lightwave

It's cool dude, I take it all as 'constructive criticism'. tbh, here's my reasoning; The high capacity D: is only there to store stuff on - music and video, that's all. The C: which has the OS, swap file and apps needs to be as fast as hell, cos the hard drive (in my experience) is by far the slowest link in the chain, and getting the fastest one you can helps loads. So... I figured going for a low capacity fast C: and a high capacity D: which only needs to be accessed at the bandwidth of the streamed media (which goes to RAM anyway) but then it's only the access times that make the difference really. Having seen people buy cheap big hard drives for their C: for years, I've always found a hard drive with fast large cache and quick access times for the C: does make a huge difference, yes. If I could afford to, I would copy my mates set up and just have all Raptors. But I can't. Thanks for your help with the mobo btw.

Nice

Well, the reason for two drives was that I need collosal capacity hence the 250, but I want a Raptor for the OS drive, and it doesn't even need to be as big as 36GB, but that'll do. If I had the 250 as a single drive (or had 2 250s) and partitioned it, then it'd be quite a bit slower. I really need this Raptor C:. I am considering a motherboard to go with this lot, yeah but I'm just making my mind up. Having had a fair few, I still beleive you get stability in what you pay for and Gigabyte are unmatched for being rock solid. Although they're not the fastest mobo's, speed of the system will come down to other I/O and the hard drives more than the motherboard. Hence that Raptor. Any mobo suggestions then?

I'm just reading this while speccing up my in-car PC system. I'm trying to keep the price down (sorta) but going for an Intel platform (let's not start an argument about AMD/Intel... I won't be convinced) and just some Wi/Fi and stuff... here's what I've got so far: Intel P4E 2.8 800FSB 1MB cache 1GB Corsair RAM 36GB WD Raptor SATA C: 250GB WD Caviar SATA D: nVidia FX5600XT (cos it works with Windows XPMCE) Some Creative sound card Some Wi-Fi card Is there anything I'm missing here, or does anyone have any suggestions that don't involve water-cooling in my car or moving to AMD? ...SATA is the way to go. A friend has 2 75GB Raptors, and boy are they FAST! These and Corsair dual-DDR sees Windows boot from cold in about 20-30 seconds. Crazy!

Is this the same thing as what I'm asking about in this thread? Paul E - does your £95 jobbie come with the required "mounting bits"? And will it do the job I'm after? Cheers!

Hells yeah! But I could always get the carbon tailgate when I get my carbon bonnet - I think that'll help.

Don't worry y'all - I've answered my own question: Spare Wheel Motorists assume that the spare wheel is part of the MOT when it isn’t. VOSA cover this by their statement in the Manual which says “Note: The condition of the spare wheel is not included in the inspection. However, if a defect is seen, inform the vehicle presenter.”

"...can't use"?

Just wondering about removing the spare wheel for an ICE install or whatever reason... how legal is this? I may have just made this up, but I thought that if you carry a spare wheel that it has to be fit for purpose. If it ISN'T fit for purpose (damaged, or flat tyre etc) then it was illegal. But I thought if you don't carry one at all then that's ok. How much crap have I just made up? Is it just plain illegal to not have a spare wheel? If so - what do you guys do come MOT time? Chuck it on the back seat? I think it has to be securely fastened too, doesn't it?

I really like the Defi technology, and the colour goes with the dash of course. I was wondering about this, because I need a few gauges (not for the look - cos I NEED them) and still can't decide between Defi or the HKS ones with the blue and pink that look gorgeous. The only thing is that HKS don't make many gauges in those nice illuminated colours I don't think

Dumb question time... what's an EGT gauge?

Does anyone know how much RLTC costs to but AND have installed? I presume it's not the kind of thing you can easily install yourself... is it? Maybe it just involves wiring a control unit into the ECU. I dunno. Anyone?

Yes please! Writeups and pictures always welcome. I don't know what you're going on about, but when you post the pics I'll see.

I don't doubt CW is right, but out of interest, what alarm have you got?

