Mcgoo

Well I fitted an EBC and went back for another run. As you can see it was a VERY hot day so I'm pleased with the result. It peaked at 1.13bar and settled around 1.1bar. 374.9 FWHP 307 RWHP 344.3 lbf.ft Torque Graph below.

I was stopped in Scotland once for a 'routine check' and the policeman checked all documentation was in order. He checked that it was insured at the same address it was registered and he checked that I had declared the mods! (obvious ones like wheels, exhaust, induction, BOV and gauges).

Welcome to the club. Your brother was right, you should have a good read of all the guides on here and ask questions if you can't find the answers. It can save a lot of hassle/ money if you research what your buying. That way you won't get sold a TT that turns out to be an NA.

I used to be stationed at Marham when I was in the RAF, met the missus (local girl) and been here since. I'm surprised you know of it, wrong side of the county for you isn't it?

I saw this today in the police station car park. Never seen another one in Downham Market before today.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=219416

Hi Alex, thanks for the input. I'm on a stock FPR. The car was running lean before I changed the filter. That was part of the reason why I changed it. I put the pump in about 3-4 years ago. I have got the original j-spec one in the garage, I could try that. Today I've looked at the FP ECU and there is a relay attached to it. It appears that the 12v mod has been carried out, so could this have worn my pump out? It buzzes away merrily still. Are the FPRs prone to failure? How can I check? Are these AFRs likely to cause damage as they are?

Hi Chris, I did wonder about that, as when I turned the ignition on the gauge done its calibration sweep and settled at 15ish. So yesterday I took the sensor out of the exhaust and turned the ignition on and of a few times to let it calibrate in air and it went full scale lean (which I assume is right as there is no fuel in air). On the next run the readings were the same. If it was faulty would it not be out across the whole range? Would the Bosch LSU 4.0 sensors mate on the existing AEM UEGO wiring? How much are they? I may change it just to eliminate it.

If your planning on going out most nights to pubs, clubs etc then really isn't it a waist of money going all inclusive? Maybe half board would better suit?

Pm'ed Age? mileage? OEM UK ones?

Welcome.

Would the stock ECU with knock sensors etc be able to deal with any det if there was any in the mid to high 12's at high boost and RPM? If it could that would be nice because it's going like a rocket at the moment! I think what's worrying me is the fact that over time this has happened. It used to run rich as expected over 1.0bar, so I'm thinking something is wrong. 4 year old Walbro maybe? I was thinking of temporarily doing the 12v mod to eliminate the Fuel Pump ECU. stock FPR ? Faulty Afr sensor? although the readings seem right at lower boost/revs?

Really? I've been doing a fair bit of reading on here and I thought the general consensus was mid 11's was best?

Since getting my boost issues sorted, I've had some spirited drives and notice that the car is running lean @ WOT. This is what I'm seeing on my AFR guage; Warm idle and gentle cruising = 14.5 to 15.3 3rd and 4th gear pulls WOT ; From 2k rpm to 3.5k @0.7 bar = 12.5 - 13.8 Transition 3.5k to 4k rpm = 14.3 4k rpm to 6k rpm @1.0 bar (EBC off) = 11.3 - 12.1! 4k rpm to 6k rpm @1.2 bar (EBC on) = 11.7 - 12.9!! EGT's don't go above 900 deg C. The car always used to run rich at what at 10.5 - 10.8 I have just replaced the fuel filter as it hadn't been done for a while and it was dirty but it has made little difference. I've got STP injector cleaner in the tank now to see if that helps. What checks can I do at home to help identify the problem? At these levels am I right in thinking I may suffer from det even on a stock ECU? Spec; Guages: SARD BOOST GUAGE, AEM WIDE BAND AFR GAUGE BLITZ EGT GAUGE Turbocharger & Induction: Blitz Dual SBC Spec R EBC APEXI INDUCTION TRUST 4 ROW SMIC HKS SSQV DUMP VALVE Fuel, Tuning & ECU: Stock ECU DENSO IK22 WALBRO 342 fuel pump FUEL CUT DEFENDER, Exhaust: Whifbitz double De-cat BLITZ NUR SPEC

I've probably driven 50 or 60 miles on a-roads since, I wouldn't say it's quite as vocal as it was before but it's somewhere close.

Drove a few miles in the last couple of days and slowly the car has began to feel and sound like it was before, which I thought was strange. It then dawned on me that I didn't reset the ECU after carrying out the work!! DOH!! So I suppose It's taken awhile to adjust itself? I really didn't think it was that essential. Lesson learnt

Welcome.

Autoglym ultra deep shine or zymol depends what mood I'm in. Couple of old ones; Couple of new ones;

I know the noise is not to everyone's taste. I haven't played with the adjustment on the BOV yet as it was fine until fitting the vsv. I can't see why it would make any difference when I unplug the vsv? Would the boost characteristics change just with the ECU seeing the vsv connected?

Bit of a strange one this. (you don't have to read it all, just down to the red bit) After replacing a faulty IACV VSV my BOV (HKS SSQV) has gone quiet, especially when on the first turbo, also tubby 1 seems slightly less responsive. It used to be the case that turbo1 would happily spin away with very little throttle input and feathering it would give a lovely little 'chatter' and 'woosh' from the BOV. Since replacing the vsv it only gives a 'chirp' at best. Also it seems to take more throttle input to get turbo1 boosting although it does still boost fully at 0.7bar.Its not massively different but enough for me to notice when driving round town. Turbo2 is behaving as expected coming online at 4k and giving 1 bar (as per restrictor ring). The strange thing is, if I unplug (electrically) the IACV VSV then tubby1 seems more responsive again and the BOV makes all the right noises. I've been reading a lot of info on here and on max-boost.co.uk and the way I see it the IACV vsv shouldn't really effect tubby1 a great deal. At least not until the transition point anyway. So is it just the case that I got used to how it drove and sounded with a knackered IACV vsv and now all is as it should be, or is something a miss? If all is ok can I just adjust the BOV screw to give me the chatter noises back again as I have the older type SSQV? Thanks for reading. A bit of history on the initial boost issue for those that are interested enough to read it. While investigating a general lack of boost that had tailed of over time, I discovered that the VSV controlling the IACV was knackered (open circuit). This was a surprise to me as the 2nd turbo still appeared to be coming on-line when it was supposed to. The car felt like it was doing all the right things ie 0.6 to 0.7 bar up to 3500rpm then a dip followed by a rush at 4k to around 0.8 to 0.9bar. I used to get around 1bar during the colder months so initially put it down to the warmer weather. With this in mind I got a Blitz dual SBC spec r to raise it to higher levels when I wanted it. After fitting it I realised that I had a problem when max boost was 1 bar despite the ratio being turned up. My first thought was a boost leak so I checked the pipe work and replaced a couple of suspect hoses. No change. Next I tried TTC (5min mod) and it went like a rocket! Boost was now controllable on the EBC and very strong. This led me to checking the VSV's and discovering the faulty IACV vsv and replacing it. The car now feels fantastic and pulls very strong, its just the quiet BOV and the slightly slower to react turbo thats concerning me so back to the top................

Welcome to the club.

Have a look at Heckler's site. He shows you how to fix the dry joints if you have them or you can change to LEDs. http://www.internetwork.org.uk/supra.htm

So they are. Got them from here; http://www.torquestats.com/index.php?car_id=531 Bit confusing as it says 3.5 in the title but Displacement 2979 cc. I'm not a BMW fan but I must admit when I see a Z4 on the road they're not half bad and probably lovely to drive. I'm sure you'll have fun.