Slutters

Wow! Thats great!

Ok mate

Hi mate £40 delivered? Any good?

This, done a few parts that were bent, had to remove the old bushes and fit the pollys in.... and the man speaks sense! Its a nightmare!

We have a winner!

Stock UK Spec pump being replaced with a Walbro 455 UK Spec Vs 455! Tested the rubber anti vibration pad in fuel to make sure it didn’t melt lol New pump fitted Soldered at different heights and heatshrunk 4 times lol And refitted Spare wheel and tool kit refitted Refitted the centre console but as the UK Specs have a label here I changed over the lid… must do it properly if your going to all this effort lol J Spec Changed! And that takes me upto date! Tune in next time for wiring and more interesting stuff! Thanks

Rear gearbox remote fitted and lubed.. Handbrake back on Prop re-fitted and lined up Decided to paint all the heats shields while they were off Those pics look crap Rear subframe bottom mounts Next up made a start on the loom, removed the old FCD as its no longer needed… Then refitted the rear plastics after testing everything… Removed the pump

Injectors test fitted Fitted New Bosh style loom plugs fitted Random shot again lol, fitted my wideband through a spare gromit on the drivers side, just a reference for you guys if anything Clutch hydraulics no exit where the old slave cylinder used to be one for fluid the other for bleeding Also decided to pressure test the rail for leaks! Didn’t want to get it all togther to find a big fuel leak… 6 Bar of air and no hissing! Next welded up a FPR mount and combo EGR blank lol Fitted Also fitted my breather for my ICV Ready to go on a trip! 1st oil feed blank with copper washer 2nd feed with M12x1.25 to AN3 adapter Exhaust ports cleaned And as if by magic!

You can see where the gasses are channelled here More EGT gay’ness removed Cleaned up And made a blanking plate from a nice bit of stainless steel Next up gearbox cleaning! Gearbox off and removed stock clutch…its brand new… typical!! Its for sale along with the stock flywheel! Wooo! Stock gayness Vs my nice aluminium flywheel and twin plate! Couldn’t belive how light the new one is over stock! Random shot.. Fitted, all bolts indexed so I can make sure none of them get lose Hydraulic slave fitted and bellhosuing cleaned of all contaminates I brought a HKS copy fuel rail, only due to the fact I knew it needed to be modified to fix my 1000CC injectors and it seemed a shame to modify an expensive rail I sent it away to be rebored for 14mm injectors, thanks to Dan my glamorous assistant Sensor hole capped and thread sealed

usy bee…. Ripped off all the old NA front suspension… Started moving over the UK stuff Once again its all been pollybushed! Moved over the UK spec anti roll bar, this is 3mm thicker than the NA one, you can just about make this out in the pics Getting there Uk Spec brakes on Right, now that’s most of the boring stuff out of the way, it starts to get more interesting from here on in… First of, just to give an idea of how cold it is in the unit I am working in… Anyway better things! Spec twin plate, with aluminium flywheel! Next up is the engine.. Stock twins Oh…. Looks like there coming off then… Where did they go! I decided to do the EGR delete while I was at it

Sorry i only just remebered the PM you sent when i saw the title lol.. I havn't got the tool to do them i am affraid, luckily the last owner did them for me... Hows the car going?

The quality of the car will be reflected in the price....you get what you pay for...buy cheap you buy twice... etc etc....

You should have undone the prop, put the back of the gearbox on a jack and removed the gearbox mount. Then lowered the gearbox on the jack enough for you to get a 6 sided socket on there. The only thing left you can try is doing that and using oxyacetylene, just don't melt a hole in the gearbox... If the 6 sided socket no longer fits, you can either get something like this: http://www.screwfix.com/p/irwin-5-piece-bolt-grip-nut-remover-set/96028?kpid=96028?cm_mmc=Google-_-Product%20Listing%20Ads-_-Sales%20Tracking-_-sales%20tracking%20url&gclid=CNfq2IqgiLUCFW3MtAodVD0AAw Or use a close fitting 12 sided socket and hammer it on, then warm, then use a long bar, don't hammer the bar.

Yes, i used paint thinners and left it in there for a few hours .... looked lovely when i emptied the contents out...

Pressed in second rear diff mount Cleaned up the diff ready Be careful fitting Soild rear diff mounts guys! Espcially if you have a bit of a drifting crash…. As there are no rubber bushes all the energy is directed straight onto the diff cover… resulting in a cracked cover.. which you can no longer get from Toyota UK! Cleaned internal filter and fitted: And temp sensor and breather Bead of non-silicone based sealer Done! Rear diff fitted to subframe Removed diff cooler pipe work/pump Pump refitted All refitted with fresh pipes and clips Old subframe for the scrap! Now trying to get this in by yourself is fun… Alas got it on!! Next set of updates is rebuilding the front suspension.. Sorry its all a bit mundane at the moment, the fun bits start soon!

