D1andonlyantman

Hi all. Got my car running on this standalone but the DBW is being a nightmare. The TPS works fine but the accelerator doesnt make the throttle adjust. Ive got the clutch on a switched 12v and ground, the motor on 'h bridge 1' as per the ecu manual, but the throttle only moves in the last 10% of the pedal travel when it becomes manual. Then it will rev and i see the throttle position change on the software. Other than that the throttle position is stuck at 3.5%. Ive checked my wiring 10 times, the TB has 5v on a pin, so i have no idea why it isnt working. The characteristics table has a linear 0 to 100 setup which looks logical, and as this throttle body is one of the presets i imagine most of the settings would be right anyway. If i set the ecu to show dbw fault on the eml is does light up, so it knows something isnt right. Has anyone got any ideas before i get a dbw delete? Seems a shame but im all out of ideas. Thanks

Hi all. Ive spoken to a company who make hoses as i needed a damper bypass, and managed to haggle a good deal on these hoses based on me trying to sell some. I fitted mine today and its spot on. Wire wrung, high flow AN6 connectors with an adapter on each end for the fuel filter and rail fittings. £55 delivered is much cheaper than any ive seen, and theyre good quality branded fittings. They will be delivered to you direct from the company in question, not bodged together by me haha Thanks

Cheers mate I almost couldn't believe it actually started. Im no electrician or anything like that. Gotta try haven't you. I'm not out of the woods yet but im certainly heading in the right direction. Yeah i like the wheel. I picked it off their site with no prices and when i found a seller it happened to be one of their cheaper wheels. Winner winner haha

Unbelievable, Jeff! 2 weeks of endless research for hours literally every evening, and a week of making the adapter and fixing little issues/mistakes has got me here. My handy-work First start attempt Still sensors, boost controller, lots more im sure to wire in, mapping, but she lives.

Nah its cool. NO-ONE does vvti pnp. Not that i could find. I got some quotes on fitted standalones and it would have left me sod all to get the single turbo fitted. Plus despite this being a learning curve i do actually enjoy it. As long as i can get there in the end im happy to make the journey. Ive already spent some time learning some of the software, put hours into making that pinout chart and basically learning how it all works. The ecu basically controls the grounds to activate stuff. The 12v will always be connected (via ignition switch and relays etc) but its the grounds the ecu switches to control everything. Even learning something that simple suddenly made everything make so much more sense. If a sensor needs power it will be 5v (and 3 pin), if not and its 2 pin it just needs the analog input the ecu and a sensor ground, and the ecu will read the resistance. Once you learn a few bits it does make sense. With regards to the brand, ive known about this ecu for a while now. The software is intuitive and easy to figure out (with a great 'help' system), the ecu itself has plenty of safety features and general features - built in 4 bar MAP sensor, flex fuel, the lot. I have been speaking to people who use it and they're all for it. Plus its in a price range that sits well for me. That's why

This is the pinout chart ive made. Not finished but most of the stuff is on there i think. Feel free to give any tips or pointers

That's all great info, thanks a lot. Im not making my own loom really, rather making my own pnp adapter i suppose. The EMU black comes with a pinout saying what each pin needs (injector 3, coil 2, iat sensor etc etc) so i looked at the wilbo666 vvti gte pinout and found the relevant pins so i can wire the new ecu to a stock ecu header and use as much of the stock wiring as possible. As there will be lots stock pins left unused i wasn't sure what the knock-on effect of that would be, leaving circuits unpowered or ungrounded, so i thought it would be easier to make some dedicated circuits in places. Which does raise a fair point actually. Ive got the ecu paired up with the injector grounds but which circuit gives them their power? The EFI relay again i guess, so i will need to make sure that circuit is powered? this is the first time ive attempted anything like this so it is a learning curve as you can probably imagine. Thanks

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Hi everyone. I'll try to keep this simple so bear with me. Basically im fitting a ecumasters EMU black to my VVTi TT6. Im making the harness adapter myself and have got most of the pins figured out but im wondering where to get constant 12v for the ecu, and ignition switched 12v for the ecu, fuel pump and VVTi solenoid? There are constant and switched 12v pins on the stock ecu harness connector but im not sure if they're up to powering all the above, specifically the walbro450 which is quite demanding from what i read? Would it be safer to run a constant straight from the battery to the ecu, splicing off of that wire and fitting a relay that is ignition activated? Then i can run the vvti, switched ecu feed and fuel pump off of that relay. The fuel pump ground will be on an aux pin on the ecu so the ecu has control. Any easier options very welcome! Hopefully that makes sense! Thanks

Well I'm going to map on the jspec twins first, see how i get on with the SARD injectors. They've been flow tested and bought from a tuning company so I have faith. I'll look into a full rail when I go single. See what the funds allow. Maybe I'm better off with a 362 then. Full boost by 4k is fine, I know power and lag come hand in hand really

It's got about 70k on the engine unless it's been clocked or something. No way of knowing really. But it feels tight, doesn't use any oil, underside is immaculate. That's all ive got to go on. But I don't plan on using cheap parts. Of course id prefer a full rail but that's another expense in could do without. It is what it is mate. It's been done on a budget before, I'll try to do it again. I'm going standalone, not buying eBay special parts, hopefully it all comes together. I earn a half decent wage, I just can't throw 10k at a build right now

Too rich for my blood, mate. If it had a turbo too then maybe we'd be talking. Cheers

