and1c

Unless you are using an airtool you will need to lock the pulley, in order to remove the bolt, and remove the pulley.... in order to check the crank!

A 1/2" breaker bar bends like a banana when you put some really serious torque on it (like 300nm +!)...especially with a scaffold pole over it if its 3/4" you will be fine. I forgot to mention but have you got the locking tool? There is always the starter motor if you lock the bar off correctly. But Im not keen on that sort of method!

You just need a scaffold bar, and a beefy breaker bar to fit it over to get it off but you will indeed need a beast of a torque wrench to get it off! Try searching ebay for 'norbar' torque wrenches they are reasonably priced and the big boys can do huge torques! Its what mine is and it does up to 500ftlbs iirc (if I could get that much on it which is dubious)

324 NM or 239 Ft Lbs

Erm... What car is it for? Supra NA or TT?

Interesting..

Not wanting to be a scare mongerer But he also needs to investigate the cause of the damper coming loose... If it is due to not being torqued correctly during a replacement for example, and there is no damage to the crank (unlikely), all tolerances are ok...(end play for example) It may be ok. But if a failing thrust bearing has caused the damper wobble, then a new damper will not fix it IMHO

Not good

Thanks Nic Thanks Scooter - that is very helpful

Bump... Can no one help with these?

Oops Sorry Should have explained better. Its an engine only Im seeking the bolts for (to attach to an engine stand as opposed to a gearbox) Its a Jspec TT 2JZ GTE engine, 93 or 94 YOM Was off an auto car Thanks

ok guys. I badly need the part numbers please for the bolts for a 2jz gte bellhousing. Are they all the same thread and pitch? Also, can anyone recommend any good UK parts suppliers who may have them in stock? (Im going to need a load of bits soon so it would be great to find a good supplier) Thanks

Hot salty mouth wash is better even than cold. Warm kettle, allow to cool, and then use that water. Works wonders with toothache.

It depends on the reasons that it came loose (if indeed it is lose!!), and also what damage has been done by driving around on it - have you been able to check yet? it should be pretty obvious, if you grab hold of the damper and see if there is any play, and also watch it when the engine runs and see if it wobbles.. in all likelihood if it is the harmonic damper/balancer, and the woodruff keyway is shot, it could point to a thrust bearing issue iirc that due to excessive vibrations has caused it to come loose..amongst other possibilities of course. but, no,if its that, this far down the line, a new pulley wont fix it IMO. It will be new crank and engine rebuild time. Or a new engine Im afraid to say. But still, you havent checked it yet by the sound of it?? so nothing is certain until the problem is identified

Wow! These numbers some of you guys are living on each month (after outgoings) are crazy! Im not sure how you manage to run a Supra on it put it that way! hats off to you I feel sorry for folks with a hefty variable rate mortgage... not good news with the current economy Im just glad for a change of being that bit older than some (32) and having managed to buy a nice house quite a few years ago when properties were much more sensibly priced

Ouch! Did he go with a new/used engine Chris or did you rebuild his current one with a new crank and a bottom end rebuild?

lol at small bongo player Im not aware of Toyota tech but I have met the guys at Toyota GT in Hampshire and can heartily recommend them.. Youve had the noise for a few months?? I think doing the tests suggested in the first instance is a good idea. Then post back your findings...or alternatively take it to Toyota GT asap!

To be honest Im struggling to make much out at all from that video Can you outline the history of the noise? eg/ when did it start how did it start (eg/ where you revving/driving hard etc) Does the noise rise in line with revs? eg/ the noise starts at idle and by 3krpm it has gone, for example Have you got a local forum member who knows their Supes? maybe a friendly forum member could pop over and take a look for you?

He meant aux belt tensioner... The 'harmonic balancer' *or 'crank pulley' as some prefer* is at the bottom of the engine as you look at it from the front... The aux belt runs around it... a good visual inspection should tell you if its in trouble or not. If that looks in good order, then as above, you could remove the aux belt and start the engine and see if the noise has gone (dont run it for too long or you will flatten the battery) If the noise is still there and seems to be coming from the timing belt cover... You may need to replace the cambelt auto tensioner assembly. the cam belt tensioner is hydraulic and cannot be tightened further but iirc the idler gear could be the culprit. Either way, new cambelt and tensioner assembly and also new drivebelt and drivebelt tensioner...not a cheap set of parts but well worth doing both at the same time because 'if' one has failed, the other may not be far behind

I only got a fiver too mate and mine is 300 plus 'Chips' was the coupon code. But its expired now I think!

Wow. That camera video is shocking!! Also, check the harmonic balancer isnt broken or loose. Dont drive it of course until this is resolved...

What a nitemare mate Sorry to see this.. I bet the scum bag was p*ssed up and possibly not insured as well.. It might be an idea if you go up the road a way and see if theres any petrol stations or anywhere else that has cctv? If you've got the time of the incident then you may get lucky and be able to see the van on video. Just to agree with you as well....the police are completely useless for anything but 'serious' crimes...and even then they are still sometimes incompetent!!

Its not the torque value thats at issue...its the clamping load for the same amount of torque when using hardened studs.... Will be interesting to see if it does have any 'squish' effect...as I may use them myself if not

I agree! not a very good answer by ARP.. But Im 99.99% sure that the block will need the Mains align honing if ARP studs are to be used.... And the block should of course be align honed with the new ARPs torqued correctly. Hardened studs have a much higher clamping load than torque to yield bolts do...so to keep the correct crush on the bearings they have to be align honed in situ. I say risking because as Chris said in his earlier post, it is an expensive and (if the shop isnt very competent) 'risky' machining process. For my engine build Im not going to bother with this and just use new Toyota torque to yield fasteners.... They handle more power than most of us are going to make anyway so it seems pointless 'risking' an align hone for the sake of ARPs IMHO.

No Problemo mate