Hi guys new updates! Heres where I was at last time, subframe stripped… Cleaned all the old paint and rust off with a wire wheel on an angle grinder.. Then put in etch primer And painted matt black to match OE Right, next up was replacing all the bent arms, I used the arms from the other subframe but removed all the Powerflex bushes from the old arms and refitted to the new arms… New Arms Cleaned and painted Removing the Powerflex bushes Cleaned up top arms Powerflex bushes fitted! Next up, nice new shiny Toyota parts! Lots of ££££

Typical! Always the way lol!

I did see them in your thread mate, made my life easier so thanks! Put some new brake line clips in to. I imagine stripping the rear suspension was a nightmare for you to? Changing all them bushes!?!?! God i feel sorry for you!

Thanks - - - Updated - - - Cheers mate, would look even better with your wheels.....

Now I know that looked easy but stripping down a subframe from a car that’s never been touched is the worst! Every bolt was rotten! Had to angle grind them all off…Maybe the NA is giving me a hard time after being so nasty about it.. Updates in a few days guys, hope your enjoying my thread!

Given a quick clean Now all the engine bay is done, interior is done (Seats/trim needs fitting but want to test all first) Car loom is done Just need to fit turbo rear subframe and brake lines (Fuel lines are the same) Stripped the rear off both: And set about removing the rear diff cooler: All removed, but its no good All the fins and brittle and the pipes are rusty so I am ordering new ones! Removed the plate from the NA Ready to bolt cooler in when the new one arrives, no rust to which is a bonus! Next up was swaping the brake lines, the fuel lines are exactly the same for reference, same diameter length and fittings.. Removing lines from the turbo Removed the NA lines and had a good check under for rust, still in great shape!! Installed the turbo lines on the shell Covers on It had brand new rear brake pipes which was a result!! The only line I didn’t install was the breather for the EVAP So now that was done I could start the rear subframe! The Turbo subframe looked ok but I wanted to be sure so I used the new subframe I have, I am going to clean and paint this at the weekend. NA and turbo subframes Diff and shafts out Rear NA shocks! Getting there! Subframe stripped ready for cleaning and painting!

Better… Stripped out the rear loom and removed the tracker/alarm and all the random wiring! Crap bits Loom swap complete! Just for reference for anyone considering making an NA a Turbo, you NEED a complete car, the only things that are the same I found so far is the door looms/front and rear wiper motor and that’s about your lot! So next up is the passenger seat, in the crash the seatbelt seems to have not worked and the passenger must have slammed into it bending it badly! I will let the pics do the talking…. NA seats: Unzip the back And press in the clips to remove the headrests Next undo the little circle wire hooks And pull!! 4 bolts around the base and that’s off One nice straight frame Next the turbo seats The twisted frame!! Old on the left… Bender! Kinked frame! Must have hurt his back… Rebuilt! Nice and straight

Thread update time! So, last time I was just starting removing the dash from the NA ready for full interior and loom swap! What a nightmare job! Anyway: Found a nice Cusco rear brace while stripping out the back! Anyway, back to the dash removal! Dash gone… Crash bar gone (A million and 1 bolts) Heater box gone! Yep you guessed it…old NA loom gone! Repeat the whole thing again on the Turbo… The turbo had an alarm and a load of gauges at some point so I removed all the aftermarket wiring, soldered and heatshrinked it back to original Some of the wires Wires removed After all the work stripping out… Start putting it all back in! Loom in Next up is the heater box, I gave it a good clean and decided while it was out to clean the matrix too as we all know what a gret job these are to do…. Removed and cleaned Shiny! Blew compressed air inside the box to clean that too All back together Crash bar and heater back in Dash back in, glad to see the back of this job Removed the gay rear tints…

No probs From my research they are good, not great for doing full bore standing starts as the friction material can become detached with the heat. The early versions also suffered with Slave cylinder issues, it replaces the standard pull type clutch and uses a push type Salve mounted onto the gearbox bell housing. The issues with the early slaves was the anodized costing coming of and making the fluid contaminated and causing the o-rings to leak. Some people had issues getting the clutch to full disengage, which was cured by using a bigger Master cylinder. My kit comes with a Tilton Master 3/4" in case i have any issues. However, many people had no issues... The other important thing is making sure the slave is bolted up with an equal gap around the input shaft so not to load the fingers incorrectly. Supposed to have very good feel with no chatter, but i will let you know when i get mine on. The issue with some of the single plate clutches are that they require massive clamping forces to stop it from slipping due to the single plate. This puts a huge load on the crank bearings and can cause crank walk. They also become on/off and hard to slip due to some not having any damping springs on the plate.

Damm! Yes, afraid so Paul, not to worry still need a fuel rail so once my 1000CC's arrive i will meassure them up and give you a call!