Does it come with a turbo? Looks like it doesn't

Oh ok. I actually did look at the 362 as well a while back as I thought it might be an option. I think I already knew the answer on the manifold tbh. I've heard about boost creep, and it seems like this is very much a "buy cheap, but twice" scenario. I'll probably go with the 6boost, but will look into the Walton, cheers. Never heard of that one. Also nice to hear more positive views on the black. I think it will do just fine. Thanks for the help and opinions so far, gents. It's appreciated

But anti-lag...... haha I joke, I know what you're saying mate. The black can use the OE knock sensors effectively from what I hear, or aftermarket Bosch are easy enough to wire in if need be. Tbh mate I haven't got 2k+ for a syvecs, as great as they're supposed to be. I have spent a lot of time looking into this, and I think the black ticks the boxes for me. In this case I think being cheap would be a piggyback and boost controller, and I think the black is way above that. I need to draw the line somewhere

I think I've got my heart set on the EMU black tbh. I've spoken to quite a few people who use it, and it's meant to be really user friendly plus has a built in 4bar map sensor, built in WO2, antilag, rolling antilag, full boost control (with a 3port fitted), SD, I think I'm sold to be honest. Like I said, I'm not looking to scrimp where I shouldn't. It seems the BW will do what I want reliably. I'll probably get a 6boost mani and unless anyone says otherwise the 50mm turbosmart WG. I've spent days googling and think my fuel system will be fine at this power too. I'll eventually get a big oil cooler etc, but I think I've got a fair game plan for the main bits

Hi everyone. Over the past couple of months I've pulled my finger out and started putting aside a bit of money for a single conversion on my TT6. Budget is very much a factor as my missus has decided that she can wait no longer to have my offspring (God help me), so I've had to keep that in mind, but money will be spent where needed. I got some flow tested SARD 840cc injectors from a relatively trusted source (not eBay haha), will be doing the fuel damper bypass, and i will be getting a EMU Black standalone at the end of the month. So that should hopefully be the fuel and engine management side sorted. I was thinking of buying a GTX3076r or something in that price range of £1500ish, but im told by some of our American cousins (and seen on whifbitz) that a Borg Warner 257sxe can make the power I'm after (600ish), and at around £700 that would be a nice saving and get me that bit closer. My first question is which housing should i go for on the BW (Divided AR 1.0 has been mentioned), and also which mani should I pair it with? The 6boost T4 twin scroll makes sense I guess, but that's certainly not cheap. I had a Japspeed tubular on my evo 9 for years which is far cheaper, but I get the feeling this would be a case of "you get what you pay for" and it wouldn't perform as well as the 6boost with this turbo, in which case I'll fork out for the 6boost. Also I know very little about external wastegates but was told a 50mm turbosmart would be good? Anyone got any advice or opinions on the turbo setup? Anything you think I've missed. And in genuinely the politest way possible, telling me that going single on a budget is a bad idea is not helpful at all unless it's followed by " but I happen to have 10k you can have". This is the situation I'm in Sorry for the essay, and thanks!

Ok mate, this is sounding doable. I'm in no great rush to get it all up and running. I'll buy the ecu and sensors this month and then take my time getting it setup while I get the turbo etc sorted. As long as the info is out there im relatively good at figuring stuff out, but i may have the odd question or 2 if you didn't mind?

Ah ok. Well I don't think I'll be going as far as you did. I've already got an AEM wideband fitted although the EMU black has a controller anyway apparently. I do plan on fitting a dual oil temp and pressure gauge in one of my vent pods. Already got boost fitted. I will fit an IAT though as I plan on going SD. Judging from that you've said I think I'll pay the 150 ish and go pnp. That is included in the price I mentioned, so still quite cheap. With regards to knock sensors, how much of an ordeal was that to sort? I do hear that OEM knock sensors often don't work well with aftermarket ecus? If it's worth doing then I'll do it, but I work on my car out front of my box garage, so I'm not looking to make myself extra work.

Sorry, but which sensors are you referring to? Knock? How complex was it to make your own loom? I'm no idiot but I'm no wiring expert either. I can't help but think going pnp is a good idea for me. I'm running in TTC at the moment so VSV isn't an issue either unless I've got my wires crossed about it's purpose

I think me and you are on the same page then mate. I mapped my evo ix on stock ecu, so have half an idea what I'm doing. The ECUmasters seems to have a really good interface and really good support. There's also a very active Facebook group for it if you didn't know. As I said, I think I'll get the whole kit for around £1100, so most other ecus are considerably more. I think this is the way to go then.

Hi everyone. I'm just wondering which ecus people are running, and also who mapped it themselves? I'm getting the parts together to go single turbo. I've just bought some blitz 850cc side feed injectors, will order a walbro450, and am thinking about getting an EMU black ecu. I'll map it on the stock twins to get familiar with it, and then in a couple of months go single. The EMU black seems great for the money (£1100 ish with a 3port for full boost control and IAT to go SD), but im open to suggestions. Currently BPU TT6 Thanks

That's how I found the one by my bov I just had a go but couldn't find anything else obvious. Maybe the lean afr at idle/low throttle is because 1 of my turbo studs ate it's thread when going decat. Couldn't feel a blow, but you never know. The idle itself is smooth

Oh ok, I didn't know that would work. I did also wonder if it was a closed system. If there's any breathers or anything that would leak the pressure

Hi all. I made a little makeshift pressure tester for the intake, and found my BOV was leaking. I fixed that but was wondering the best way to pressurize the vac system as I hear that's not connected to the intake side? My afr gauge shows very lean at idle. I think this could be because I might have a small exhaust leak, or I hear that a vac leak could cause this as well. Any opinions appreciated Thanks