UltraFlynn

I obviously don't drive the car hard enough but I can never tell whether the RLTC is dong anything or not. I certainly never wheelspin on any of the various settings. What's the easiest way to confirming that RLTC is actually working?

I rather like DOND. It is funny when you get some muppets saying that they have some bizarre strategy It's all about luck. I liked the guy who everyone thought was going to win huge, walk away with £20. Most amusing.

My thoughts exactly. I'm certainly not consider being without a Supra but it's whether to get a newer one.

Thanks for the info merckx, Are those spacers literally just sandwiched in between the hub and the wheel then? They are not "fitted" in any way? I'm certainly going to be getting shot of my 18s and getting the stock 17s back on there. Best case scenario is to find someone who fancies the 18s and wants to swap.

That cool. Thanks for that. I have UK-spec front brakes so I'd have to get the 17s. (Which is convenient because I wouldn't want 16s on there) Anyone have an ideas about the issues with spacers?

Limited company would get you between 55% and 60%. 84% is outstanding.

Of course you do. It pays more and you don't have to worry about bonuses, pay-rises and climbing the management greasy pole.

What are the differences between Jap-spec and UK-spec standard wheels for a '94 TT? Can I put either on my car? On a related topic. .... I keep hearing people talking about "spacers" when fitting aftermarket wheels. What are they? Where do they go? What do they do? And ... if I replace my aftermarket wheels with standard ones will I have to remove any spacers to do this? Thanks in advance.

You can but you don't have to set up a limited company. That's a lot of hassle and not very tax efficient. But lots of people still do it. You have several choices if you don't want to run a limited company but the easiest is just to find an umbrella company (type "umbrella company" into Google and you'll get loads of hits) to work through. They sort everything out for you and predict a "retention ratio" which indicates how much of your hard-earned you get to keep. IR35 is a pain and means that you cannot take dividends out of your limited company. (You'd do this because you don't pay NI on dividends. And remember that you pay NI twice, employees and employers, both add up to 20%) Some contracts are IR35 friendly but that's no guarantee that the Inland Revenue will see it that way. Good places to start looking for info are http://www.pcg.org.uk and http://www.contractoruk.com/

I'm an IT Contractor. Have been for almost 10 years now, working at several investment banks in the City and Docklands. What's the question?

I've heard that using BitTorrent and http://www.piratebay.org/ works rather well.

I've got a mate who swears that they are fabulous cars. His only issue is the total lack of traction in the wet. I suggested he fitted RLTC which would probably sort that out. They're not cheap to run though. His is a K-reg and when it goes into the garage it always seems to spend a wodge of his cash.

Oh, there's no way I'm getting rid of the Supra. That's not in question. The question is whether it gets replaced by a newer one. I think on balance I'm better off with what I've got. At least I know that the brakes and crankshaft pulley are both tip-top. I got a new job today which is why the subject of spending money again has come up. I think I've worn her down a bit so some adjustable boost may be on the cards next .......

It's more about pre-empting the fact that it's getting old. The car is going really well at the moment. Option 5 is not an option because I need two cars ....... oh, and did I mention that I utterly adore Supras. It's a addiction thing.

I only asked because in the heat of the "Single Turbo" discussion she mentioned that I should just go out and buy a newer Supra once her new kitchen has been fitted this summer. I'm not convinced that changing my Supra for one 3 years newer is really going to solve the problem or bits getting old and needing to be replaced.

My wife (bless her) thought that a single turbo would be slower than the twin-turbo because it has have as many turbos. When I mentioned that a single turbo would give 600-700bhp she simply said "No"

- 4 warped disks - one expired crankshaft pulley (£1000 spent in 3 weeks including a service) ...so far. The concern is that next time it'll be something really expensive.

I ran option three past the wife about 15 mins ago and her reaction prompted me to drop it from the option list....

I does sound like a heat shield to be honest with you. I guess I need the one on the exhaust. Are there any more? And what's the easiest way to check them?

Hypothetical question here: - Which is the preferable option: - 1. Sell current Supra and spend twice as much on a newer one (with hopefully less age related issues) 2. Keep current Supra and keep fixing issues as they come along. Any thoughts anyone......

I've got my boost gauge down on the right hand side of the dash. Just above where you put the key in the ignition. It's an awful place. The only way to see what boost you're getting is to look down (and to tilt your head over to the right) and that's not ideal because you should really be looking at the road. My advice is not to put it there.

I can't believe that you havn't sold this yet. It's a fabulous looking car.

Landcruisers are not the most economical of vehicles to run, thats true. It costs £80 to fill the tank up and that does 450 miles. That's only slightly better than the Supra!

Ever since I first got my Supra it's had an annoying rattle. I even noticed on the original test drive and figured it would be something simple to put right. I've had a garage look for it and they couldn't see anything obvious. (It was only a quick check though so I don't blame the garage for not finding it) But now is the time to try and find out exactly what it causing this hugely irritating and embarrassing rattle. What I'd like to do is to describe the symptoms and seek suggestions as to how I can go about checking that item. Hopefully then I can narrow down the issue and get it sorted. (Bare in mind that I'm pretty poor around cars. I have little skills with the spanners ....) Here's the symptoms: - 1. It doesn't do it when cold. Only once the cars been driven for 10 minutes plus does this rattle start. 2. It sounds like a thin bit of metal vibrating against something. 3. It continues to rattle when not moving. 4. (To my ears) it sounds like it's coming from the passenger side of the engine bay. 5. Turning off the air-con, or putting the car in neutral (i.e. changing the engine revs) can make it go away. It gets worse at certain engine rpms but it's definitely something external to the engine. 6. It honestly sounds like something is loose ... but what? All ideas are sought and I'll try to get outside and do some diagnosis as I receive ideas. Please help me get rid of this. It's embarrassing pulling up to some traffic lights in the worlds coolest car and all you (and everyone else) can hear is "rattle, rattle, rattle ...".