When you say "no problems" should we imply that's because you didn't get pulled for not being taxed? Had anyone here ever had a tax 'issue' with the Police? I can't imagine it. Also, regarding short term insurance - I think as a member of the Generanl Insurance Standards Council (or whatever it's called) there is something like 16 days after you pay for you to get a FULL refund. But it's probably worth checking out. When you insure over the phone they play you a recorded message that lasts about 3 or 4 minutes - it explains it in that. I think £10 for 10 days is much better though!

Sounds cool, thanks. Which date were you at Castle Coombe? My team leader at work is a marshall there and I know he was there yesterday cos he broke down on the way home and isn't in work today!

Yes. Thanks! I have some LEDs I'm going to wire up to beam down onto my central dash area - I now know to wire them up in parallel.

Thanks. I didn't give it a charge, the place I got it from stuck it straight in for me. I might give it a full charge tonight. Good thinking Batman! I can't imagine the alarm would be draining that much either. I don't have anything else wired into the car (yet). The alternator must be ok I think, because a drive will charge it up enough to start without an issue. Maybe there's a problem with the... 'regulator'. Thing. Could it be anything else?

Sweet!

Hi all, I think I might have an electrical problem somewhere... maybe someone recognises this... I got the car a month ago now and not long after I got it I noticed that if I didn't drive it once or twice a day the battery lost power and it was getting harder to start. It got to the point where it would hold charge for about 24 hours and then need a jump start. Then it was 12 hours before needing a jump. So if I didn't drive it to charge it up a bit it would die on me. Anyway, I went and got a new heavy duty Bosch battery which was obviously much better. However I didn't use my car this weekend except for 2 trips half a mile up the road to see my Mother. This morning... it wasn't its usual excited self. It was slower turning over. If this is the same as before, the thing is that it charges fine for a short while but then loses charge quite quickly when not driven. I don't know what could cause that except a dead cell in the battery. But this one's new. I'm a little apprehensive as I'm going away tomorrow afternoon until Sunday... and I fear it won't start when I get back!

Pukka! Cheers mate.

Wow you're still up! And I'll have you know I store my OVERFLOW brain power in the ponytail thank you! On my car it's an LED fog... I'm sure it's a brake light to people with a caravan fog light. And it's accompanied by a twin turbo badge. It looks glued on, but I'll pry it off good. Don't you worry!

I'm not sure my speedo is displaying the right speed. Ok, I've only had the car a month and I'm not used to it yet perhaps, cos it's a big car and deceptivly quick... but I know that I used to do 85mph on the motorway and overtake loads of cars. Now in my Supra I set cruise at 85mph and get overtaken loads. Also, doing 30mph, learners are getting away infront of me. And I presume they're under instruction to do 29mph or so. So... I'm not sure it's right. BUT, good news - I've got my TRL DSC + TSD! I'm going to be fitting it tomorrow (later today) and I was really wondering (after my prolonged preamble) how the hell to accurately calibrate the speed. How will I know if it's right? I thought I'd get a friend to do a 30mph and 70mph check in another car I trust the speedo on. Maybe that's not accurate enough. I don't have GPS, so any suggestions? Is this a service a garage would offer? Somehow? Thanks. As always.

I do, I do, I do!!! It's below the rear LED brake/fog light and above my Toyota 'T'. I don't personally like it so it's coming off, and we'll see if it's in a reusable condition when I've attacked it. I'll take a picture and post it. It looks hella gei IMO! (Sure you want it Leaky? No charge... when it's off)

I did print this out and take it with me when I bought my Supra. It's very handy. It came from the SupraStore.com FAQ link on i-Supra.com - link as follows: http://i-supra.com/eve/ubb.x?a=tpc&s=154607117&f=9126041111&m=4286053631 In addition to this, I would also check every body panel in the light for dents - along the bottoms of the doors for rust, and all the edges of panels for bubbling on a Supra that age. Also check that paint seems original over all the arches and bumpers. Check the glass is all Toyota and also that all gaps in panels are even. The Supra has two bonnet catches, one on either side. Check they're both latching fine and the bonnet is aligned properly. Make sure it closes ok. Best of luck with that one! I don't think you'll be disappointed. I would spend the rest of your budget on a full service when you get it.