Scooter

One part of my parts stash are these turbo's. I know that used turbos aren't so in demand these days where people don't seem to do any real miles anymore and often go new hybrids if they do go, but if anyone wants to hold them for a rainy day, or if they suspect theirs aren't great or perhaps you have a high miler and the turbo housings are likely cracked etc. I got them many years ago from James (turtlehead, one of the guys now doing Matt's nut and bolt rebuild work) so they are as verifiable a set of used turbo's as you'll find, per the link he went single at low miles? Pictures/video to follow, when I unpack them from their dry storage/bubble wrappedness! Pricing seems difficult for cars and parts these days so I'm thinking £850 (less than new hybrids but you get to keep the J spec response?) I can do a whole turbo side of parts VSV's, Ali pipes, main rubber link pipes and 1st cat etc for £350 (Came with the same set of turbo's) So £600 for the complete turbo side

Sale agreed deposit pending, mixed feelings throughout the whole process, it's the end of a long long era of having one, but I just haven't been using it for a while now and it's going to an enthusiastic private buyer.

I'd take Tayr up on his offer of a ECU. On the Supras they are under the passenger side footwell carpet and these days the ECU's can give issues (if you look at a Toyota diagnostics book/procedure the last thing after everything else has been eliminated, on nearly all issues, is "replace the ECU" ) As other mechanics have had a go, then they've 'likely' checked the regular stuff fuel/ignition, distributor, pump etc etc so a duff ECU is a possibility.

toyota codes https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=3040080559355374 Fuel terminal info

Does it start everytime for a short time, or just once then won't start? You can try starting it without the aux belt on (only for a minute or so) You could try bridging the terminals in the diagnostics port, the ones that run the fuel pump, then you could try it (again only for long enough to test if that's made a difference) If you bridge the right terminals you'll here the fuel moving when turning on the ignition. These are things that might rule things in/out. Chris Wilson on here would say the mechanics need to be more old school and have scopes etc to tell precisely what's going on. Have you done the procedure to get any engine codes?

Sorry, near to Guildford Surrey, could get them to Woking also.

A set of staggered 8 and 9" 16's, straight and true but just been sat for years. Tyres obviously shot, but I'm 99% certain I have 4 (possibly more) pre facelift centre caps and definitely a set of stock wheel nuts.

I'm near Guildford in Surrey

Thanks, I thought it was all reasonable, very solid and as you say I think fairly easily tidied up. Certainly no basket case! or sea of underseal leaving you guessing what is underneath.

x2 Steel front cross members that are known to rust out in extreme cases, rear subframe half wiped clean (lost daylight and getting cold this afternoon) and rear lines

Passenger side sill has damage at both the front and back, back folded over significantly, although rust hasn't gained to much of a hold.

Driver sill minimal damage along the full length

Oil change info.

Russ, let me know when it's back. We can look at codes and the condition of the autobox fluid etc. As you are so close I'm happy to pop over if you'd like. We can at least assess the fluid that's in the box, I'm not sure David P is active on the forum anymore, but there are things we can look at to try and see if the box is just ill and so saveable rather than dead dead!

Gearbox fluid changed at all in the period of ownership? there is a filter in the gearbox that can be changed and that and new fluid could possibly save the box. If it's not had any fluid over the years perhaps a used box would be the best option as it may be beyond economical repair (you could post a wanted ad up and see what's offered?)

Russ, I'm local to you in the GU8 area. What would be helpful is if you can get us some diagnostic codes. This is straight forward, you'll need a plain metal paper clip. In the engine bay there will be a rectangular diagnostics port (or you can use the one under the drivers side dash), if you open the lid it should show you the locations of terminals, bridgedTE1 and E1 with your paper clip, push down into the terminal holes. In the car turn the key to on without starting and the engine light will flash codes, I think the autobox codes might flash a different dash light so look out for that too. Watcht the link below and see how you get on. https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=3040080559355374 I can always pop round to help, I do have an original diagnostics machine that I'd be keen to plug in if you don't feel confident after watching the above.

Pic of the rear of the airbox. It's a cone filter inside the stock box, the rear of the box is cut through to make it fit. Essentially done to try and be a better version of those metal pieces that try to block off the engines hot air from the intake.

Bad bumper bits

excuse the upside down photos of the hatch hinges

Rear arches

Some more pics - excuse the carpet, I lacked access to a hoover today!

I like to think it's a fair price, I see a lot that need some cosmetic work and they are generally much higher mileage, I know many don't trust mileages but I know yours was genuine, and then you had it and Martin after so as good a guarantee as you can get? So with tidying it'd be worth more, so any spend the new owner will likely recoup in carrying value?