Dave222

Jake I could be I'm getting a bit out of my depth now, I have rebuilt this engine before when I fitted the new 264 cams, new belt & titan crank pulley as part of my single conversion and the car ran fine except for white smoke/steam continuously coming fom the exhaust. I diagnosed this as the head gasket as the oil filler cap & the inlet valve cam cover was covered in white sludge. Stripped engine again, fitted new HKS metal gasket & ARP bolts and the rebuilt it again. When rebuilt it started first time but now runs really rough and won't rev properly, any ideas ?? All I could think was that I had got the valve timing out ?

Help Engine was running fine other than steaming due to a blown head gasket, renewed this an now it won't rev and runs really lumpy, could this be the timing setup. Can anyone say what they would expect the ingnition timing to be at tick over speed ? according to my AEM mine is around 24 degrees ?? Cheers Dave.

Sorry to be a stupid but what does MLS stand for?

Help required, can anyone post the head bolt tightening sequence? Any help much appreciated. Cheers Dave.

cheers Rob

What has happened to this website / trader anyone got any info ??

Cheers

I have my new AEM ECU and its ready to fit the only job I need to do prior to powering up and testing is connect in the 0-5v output from my AEM UEGO AFR gauge (White wire). However there appears to be two Lambda inputs to the original ECU one on pin 47B(red/blue wire I think) and one on 48B (white wire). Can anyone advise which one to use and more importantly am I on the right track ? Cheers Dave.

Does anyone know which pin / wire on the ECU loom to connect the white analogue 0-5v output from the gauge. Cheers Dave PS. I am about to change the standard ECU for an AEM unit.

Anybody know a good place to get some of this for my tubular manifold ? Cheers

So who's going then ?

Sorry to hijack this thread but wouldn't it be easier just to remove the Trac butterfly valve blade an leave all the electrics connected, hence no flashing lights on dash ? I don't know the answer its just a thought........ comments.

Easiest way I think is to remove inner arch plastic and then its a dodle of a job on both sides of car.

Rob I have just fitted new Titan Motorsport crank pulley the set on e-bay is only as you say for the auxilliaries

Has anyone used this outfit and what do you think about the pulley sets on offer, to be potentially fitted to my single conversion project. http://stores.ebay.co.uk/2fast2cool2

Thanks for the information guys, got the hanger fitted OK (yes its a CNC machined hanger, lovely job) with the surge tank in situ. Cheers Dave.

Can anyone help with how to remove the plastic "box in the petrol tank as when I try to fit the multiple fuel hanger in it will not fit into this box thing. Cheers Dave PS what is the drawback of removing this device?

having just done the answer is as stated above, the cam pulleys do not need to come off but unless you somehow cut the lower cover in half you need to take the crank pulley off to remove that cover and hence get to the belt. Bit of a poor design in my opinion as a split cover would save a load of knob ache.

Martin Surely the best thing to do is spend a little having the actual problem diagnosed, then fix that rather than changing everthing.

bump

Anyone have a picture of the connections on the fuel tank with the various pipes identified. Cheers

Thanks very much, thats one of my jobs for the weekend sorted.

does anyone have a wiring diagram for installing an injector resistor pack to a jspec car ? thanks Cheers Dave

Any tips on how to get this off, I've got all the bolts out but am struggling to get it off without breaking the joint directly onto the cylinder head. Cheers Dave.

Cheers