Dave222

Should be there all being well 1. Steady_dave 2. Dave222

Conversion to what ?

I'll try and make one in, is the entrance on the top level or ground floor, give us a clue as to which carpark. And please confirm times. Cheers Dave

Bit late but same to you Karl and a happy new year, see you at Squires on the 6th ?? Dave.

I am thinking of upgrading my front brakes using the 356mm 8 pot K-Sport kit. I am running Ultralite Nurburg 18 X 8.5 inch rims with I think 35mm offset. Does anyone have that setup running, that is will these discs / callipers fit with these wheels.? Plus any advice on if I should upgrade my rears to match, already fitted with UK spec setup ? Cheers Dave.

I'll be there about 7 ish Dave.

Has anyone got any comments on the quality / effectiveness of this manufacturers equipment based on ownership of the kit ?

I would be interested especially if you can leave the rear seats in situ.

I have a black one off my 93 j-spec

Do you have to remove the rear seats ?

Bump

Don't know about a standard pump but the uprated Walbro pumps run at approx 6 amp.

bump

Wanted as above so I can fit the oil cooler I already have.

Not fully up on this system but there is a seperate management unit for the 9 / 12volt fuel pump supply, I would work back from the pump wiring looking for the power supply. If you're getting volts at the plug on top of tank connection it must be the pump, if there's no power there go back to the control unit behind the passenger side boot space lining, near the boot light. Hope this helps, good luck.

Thinking of fitting a cage but would like to keep rear seats in, can anyone help with a manufacturer ?

Yes they should be fine on a 10 inch rim.

Bump...

Thanks for the comments guys but, this issue seems to be getting worse, that is the fluid temp is up to 100 and rising after only a couple of miles journey and then waiting at a couple of sets of traffic lights, surely at some point the viscious fan should get this rise under control and start to bring it down as at idle the heat input into the coolant must be far less than when under power. I have tried revving car with rad cap removed and even after the stat is open there seems to be very little flow evident in the rad, I would have thought you would get a serious flow with the engine at 2500-3000 rpm?. Any comments

I am having overheating problems that seem to be getting worse by the day. I have changed the stat tonight and the symptoms are the same, the car is fited with a Greddy water temp gauge with the sensor fitted in the top radiator hose. The problem is this, when driving at speed the temp seems OK around 90 but as soon as I slow down or stop the temp creeps up and just keeps going untill you start moving at speed and then it now takes ages for the temp to come down a few degrees, I have not let it get above 110 on the gauge but I am sure it would just keep going. The car is fitted with a fluidyne rad with new cap, new stat and I don't think its air locked. I have run the car on idle with the rad cap off and there doesn't seem to be any flow (that I can see) in the top of the rad My questions are could it be the water pump not pumping ? is there any way of testing it. Any help much appreciated Cheers Dave

3800 rpm high stall for sale, covered about 5000miles, removed prior to sale of car. £300, collection preferred. MAKE ME AN OFFER !!!!

Still for sale !!

yes my agency is based in sunny yorkshire!!

Its not brand new but is as good as, sorry about the quality of the advert I will contact Sachi & Sachi tomorrow. Cheers

Bump....