rpslaughter1982

no i haven't, i wish i could try now but it's too late, upset the neighbours with the straight through exhaust I'll have a go tomorrow and post up the result thanks for the idea!!

the unit comes with a total of 8 leads. 1 power (no visible fuse) 1 earth and 6 yellow ignition leads. the 6 yellow leads are connected to the ignitor as per the manual, the earth to an earthing point and the power lead is hooked up as described earlier. I have no clue why it has efected my idle so greatly

i'll just give a little more info: I first fitted the the DLI as per the HKS instructions which indicated to tap the power wire into the black orange wire on the 4 block connector of the ignitor. The car started fine like this but as soon as you touched the throttle the engine tried to cut out. I then wired the power wire to the black orange wire after the noise reducer as per - http://www.97supraturbo.com/Tech.html - after doing this the car idled at 3k rpm. I would be really grateful if someone with a jap spec non vvti running a HKS dli could tell me how theirs is wired up. I need to know if my dli is faulty or if my wiring is faulty or whether it is another problem, many thanks

Hi, I have fitted an HKS DLI to my single supe (AEM ecu). After fitting it it idles at 3000rpm! does anyone have any experience of fitting a dli to an AEM supra or know the reason why I am experiencing this idle issue?

I'm after the odometer/trip/check light unit and front wheel arches

Looking for interest in my old stock J-spec twin turbos. I have recently changed to a single after the twins started leaking oil. The blades of the turbos are fully intact however they will need new oil seals/gaskets. I think they would be good for a project as I know the parts aren't expensive and hybrids can sell around the 700 mark. I don't know how much they are worth in their current state so if anyone wants to make an offer I will consider it. If no one offers a reasonable amount I'll fix them up myself and then sell them. I'll post up pics as soon as I find my camera. Any questions please let me know

Finally get my turbo working fine and my map looking good and another problem rears it's ugly head, a hefty oil leak. Looking underneath I believe it's coming from the oil pump area. Reading the service manual it says it's an engine out job to fix, please say it isn't so!!!! I would be grateful for any help on this matter and if anyone has had similar problems. When I upgraded to the single turbo I used a thinner oil as per the oil FAQ on this site. If this is an easily identified problem could any of the workshops/traders give me an idea on much it will cost to fix, I have run out of energy and time to start on another area of the car[sAD][/sAD]

Thanks, I like to have the settings as a guide, last thing I would want to do is strip a thread and I sometimes miss the line between rft and permanent damage!

does any one have the torque settings for the inlet plenum to the block? many thanks

thank you

What is the black cylinder used for and is it needed on a single? The two air lines attached to it now go into nothing. Also, attached to the other side of the mounting bracket is a sensor. this sensor has one line going to the inlet chamber and the other one now not attached, any ideas? Many thanks

thanks for your help all, I'd best get measuring!

I've been looking around at avaialbe o-rings, they all seem to be in the british standard sizes (BSP). What o-rings have people used on their aeromotive FPR's? There are a number of similar sized BS sizes but i don't know how exact the o-ring sizes need to be. Am I being too fussy?

After reading Chris Wilson's thread on o-ring failure I decided to change all mine!!! I am having real trouble finding a place that sells Viton O-rings, can any one help. I really wanted to get them before the weekend. I need 3 viton o-rings for my aeromotive FPR and 1 for my fuel rail. They're all to go over an AN-06 nut. I have tried thinkauto (don't sell them) and polymax.co.uk (don't know AN sizes, just BSP) with no luck. I have found a site that sells BUNA-N seals but I don't know if these are good for fueling. Any help would be greatly appreciated, especially if some one has some that I can buy off them!

I know you know what your talking about Ian and I can't say that I can explain the other behaviour. My post was from my experience, my base map was crap and well off what it should be. Just thought it may be worth a try again, its a half hour job to change the plugs, longer for the injectors, and after going through similar start up problems it was the plugs that fixed mine. I hope Homer gets it fixed soon, whatever the solution, there's nothing more frustrating than a poorly supra!

Homer, I have had a very similar problem to you with my recent single upgrade. The first time I started it up it ran fine, but after about the fourth start up it wouldn't idle, i had backfires, then it wouldn't start at all. I have gone through a lot of posts looking for the solution and looking over your thread i think it is worth getting new spark plugs again. When you changed the plugs before it started and again and then over a short amount of time stopped working. On my car this was due to overfueling, it stopped the plugs working within 4 starts!!!! I took them out dried/cleaned them and put them back in but still no joy. Then I read that you cannot clean iridium plugs! I put my old plugs back in and it started first time. I know you dont think it is the plugs now but I really think it's worth trying new ones again, but don't run the car until it is mapped. Just see if it starts then wait till you can sort out the overfuelling. I now have a better map for my car (not overfuelling) and the problem has gone. Over fuelling can kill iridium plugs in a matter of hours! Good luck Rich

I didn't know that! I have an aeromotive FPR and set it by taking off the vacum and setting it with the car running on a fuel pressure guage. Any chance someone could give me a 'how to' on setting it correctly?

yup. what fuel pressure to people run at idle?

I have re-installed the map but that doesn't seem to have helped. Does anyone else have a similar map I could have a look at to compare? Im running 650cc Sard injectors, walbro fuel pump, fmic. Anything similar would be helpful

I've recently put together a single build for my supe. I'm running a PHR stage 1 turbo and an AEM ecu. a couple of weeks ago I got the car started and went for a drive. It was running rich (around 10.5) but i didn't drive it for long and then parked it back up. I started it again about a week later to adjust the fpr. It didn't start so easy this time and was very lumpy. I only ran it for a couple of minutes and turned it off. I tried to start it yesterday and it wouldn't start at all. The engine turned over without a hint of any cylinder firing and then a massive backfire. Ive taken all the plugs out and they were very wet. I did a compression test and all seems ok (170psi). Spun the engine with no plugs in to push out excess fuel and then left it overnight. Today, plugs back in and the engine sounds like it is just about to start but then dies and backfires. Any takers? I don't think its bore wash due to the compression test and it's not making any weird noises. I don't know if I have a problem with my idle control valve? Could anyone tell me exactly how this works? All help is appreciated, I am an amature so feel free to correct any wrong assumtions or details I have given!

Thanks for the info wez

I found this thread on the problem, page 3. Wez and Whifbitz Paul were talking about it but with no conclusion. Paul / Wez any help?????

Perhaps thats what i meant, does the cat light have wavy lines above a box shape?

I've tried searching for this but couldn't see anything on it, I've recently put the Aem into my supe and the engine warning light and warning triangle stay on constant + the trac slip light flashes constantly. Is this normal? How do I turn them off? Many thanks