you a trip soon enough...

Ugh - is this rattling noise really noticable when you stop the engine? If so - how difficult is it to replace, how much would it cost, and as someone who is only intending hybrids and does very little drag racing is a stock item a better bet than an uprated one? Mine's pretty baaaad...

Nah, the cats are long gone - one is usefully propping up a shelf in the garage Barry - I've heard stories about it doing blahblahblah to turbo cars, ie the Scoob guys with their Link ECU's report increased knock on Optimax over SUL, a couple of the 200 guys have mentioned that their EGT's were higher, a couple of people I know have trashed plugs. Basically, just enough for me not to want to take a chance on my own engine - I can just about afford to keep it fed at the moment, let alone repair! If I should only use 1.2bar, that's all I'll use, no problem. I don't use full boost all the time, and indeed usually keep no.2 for when something worthy wants a race :flame Dev

Doubt it - I mean, it would be such a small offence...

Easy one this - what's the max recommended safe boost for a UK with stock turbos and IC, running normal Esso SUL. I don't trust Optimax, and I can't be bothered faffing around with octane boosters. I have been told 1.3bar is perfectly safe, but want to check. In addition, is there anything I need to do to the timing to take into account the extra boost?

For the 12 seconds or so to do their 1/4 mile runs. I personally listen to and pay attention to pretty much anything Chris posts, and try to bear it in mind.

Bastids, the lot of ya

I know! Honestly, from the way she behaved you'd think there was some legal restriction on how fast you can go...

No, I was racing a new M3 down the M20, and this dozy bint pulled out in front of us, which resulted in the pair of us standing on our brakes as we desperately tried to shed speed down to the 0.00000001mph she was doing in the outside lane.

What's a speed limit? I dunno what it is - if, for example, I'm doing a lap of the Bluewater circuit, the pedal feel changes (gets soggier) after the 3rd roundabout. Having said that, someone suggested that I could have cooked the fluid when I had to do an emergency stop at 175 leptons, so I'm going to get some more from Chris W.

I must be a complete braking loon then, as not only have I managed to warp a set of UK discs and cook a set of Porterfield pads, but I also reckon that UK brakes with CW pads, 5.1 fluid and braided hoses isn't really enough...

Are you sure the Eibach/Bilsteins is stock ride height, as mine seems lower...

I thought the MAF sensor measured how much air went through, irrelevant of what pressure it was at or anything - ie, more dense air=cooler air=more power needed to keep the wire at the same temp As for the IC design, it's from a company that make race-spec IC's for assorted racing teams, apparently to an equivalent spec as Radtech ones. It'll also be custom made to fit in the sidepod, ie it's not a 200SX design, just from someone who supplies SX IC's. Interesting, my ins co said they would cover a Pace jobbie, but not a HKS one - ie not one of the more 'common' makes. Also, I want to keep my active spoiler, which rules out a large FMIC. My intention is to keep the car looking as standard as possible while making it lots faster As for boost, isn't the 25+psi range only for US drag racers who want to blow up their engines! I'd like about 1.2bar or so, held throughout the range, properly fuelled, well cooled, to make a nice wodge of reliable torque.

Started a new thread cos Adam's thread is for a J-spec. I've got a UK TT6 with just an exhaust and bleed valve, although I've got a s/h boost controller coming in the next couple of months. Now my intercooler is starting to show its age a little, so I've been toying with the idea of replacing it. Unfortunately, my ins co won't entertain the idea of covering me with a nice big HKS jobbie. Now I've got a contact that can make me a race-spec cooler of the same size as the stock item, to replace the stock jobbie, for about £350 or so. He supplies the 200SX guys with their coolers, and speaking to quite a few people in the 200SX club who should know, are extremely capable items, about twice as good as standard for the same size. Best thing is that the ins co will cover the IC for no increase in premium! However, I'm also planning hybrids in the future - what I'm wondering is, will an even twice as efficient stock-size cooler be able to cope with hybrids? Also, what else would I need for hybrids? As I understand it, having UK-spec fuelling means I shouldn't have to replace any of the fuel system, but is there anything else I have to do to get the fuelling right? The thing I like most is dollops of mid-range torque, but I also want to to pull hard up to the redline, unlike the current setup which drops off sharply above 5000 (although that's largely down to the boost dropping due to it only being a bleed valve). I want to keep at least some of the very low torque, which means keeping the sequentials, but I'm happy to trade some lag for mid-range. Basically, I just want to discuss the best way to go about things with people who know. Cheers

Plus isn't it that a CF shaft is lighter and twists less for a certain amount of torque, thereby reducing transmission losses on two counts.

Yup - mine sailed through a couple of weeks ago with only no.2 cat in.

Agree with that - when I stuck my no.2 cat back in, even on the very short drive to the MoT station it felt like someone had removed my turbos, ugh ugh ugh.

Cobblers - my first UK spec had a Blitz SUS filter.

Rip out the fuse, and fit something proper like RLTC.