SMW

Had an EGT gauge fitted recently and was just wondering what sort of readings others who have one get. I was told to a reading of 850+ was the starting point for concern and that if it went up towards 950 then I'd have real problems! However I've not seen it get above about 720 even on a fairly long high speed run. Is this normal or should I be seeing higher figures?

Sounds like it could well be fuel cut to me. Has your boost gauge got a peak hold feature? If it has you should be able to see what boost level you reached. I think it depends what type of FCD you've got. Some of them just remove fuel cut altogether I think.

Machined to allow more air flow and bigger compressor wheels is the extent of my very limited understanding.

Pete Thanks for explaining the VFCC settings. I'm pretty sure what I experienced was fuel cut as the symptoms match exactly what has been described by others. From what you have said it's clear that my settings on the DSBC need looking at, I'll spend some time trying to sort this out. Cheers Steve

I posted on this a while back and have since been to Leon's and mentioned it to him. He made a small adjustment to my boost controller reducing the top setting from 70 to 67. This seemed to have done the trick at least until today when I hit fuel cut twice. The highest recorded on the DSBC was 1.38, boost gauge confirmed this. After the first instance of cut I reduced the top setting to 63 but once again experienced fuel cut soon after (at least it didn't occur until after I'd dispensed with the Merc SL500 that had been sitting on my tail for the previous 2 miles Further reduced the setting to 60 after this and took things a little easier for the rest of my journey. Drove pretty hard on the way back though but never boosted above 1.26 I have a TRL fuel cut device fitted and if I understand correctly it has an overboost protection feature that prevents the car boosting beyond 1.4 bar?? I have stage 2 hybrids and am running on Optimax so I don't want to exceed that figure, just slightly confused as to why the data from my DSBC and boost gauge doesn't indicate 1.4 bar + Is this something for me to be concerned about or should I concentrate on fine tuning the boost controller settings to prevent it happening in the future?

I started a "heated seats" thread a while back and Ian C kindly provided a link to a wiring diagram. http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?s=&threadid=4811&highlight=heated+seats It might help with your query.

This better describes what the guy at work told me. Have never been given this advice by a tyre fitter though, I would have thought they should be telling people this. Especially people with fast cars:)

Sorry if I'm digressing a bit but has anybody else been told that you need to take it steady for the first few miles after having new tyres fitted? Something to do with oil used in the manufacturing process? May well be nonsense just that somebody at work mentioned it.

Thanks eyefi Will try and get somebody to take a look today or tomorrow. Definitely only occuring when in gear. If I keep my foot on the brake it makes the sound, N or P no noise. I'm praying rather than hoping:)

My car has developed a rattling noise which only seems audible when the car is in L,2,D or R. Not in N or P. I was at Leon's recently for some mods and he did mention some oil having leaked from the gearbox however the car seemed fine on the drive back. Today though the noise has become much more evident and the car actually cut out whilst stationery at a roundabout (never done this before) Also on a couple of occasions when starting it's struggled slightly and sounded a bit rough. Whilst I realise it's impossible for anyone to diagnose the problem given the info I've provided I'd be really grateful for any suggestions as to what might be wrong. Did a search and found a few threads on "rattles" but they seemed to relate in the main to manual cars. Hoping my gearbox isn't on the way out:(

Hi AJI Had a peek at your car, looks great. What brand of tyres do have? Are the rear's 285/30 or a different profile?

I think it's more a case of running out of tread than having insufficient grip, interesting what you say about stunting the top end though.............couldn't be doing with that:) Most places don't seem keen to fit anything other than the sizes that I have, so I'll probably go with another set of the Toyo's.

Anyone else have 18" Blitz Z1 Technospeed alloys on their car? I need new rubber and and the existing set are too skinny for the wheels IMO. Wheel's are 10" rear and 9" front. Current tyres are 265/35/ZR18 rear and 235/40/ZR18 front. (Toyo Proxes T1-S) Is there a recommended tyre size for the Supra with this size of wheels? (I'm thinking along the idea of rolling radius which I think has been mentioned before on here, can't find the thread though.) Definitely need wider rubber as I've kerbed 3 of the wheels due principally because the tyres I have don't afford any protection to the rims..............ouch:(

Gaz is spot on, the HKS one makes a great sound if you lift off after sharp acceleration:) Quite easy to do this more frequently in MANU mode.

I've read before about resetting the ECU in order for it to self adjust if you use something like race fuel. Just wondering how long you'd need to run the new stuff in the car before the ECU completed this "learning" process, or can it do it pretty much instantly?

Isn't there a maintenance kit you can buy for the calipers?? I'm sure I've heard it mentioned before.

I don't think launch control works with the auto, you just want the basic adjustable setup. If you have a look at http://www.racelogic.co.uk there is a link to a list of dealers, I should think a lot of these can fit as well.

Nathan, Pete Thanks for your input on this. I have the colder HKS plugs so I'm hoping that isn't what caused the problem, although I'll certainly get them checked out if it happens again. I've hit fuel cut once before (after removing baffle from nur back box) and what occurred yesterday was pretty much the same. Had me wondering whether or not it could be attributed to MANU mode in any way but I guess not. Maybe just a glitch and I won't worry too much about it unless it happens again.

Thanks Nathan Turbos are hybrids so should be okay at higher boost. I'll try your suggestion of regular versus MANU mode tomorrow weather permitting:)

Been trying to get to grips with MANU mode recently as many have said that you get better acceleration from a standing start. Whilst I wouldn't disagree with that a strange thing happened on my way back to work at lunchtime. I seemed to hit fuel cut (judder,loss of power and several lights on the dash) Wasn't paying that much attention to speed but doubt if I exceeded 110-115. DSBC peak read 1.28 (warning is set to 1.40) I have seen 1.30 and didn't get fuel cut so I was wondering if MANU mode made any difference in this instance??

When I bought my car the guy selling it had the alarm disconnected as the vehicle had been standing for a few weeks. I was a bit concerned about this and took it to the Toyota dealer when I got it back home. The guy there said no problem leaving it for longish periods with the alarm set. Oh dear wrong...................again:)

I'm guessing that I'd have to clip something pretty hard to do real damage. It's just every time I hear that horrible metallic grinding sound it makes me feel pretty sick:) Can things get loosened by lots of the above? Actually I'm pretty sure the answer to this is yes, I've just never had a good look at how the exhaust is attached to the underside of the car.

Been to Kempton Races today and many admiring looks for my car changing to grimaces as my Nur spec struggled with the uneven ground. Car has been lowered on Eibach springs and although I never have problems with wheels rubbing on arches speed humps and stuff are a constant annoyance. Is there anything that can be done to get it up a little, for want of a better phrase?

Thanks Nathan I had an idea that it would be dependant on other factors. I've already been advised to get an EGT gauge and I'll been doing that as soon as Christmas is out of the way.

Is there a rough percentage figure by which these temperatures are reduced if you have installed a fmic?